Making a Tardis

Video HERE

This project has been on my mind for some time, but it has taken a new Doctor to get me to actually try and make it. I haven't made any proper plans, I was winging it based on a simple idea of proportion, but I intend to re-visit this design next year and I will draw up professional plans for it then. And include a full write-up, with pictures then.

The measurements that are most important are the basic ratio of the Tardis itself, which is 2:1:1, so I decided on 30cm high, so the square base if 15x15cm. This is great if you're using lolly sticks for the trim because they justabout fit.

Secret Santa 2018 - Juggling Balls

Video HERE

Yes, my intention was to upload the making of my Advent Houses, but the PC gremlin has stolen it from me - I still have the disc on which it's saved, but there is no way I know of to recover the three videos contained therein... any tech knowhow would be appreciated...

Anyway, this year I signed up for the You Tube Secret Santa, and then couldn't decide what to make...

One of my New Year's Resolutions for next year is to learn to juggle (Odd, but it makes sense to me) and for that I have taken a few of my patchwork ornament balls (another video that is MIA) and filled them with lentils rather than stuffing fibre to give the right amount of weight. A challenge shared is a challenge ...well, shared as my giftee is in the US, but I like the idea of sharing this skill (or of making someone else also suffer through the frustration) so I decided to make another set of balls.

This template gives you three options, depending on the amount of time you want to spend sewing, and the relative size of your fabric scraps. The triangle needs to be an equilateral one - equal sides with all angles at 60, or things won't fit together neatly - you could go for a football-style of patchwork, but I will leave that much geometry to you.

You Will Need:
Your chosen template shape in sturdy card
Scrap Paper
Pencil
Scissors
Fabric Scraps (Or fat quarters)
Contrasting Thread*
Pins and Needles
Thin Ribbon**
Stuffing***

*My fabrics were all Christmas shades of red and green so I chose a white thread. If you want your stitching to be less visible then you will need to match the colours, and probably sew the pieces together from the inside.
**When I make these as hanging ornaments I always sew in a small loop of ribbon to hang from, and I did that here for ease of packaging so that I could tie them together - with a pretty ribbon - and keep my lentil-filled ones from the internationally safe set.
***The stuffing material is up to you. As I said, mine are filled with lentils, you could use rice or other small grains. For balls that are likely to go any distance - ie. in the post - something non-biological is wisest, beads, gravel or plastic pellets are probably best. You could send them unstuffed, but that would just spoil the whole thing!

Method:

1. Draw round your template onto the paper and cut out the pieces - depending on which shape you use there is a considerable difference in the amount of sewing you will need to do, so take this and your own level of patience into account before you decide which to choose. You can make as many as you wish, I hope to get to juggling 3 balls by the end of next year, but I made 4 in case I excel.
2. Pin the paper pieces to your fabric and trim the excess to a sensible margin (1cm) before folding the sides around the paper and pinning into place.*
3. Align 2 patches with paper-sides touching (ie. good-side out), making sure that the edges are precicely aligned, and sew together using a crossed stitch of about 2mm (roughly the same width as the thickness of the fabric to make an even cross pattern). Add another piece and continue to build up the shape**
4. Once each piece is completely sewn around pull out the paper, it shouldn't be stuck firm. You will end up with the last two pieces on the inside, but they are easily pulled out before stuffing.
5. Fill with your chosen stuffing material until firmly filled, but not packed tight, then sew the opening closed.

*If you want you can fiddle with the corners, but I find that they settle themselves pretty much as you start sewing the sides together. If you have a limited number of pins available you can either make up and combine a few patches at a time or run a tacking stitch around the shape to hold things together and free up your pins.
**Triangles - Sew together two sets of 5 into pentagons, then the rest into an alternating up/down loop ( /\/\/\/\/\/ ) before adding the top and bottom
Diamonds - Sew together two sets of 5 into pentacle stars, but leave one space unsewn in one star (I used a neon thread to tack the fabric flat and free up the pins, which also meant that there were no sharp points remaining once the equator was sewn) Sew around the equator, bringing the edges together as you go rather than pinning first to avoid unnecessary finger-stabbing.
Lozenge - I prefer to start at one end and sew down and back all the way around, leaving an opening in one of the flat sides rather than towards the points so that there is less fabric to deal with when closing up.

Each of the Monthly Reports on my You Tube channel will feature a quick segment on my juggling progress, If you would like to join me you are welcome to follow along as I fight my innate clumsiness and frustration and -hopefully- master at least 3 balls by this time next year!

Making and Using Paint Skins

Video HERE

This is a great way to find a use for leftover paint - and a great way of building colour and interest.

This is mostly about preparation, and the choice of paint you use. Acrylic paint will swirl and spread into a layer and dry into a usable skin without much added effort, whereas waterbased paints won't unless you blend them with PVA glue (see below)

You will need:
Leftover paint
Plastic lids (The ones from stackable snacks are ideal, smooth, not textured work best)*
Glue spreader or scrap card
Time

*Over the years I have collected dozens of these lids, which means I can always have clean ones ready for use as mini paletts whilst others are drying.

Method:

1. When you have finished your painting project use a spreader or piece of card to spread and swirl the paint into a fairly uniform layer. If you don't have a lot of paint on the palette you should ideally scrape some off another lid, or add a splodge of fresh colour. I would suggest aiming for 1-2mm thickness.
2. Place the palette somewhere safe - ie. where it will not be knocked over or stepped on, until COMPLETELY DRY. This can take over a week, depending on thickness and ambient temperature.
3. Flex the plastic - if the paint does not release around the edges then it is not dry, so leave it for another day - then peel off the 'skin', it should come off cleanly in one piece. Leave bottom-side up for a couple of hours at least before cutting. I tend to peel and keep the skins as they dry, although I usually trim off the outside edges as they are often thicker and too chunky to use.
4. When you have gathered enough skins (kept flat in a box as they dry) decide on your pattern and cut the skins into mosaic-style pieces.

To Use:

1. Prepare the surface with sanding, and raise the grain with water or white spirit to get a good finish, as you won't be able to do it once the tiles are on.
2. Paint a base coat, then sand back until smooth.*
3. Spread on a thick layer of acrylic paint and press the tiles into the surface so that the paint squishes up evenly around each one.
4. Work in stages, allowing each side to dry COMPLETELY before moving on.
5. With acrylic paint you won't need to add a lot of finish, I usually go for a coat of spray varnish if it's really necessary. Acrylic paint has a tendency to be a little gluey for quite a while, so I'd allow at least a week to dry.

*If the design is very dense, or the actual surface wood will never be visible then I often don't bother. The choice depends on your design, but it is good practice.

Water-based Paints - Gouache, Poster Paint or Watercolour

These can't be spread and dried like acrylics, because they will dry brittle and just crumble into a mess when you try to peel them, however... tip a layer of PVA onto a lid and blend the paint in sections before swirling to create a marbled colour, or keep to a single colour to make large and almost transparent 'skins'. Once dried these can be peeled and cut the same way, and even used to build up mosaic pictures on windows without needing glue (as long as you don't have a problem with condensation). PVA-based skins can be stuck with PVA or paint.

Slow-Cooker Beef Rendang

Video HERE

I love a good curry, but I've found it difficult to make a good one in the slow-cooker. Long and slow cooking is great for those tougher, cheaper cuts of meat, but it doesn't do much for the spices so many recipes call for a sambal, or spiced oil to drizzle on top, which adds a harsh heat, rather than helping the overall flavour and kinda negates the point of a slow-cooker recipe. This does take a whole day, but only requires 10 minutes of actual hands-on time.

This is a really rich, dark curry that doesn't lose it's flavour even over a 12-hour cook. If you have the time I would suggest making it a day or so ahead of time, chill it in the fridge then reheat to serve. Giving the spices time to develop only adds more richness - some coconut oil might rise to the top, but don't be tempted to skim it off, just stir through and heat.

Ingredients: SERVES 4
2 Onions, diced
3 cloves Garlic, chopped
1 stalk Lemongrass, bruised and chopped
2 Red Chillis, chopped*
2tbsp Brown Sugar (or palm sugar)
1tsp Tamarind Syrup
1" Root Ginger, grated (or 1/2 tsp ground)
1tsp Coriander Seeds
1tsp Cumin Seeds
1/2 tsp Ground Cloves
1/2 tsp Ground Mace
1tsp Oil
500g Stewing Steak, cubed
1tbsp Soy Sauce
1tbsp Thai Fish Sauce (or 2 anchovies)
400g can Coconut Milk
200ml Water-ish
Seasoning

*You can use 2 dried chillis, keep them whole and don't blend into the paste. Just add them to the crock instead.

Method:

1.  First make a paste by blending the onion, garlic, lemongrass, chilli, sugar, tamarind, ginger, spices and oil.
2. Massage the paste into the meat, cover and marinate overnight in the fridge.
3. Transfer the meat and marinade into the crock, drizzle over the soy and fish sauce and stir to coat.
4. Pour over the coconut milk and enough water to just cover the meat, then stir to combine.
5. Cook on HIGH for 10-12 hours.
6. Don't panic! it will look curdled and wrong before it comes together.
7. If you have the time, transfer to a container to cool and chill overnight before serving, if not then serve over steamed rice or with flatbreads for scooping.

 This does not make a particularly large batch, but it is rich enough without adding extra flavours. I find it useful to make a double - or even triple - batch, cooking for around 14 hours. Portioned into freezer pots with a scoop of rice make great microwaveable meals. Rich, spiced comfort in about 8 minutes!

Christmas Cryptex

Video HERE

I have seen a number of turned cryptex videos, and I used to think that it would not be possible to make one without a lathe... looks like I was wrong!

You will need: (Particular sizes are dependent on your design, this is the general list)
Veneer and/or Card
A Mandril*
Strong Glue
EPA Foam
Plastic sheets (I used document wallets split into two)
Pallet Wood
Scroll saw with blades
Black sugar paper
Printed papers
Ribbon
Pyrography tool
Green paint or stain
Varnish
Coloured tacks, diamontes etc.
Laminated pages**
Copper wire

*Whatever you use to roll your central core - this will effect the final dimensions and limitations of your puzzle. I used a hairspray can, Ideally you want something with straight sides.
**My choice of lubricating washers is EPA foam topped with a layer of laminated paper. If you have the tools to get a consistent finish on your wood then you may not need them.

Method:

1. Wrap your mandril with plastic to keep things from sticking. Glue and roll a couple of layers of veneer and/or card around the mandril - secure in place with thread or tape. Wrap another layer of plastic and then a single layer of EPA foam to create separation before wrapping with another layer of veneer and/or card. Repeat until you have 3 layers of veneer. Leave to dry for at least 1 hour before removing from the mandril, but keep the layers together until completly dry.
2. Measure the diameter of your largest cylender, this will be the minimum internal measurement that each of your tumblers needs to have. The smallest diameter should be no less than 15mm wider than the inner ring. Each tumbler MUST have a key slot.
3. Each of the tumblers should be slightly larger than the one before to create a tree-like shape. The bottom two should be around 3x the diameter of the top tumbler. If you're adding a couple of gift layers then they can be a little smaller.
4. From the top tumbler up you can draw out gradually decreasing parts to create the top.
5. I chose to cut each layer of branches on a gradually tightening angle, from 25 degrees to 45 - although I should probably have started with 45 at the bottom rather than the top. If I had the patience I would have carved the branches, instead I burned in some texture with a pyrography tool before painting on a wash of colour to create raised grain texture.
6. The two bottom tumblers are stacks of gifts, each one wrapped with printed paper and a ribbon. The base is wrapped in sugar paper to create a solid colour base. Apply finish as you like.
7. Apply your tacks and decorations, being sure to align the right ones with the key notches.
8. Once you're happy with your tumblers cut the largest tube up half-way, then glue it to the base, slide the tumblers on top - with whatever washers you're using - and mark the tube on the ring just above the top tumbler, then remove them. Complete the cut of the slot, then trim it to size.
9. Carefully glue the tube to the top ring, fixing all the tumblers in place.
10. Glue together the lid branches, and glue the middle-sized tube to the base, then trim to fit.
11. Trim the smallest tube to just below the outer rim and glue into place
12. Bend the wire into a tooth and stick into place inside the middle tube.

I'm not sure if my description has done this justice...

Making Plant Pots (My herbicidal tendencies)

Video HERE

Anyone who has followed me on Fb for a while will recognize this aloe as the unfortunate little plant that I won in a raffle some 8 years ago that has survived my -limited- care and actually done quite well, despite being ignored for months on end...

This project didn't begin as a pot-making idea, but rather an exercise in scroll saw cutting. I had actually run out of my preferred thin blades and was limited to using the pin-fitting ones from the tin and I was looking to test the limitations of these - as they actually fit my machine without adapters. Off-camera I tested the cuts on gradually tighter curves and decided that this arc was about the best that I could cut whilst maintaining the line. From this point I started planning a project to use these blades and pallet wood.

I didn't really have a plan in mind, so I cut a number of strips with curves on one side and straight lines on the other, then complicated the idea by adjusting that idea for a hexagonal shape with graduated levels.

Given the opportunity to re-try these pieces I would have to adjust the width of the strips themselves, as there is a gap at the bottom of each curve, which means that water runs out, rather than through the soil - although in this case it does reduce the chances of over-watering.

As of Now - about 4 months after re-potting - Nigel is doing rather well on the windowsill in the bathroom, I give him a splash of water when I remember, but he is also able to gather moisture from the air. Boris is back on my windowsill, probably drier than is healthy, but looking OK generally. Once a month I place the pot in a shallow bowl of water, which might cause issues with the glue later on, but hasn't been a problem yet. I also managed to take two small cuttings as well, but only one of those has survived - he/she will be transferred to the other pot next year, when I have decided on a name... probably around March, when all things will be decided.

Making Clocks

Video HERE

Although I didn't technically 'make' the clocks, I certainly put in quite a lot of work. These images really reflect my old style of art, bold and iconic animal images. Starting with an inexpensive box canvas and a cheap clock movement you too can create a bold image to satisfy your timekeeping needs...

You will need:
A Box Canvas (around 8x8" 20x20cm*)
A Clock Movement
An old book or other paper base
Thin PVA glue
Image of your choice
Tracing Paper
Pencil
Acrylic Paint
Sponge
Brushes
Ballpoint pen**
Varnish
PVC fabric
Double-Sided Tape
Stapler

*Square clocks look better with most images, although you might go for the lovebird look with a slanted frame if you like.
**Ideally a black pen, you can use permanent marker, but I find that you can lose the definition of the line when using a spray varnish, and sometimes wash out the ink with a water-based one. I would suggest that you do a quick test before starting.

Method:

1. Tear your paper into small squares and glue a layer of straight pieces in a grid. Allow to dry a bit, then add a second layer on the diagonal.* Dry completely.
2. Scale your image to fit nicely on the canvas, then trace the image onto tracing paper and transfer to the canvas. Mark where your clock centre will be. Draw over the outline and key details with a pen.
3. Sponge on a light layer of paint, blending and pushing into the paper to help create texture. Try and keep the density of colour consistent across the whole thing - within reason, there needs to be some variation otherwise it looks boring. Dry completely.
4. Paint the base coat colours of your image inside the faint outline you can see through the background. Dry completely.
5. If required, pick out the main lines and details before continuing to paint, building up colour and texture as you go. Once you're satisfied allow to dry completely.**
6. Using your choice of pen pick out the details in your image. You can either use the pen just to delineate shadows and contrast - like the lovebirds - or as the main detail outline - like the owl. If using a ballpoint pen I would suggest leaving this to dry overnight.
7. Apply a layer or two of finish.
8. Carefully cut through the canvas for the clock movement, then glue it into place.
9. Wrap the edges with PVC, folding it back to create a frame.
10. Press the clock hands into place - If you want you can paint them in a better contrasting colour using spray paint or nail varnish.

*Torn pieces blend together better than cut ones when doing paper mache, the torn fibres help the edges glue down flat without a stepped edge. I use the pieces of paper with text mainly on the top layer, with the plain ones underneath. The text doesn't come through the paint particularly well, but helps to create interesting shape and shading for the base layer.
**Acrylic paint is rather flexible when it comes to drying layers, HOWEVER, the layer of PVA on top of the paper creates something of a resist which can make it difficult to build up substantial layers without having them completely dry first.

Emergency Treats - Microwaved Cake and Cookie

Video HERE

I have been on a healthy eating regime for over 3 years now, but there are some occasions when you need to indulge. These recipes take just minutes to make and - as you make them yourself - you know exactly how much you have indulged without having to raid the local corner shop for chocolates and snacks.

Microwave Mug Cake

This recipe is almost infinitely variable depending on what you have in the cupboards...
[Serves 2*]
4tbsp Sugar (Brown, white, or a combination)
5tbsp Plain Flour (Swap up to 2tbsp for Cocoa if you like)
1/8tsp Baking Powder (Not required if you're using Self-Raising Flour)
2tbsp Raisins/Choc Chips/Chopped Chocolate Bar/Nuts... whatever you like
1 Egg (See note below)
2tbsp Oil (or melted butter)
2-3tbsp Dairy (Milk, yogurt, sour cream, or non-dairy alternative)

*That is, if you feel like sharing. I have tried the egg replacement techniques (mayonnaise, banana etc) but none seem to work as well. If you're nuking for 1 then you can just go with half a beaten egg and try to hold on to the rest for something else - you could use just the yolk, but I find that ends up with an excessively eggy cake.

Method:

1. Grease 2 mugs with oil or cooking spray.* 
2. Put the sugar, flour (cocoa) and baking powder into a small bowl and stir to mix.**
3. Add the raisins (or whatever), egg, oil and dairy and mix until combined.
4. Share the mixture between the mugs, filling no more than 1/2 way up.
5. Transfer to a plate*** in the microwave and nuke on HIGH for about 90 seconds.
6. The top should be puffy and look dry, if not nuke for UP-TO 30 seconds more. Too much and you'll end up with a bouncy ball.
7. CAREFULLY lift the mugs out and invert onto a serving plate. The cake should drop out with a gentle shake.
8. Serve topped with icing or yogurt or cream.

*I don't always bother, really - mainly because I like my cakes cooked slightly under and they slip out easily that way. You don't have to turn these out, they can be eaten out of the mug if you like.
**Yes, I know it's a mug-cake, but I'm cooking these in square-sided mugs which make it difficult to properly mix everything and you'll often end up with dry flour in the corners. One bowl isn't gonna break the dishwasher, trust me.
***If you've over-filled the mugs this stuff has a tendency to splurge, so either keep a constant eye on the machine and stop it if looks like it's gonna make a mess, or wash your turntable when it does.

Cookie for One

My friend actually found this recipe on Pinterest, I found it rather too sweet, so we've tweaked the ratios somewhat. This is really more of a cookie for one-and-a-half, even tweaked it is still rather rich... although that may be because we'd just scarfed a mug cake each as well...

1tbsp Butter, melted
2tsp White Sugar
2tsp Brown Sugar
2 drops Vanilla
Few grains Salt
1 Egg Yolk
4tbsp Plain Flour
2tbsp Choc Chips
Up to 2tsp Milk

Method:

1. Grease a small mug or dish.
2. Mix together the butter, sugars and vanilla, then add the yolk and salt and mix well.
3. Add the flour and stir until doughy, adding enough milk to bring it together.
4. Stir through the chocolate chips, then spoon into the dish and press into the bottom.
5. Nuke for 40 seconds-1 minute until slightly risen and firm to the touch.
6. Wait for a few minutes before scoffing topped with yogurt or cream.

Hexagonal Stacking - sort of - Box

Video HERE

Some time ago I bought a small, rather sad-looking cardboard box that opened to reveal some rather small drawers/shelves. I have recently been experimenting with angled cuts on my scroll saw and this seemed the perfect opportunity to combine both ideas.

I have drawn up rough plans, and I will add the measurements that I used to make this 5-shelf hexagonal stacker at a later date (when I can find them in the stack of finished projects!). The construction of this box was rather piece-meal, as I dealt with problems that occurred along the way so I didn't take proper notes. These are instructions for the ideal construction technique.

You Will Need:
Scroll Saw with a sturdy blade*
4mm Plywood
Templates (Cutting list below)
Sandpaper
Strong wood glue +/ Contact Adhesive
Masking Tape +/ Large Elastic Bands
Craft Knife and Scissors
Thick paper**
Ribbon
Hinges and clasps
Lining fabric or felt
PVC or Leather

*If you have access to a CNC then this is rather simple, if not you can manage with a table saw, or even a coping saw, although you'll have to ensure you can maintain the angles, or try and sand back the edges.
**Something thicker than copier paper is ideal for covering a multitude of errors whilst minimizing the added thickness to each drawer.

Cutting List
[TBA, apologies]

Method:

1. Securely fix the templates to your ply, cover with tape if you want.
2. Adjust your scroll saw blade to 30 degrees and make the angled cuts*, you will find it easier to cut the shelf sides in longer strips before breaking them down.
3. Re-adjust your blade to 90 degrees and make the rest of the cuts.
4. Fit the shelves together, glue and clamp with tape or elastic bands.
5. Check the angles of the box sides, adjust with sandpaper as required, then tape together and roll up the sides to check they fit correctly.**
6. Sand the shelves flat, then cover with the paper.***
7. Cover the lid and the inside of the box sides with paper and slit open the shelf slots - no need to cut the paper back completely.
8. Hinge the inside of the box sides with ribbon, then cover the outside with PVC and cover the edges with more ribbon.****
9. Glue the shelves into their slots - making sure they each sit at right angles to the sides - , clamping tightly until set.
10. Line each shelf - if you haven't already.
11. Screw in the lid hinges and side clasps.*****
12. Trim with decorative paper, finished with varnish.

*You cannot use a fence on a scroll saw, so this relies on your own ability to hold the line. If in doubt cut slightly wide and sand to the line as required.
**If you are concerned about the fitting of the shelves I would suggest making the outer wall first, then use the internal measurements to adjust the shelf plans to something around 4-5mm smaller.
***You can line them here as it's easier to get proper access before they're fixed in place.
****Contact adhesive would have been a better choice here, otherwise use your best glue, be generous, clamp well and allow everything to dry completely before moving on.
*****You will probably need to slightly bend the latch tongue on the bottom clasp so that it will form around the sides.

Considering the difficulties that I had with maintaining the angles and fit here, I actually rather like this box. It is definitely on my list of projects to repeat.

Pencil-Topped Boxes

Video HERE

This is something I think most woodworkers dabble with at least once, so I thought it was about time that I did. As usual this was a learning experience, and the one thing I really learned was that even my best glue is no match for resin.

The process I used was not really the best choice, many of those who came before me have proven the correct way to work here, but I have a few tips for anyone endeavouring to take on the pencil!

• When you have a couple of packs of pencils you can work out the rough area they'll cover by bundling 9 in a 3x3 diamond. Push the ends flat onto a scrap of paper and draw around the shape. Measuring the height x length will give you an area per 9 pencils. Find the area of your box and divide by that number, then multiply by 9 to tell you how many pieces you'll need to cover. This is a rough estimate, but unless you decide to wrap the sides like I did it should be close enough.
• Cutting one pencil at a time is tedious, so I chose to bundle them together with masking tape - so that I could draw on the measurements required. This works well enough, but try to avoid making big thick bundles. Ideally no more than 2 high so that each piece will be held together by the tape and not be a loose chunk that could cause issues.
• YES, wear breathing protection. I do not know what goes in to the pencil lead, but I would rather not be colouring my lungs.
• I have kept the pencil tips separate for a future project, but if you can get some non-sharpened ones you benefit from extra usable length.
• If you decide to cover the sides of your boxes you can either sand back one face of each piece or split off half the wood like I did. I didn't show it on camera, but I used the scroll saw to cut half-way through the pencil's width first to stop it splitting all the way down.
• When gluing these to your box I would suggest initially using glue, then filling the gaps with resin - if you have a vacuum pot that will certainly help to get rid of any bubbles and guarantee a solid piece.
• If you haven't got resin - or don't think you have enough like I did - then be prepared to lose some pieces in the sanding phase. Perhaps if I'd used a detail sander or tried to do this by hand it would have reduced the amount I lost, but I frankly don't have the time or energy for all that sanding. I have learned that you never lose just one piece, they tend to come in blocks where, perhaps, your gluing was a little weaker. Luckily, most of my pieces didn't go far so I was able to replace them all - and then use a little resin to solidify the bond.
• Although not such a problem with the machine sanding, I did find that when hand-sanding the paint around the pencils curled back into the holes and needed to be cut off - particularly with the circular pencils as the gaps between were bigger (and the hexagonal ones slotted quite tightly) This would obviously not have been a problem if I'd used resin to make a solid block, but live and learn.
• Pencil ends are always end-grain so finishing can be difficult. I went up to 120, washed with white spirit, then 180 grit before applying water-based varnish. 4 rounds of sanding and varnish really didn't cut it, so I resorted to spray varnish, which covers most defects in just 2 coats.

I have learned much in the process of this project, not least that resin really is the cure to most gluing applications... but there are always new plans in the works and I will certainly be trying again in the future.

Educating Steak... A Balanced Soda-Marinade

Video HERE


Having been on a healthy eating kick for the last few years I haven't actually tasted a proper steak in almost 30 months - absolutely criminal! - although there isn't a particular health reason why not, except that we, as a household, are avoiding red meat in general. This was filmed one weekend in the summer when I was alone in the house and feeling in need of a good slab of meat - with token 'healthy' sides.

'Cola'-marinades have been used for steak for years. The acidic nature of the red can helps to break down the meat and increase tenderness, but I prefer a more educated brew, which has a similar effect, but I think it leaves a less-sweet finish which I prefer...

You will need:
1 Steak*
1 can Dr Pepper**

1tbsp Dark Soy Sauce
1tbsp Balsamic Vinegar***
Juice of 1 Lime

*I have a 300g piece of rib eye here, which I prefer generally for the good balance of fat. This kind of marinade is not advisable for fillet steak (What kind of Philistine would marinade a fillet?!) but really works well with other cuts, such as rump or sirloin, but you will probably have to marinade those for slightly longer.
**This is a full-sugar can, you could use a Zero variety - if you're nuts.
***The vinegar and soy balance the sweetness of the soda, the lime also adds sharpness as it tenderizes.

Method:

1. Place the steak flat in your smallest dish*.
2. Pour over the soy, vinegar and lime juice, then add enough Dr Pepper to just cover the meat.
3. Cover with cling film and marinate in the fridge for 4-6 hours, turning once or twice.
4. Remove from the fridge about 30-45 minutes before cooking to allow the meat to come back to room temperature.
5. Blot the steak dry on kitchen paper before cooking to reduce smoking.**
6. Grill until done to your liking, then REST for 2-4 minutes wrapped in foil.
7. Drizzle over any reserved juices and sprinkle with a little sea salt to serve.

*Or one in which it will tightly fit. If you're doing more than one steak, pack them tight, but not touching.
**This works really well on the barbecue. You don't need to blot the steaks before cooking, but if you slightly reduce the leftover marinade you can paint it on for a glaze.

A stir-fry is a great way to put together a meal - or a side dish - with the leftover bendy veg in your fridge. The one I make here has almost no green veg (a bit of celery), which isn't ideal, but whatever you have will do.

You will need: (for 2 people)
1 large Carrot
2 sticks Celery
1 Bell Pepper
1 Red Onion
Small handful Greens (Broccoli, mangetout, green beans)
100g pack Straight-to-wok Noodles
1" Ginger, in matchsticks
1/2-1 Chili
2-3 Cloves Garlic, chopped
Zest of 1 Lime*
3-4tbsp of your leftover Marinade - or...
1tbsp Honey**
2tbsp Light Soy**
1tbsp Dark Soy**
Pinch of Pepper

*If you've planned ahead you will have zested the lime before marinating the steak.
**These amounts are about right for my taste, adjust to suit your own.

Method:

1. Cut your veg. This seems complicated, but really isn't. Carrots and celery should be no thicker than 1/8". Peppers about 1" cubes, or 1/2" strips. Onions in thin wedges. Green florets separated to bite-sized pieces, long beans chopped in half.
2. For the sauce, put the marinade in a small bowl or cup with half the ginger, chili and garlic. add a pinch of pepper and stir.
3. Heat a little oil in a wok - or large pan - until very hot, then add in your hard vegetables (carrot, celery and onion) with the ginger. Cook, stirring, until slightly translucent.
4. Add the medium veg (broccoli, green beans, mini corn) with the garlic and stir until softened.
5. Add the soft veg (Peppers, mangetout) and chili and stir for 1 minute, then add the noodles and stir well to combine and brown slightly.
6. Pour over the sauce and stir until coated and slightly reduced.
7. Remove from the heat, stir in the zest and serve immediately.

Getting Lost in a Marble Maze

Video HERE

The idea for this project has been running around my head since I came across an old ball bearing amongst a joblot of junk. I don't have a plan to show you because it depends on the relative size of your marble, but I have a few pointers...

• Draw out a grid slightly larger than your marble and use those lines to draw your maze on.
• You should choose either tricky paths and dead ends or pitfalls, I used both in excess, which makes the maze closer to impossible than I would like.
• When gluing your walls to the foundation be sure that the marble runs freely, or you will have to file and adjust.
• Check again after adding paint or finish.
• If you want to re-use your marble then leave an open exit - I did and have since lost the ball, so I would suggest closing it inside..
• My decision to make a double-sided maze added extra difficulty here, with the ball dropping through rather than just into the oubliette and my attempt to fix the problem with a sheet of paper just caught the ball every time it fell through and made it difficult to retrieve.
• I like the idea of carrying the ball around the side rather than dropping through, and I intend to design a maze cube for the future.

I have more maze ideas for the future, so watch this space...

Sewing Patterns from your Wardrobe!

Video HERE

Drawing up clothing patterns from scratch can be excessively difficult unless you have an understanding of how fabric moves and fits together - to that end I always suggest that you start with items you own first, ones that you know fit well. To begin with I'd start with a simple T-shirt - 3 pieces, no difficult shapes, 1.5-2m of jersey fabric. (Although sewing jersey can be a challenge, this also gives you understanding of how to maintain tension whilst machine sewing, so it's a win-win)

You Will Need:
A T-Shirt (or other simple garment that fits you well - or requiring small changes which you can attempt to challenge yourself)
Tracing paper (I use baking parchment because it comes on a long roll, although craft papers come in wider rolls I find them to be too thick.)
Pencil and/or marker pen
Ruler
Scissors

Method 1 (Old garment that fits, but doesn't have much life left):

1. CAREFULLY dissect the garment into its separate pieces along the sewn lines.
2. Lay each piece onto paper (folding where symmetrical) and trace around with pencil.
3. Draw a 1.5cm sewing allowance and mark where seams and other features go.

Method 2 (Garment you like and would like more of without damaging the original):

1. This goes the same way for each piece. Fold the piece neatly in half - if it's symmetrical - being careful to make sure all the seams are flat.
2. Lay the paper over the top* and slide your fingers over the paper so that you can feel the seams through it. Mark the position of curves every 2-3cm, then join the dots. Use a ruler to mark all straight edges.
3. IF your paper isn't big enough mark where the fabric overflows and by how much, you can add this later. IF your piece fits easily within the paper then move on to stage 5.
4. Cut out your pattern piece - exactly to the shape you have, then stick together a couple of sheets and lay the template over the top. Draw around the template, adding any overflow, then you can discard it.
5. With a pencil/pen and a ruler mark out your seam allowance - usually 1.5cm, then clearly label the piece.**
6. Repeat until all the pattern pieces are made and you're ready to sew.

*You could lay the garment on top of the paper and trace around, but this makes it difficult to get an accurate line for arm holes etc.
**Labels should include;

• Which part it is - back, front, side etc. Be concise now so that when you start making multi-panel shirts you're prepared for centre left, front right, back left etc.
• Which number it is - a T-shirt has only 3 parts (back, front and sleeve), but as above, you need to get into the habit so that when you have an 8-piece pattern you know if you're missing part 3/8.
• Mark the grain of the fabric - essentially which way the knit or weave is running, with velvet or fur you'll need to know which direction the pile is moving in.
• Complex patterns will require notches to mark where sections fit together, or where darts sit.
• ALWAYS mark where the fold goes!

It's actually rather simple - at least this bit is - the real fun comes when you try to use your patterns! See you for that next week!

'Miracle' Microwave Fudge

Video HERE

I think I have mentioned before that I have a really bad history with hot sugar recipes. Many, many batches of fudge, caramel and toffee have failed under my care - despite following recipes to the letter. However, In recent months I have come across a microwavable fudge recipe - that you can adapt to your taste/texture preference - that NEVER fails!

Ingredients: (for 36-ish pieces)
140g Butter, cubed
400g Caster Sugar
390ml Condensed Milk
Pinch of salt (or use salted butter)
1tsp Vanilla*

*Flavour options are entirely up to you. I like rum + raisin, simply heat 2-3 tbsp raisins in 2-3tbsp dark rum then set aside to soak (this can be overnight if you like)

Method - For an 800 Watt Microwave*

1. Put the butter, sugar, milk and salt into the LARGEST GLASS BOWL that will fit in your microwave.
2. Heat on HIGH for 2 minutes at a time, stirring in between until the butter is melted.**
3. Continue to heat on HIGH in 2 minute intervals. CAREFULLY remove from the machine and stir to combine, THEN check the temperature.
4. DO  NOT WALK AWAY! This has a tendency to bubble over so be ready to stop the machine and let things settle back down before continuing.
5. Once the mixture reaches 115C CAREFULLY whisk in the flavouring - it will spit.
6. Heat once more for 2 minutes on HIGH. Stir, then leave to stand for 5 minutes.
7. Beat with a wooden spoon (or a beater attachment) until slightly cooled, lighter in colour and no longer shiny.
8. Tip into a lined and greased 8" square pan and tap to level (or press into the corners with a spatula) Leave to set.
9. After about an hour you can lift the fudge from the tin and cut into squares.

*You will need to adapt cooking times according to your machine. I have a 700 Watt so I start with 3 minute blasts, then drop to 2 minutes when things start to get bubbly.
**I always scrape off my spatula in the same place to reduce the amount of sticky mess later.

Variations of Texture.

1. The method above will give you a creamy traditional fudge.
2. To make a crystalline, crisp 'Tablet' style fudge don't beat the fudge, just tip directly into the pan and leave to cool.
3. For a soft, paste-like fudge don't re-nuke after adding the flavouring, but beat for 5 minutes. This will need longer to cool before cutting - once it reaches room temp chill in the freezer for 20 minutes to firm it up for cutting. Store separated by greaseproof paper in the fridge or you'll end up with a big fudgy mass. This is ideal for a cake filling, just nuke gently to help it spread without dragging crumbs.

Patchwork Suitcase

Video HERE

Yes, it sounds rather an odd idea... but I think it worked our quite well (probably because I actually planned things in detail for once!)

If you're up to date with my Monthly Reports you'll know that I spent a large chunk of February making bibs (over 70 at the final count) and in the process I collected about 120x3" pieces of scrap fabric cut from the neck holes of said bibs. Now these scraps aren't really of any use in my other projects, other than for making patchwork - hence the 3-Minute skill I posted last week on the subject and this video.

You will need:
Fabric scraps (And lining scraps of different thicknesses)
Rough paper
Needle and thread (standard cotton thread and sturdy top stitch thread with a large needle)
Scissors
Pins
Large Wooden Suitcase-style box (Or any box you like, bigger is better)
Sandpaper
Tools (Screwdriver and/or craft blade and pliers)
Pen/Pencil
Cardboard (scrap piece will do)
Drill with a small bit (about 1/8" or less)
Fabric-backed PVC
Clamps
Brass pins and hammer
Double-sided tape
Glue and spreader
Lining/Wadding
Cord or String
Super Glue
Clasp and Hinges (If you want to use the ones from the box that's up to you)

Patchwork

1. At roughly 2.5-3" round these pieces limited me to a 2" wide shape and I went with a hexagon - mainly because it's more interesting than a square and easier to sew than a circle. After deciding on my shape I made a template, adding 1/8" on all sides to allow for stitching.
2. To begin with I used my template to mark out and cut out some paper liners using rough (ie. used) copier paper. Trying to work out the exact final dimensions can be difficult so I started with a 6x6 piece of patchwork - which became the little makeup bag you can see in the photos - once sewn together and pressed I was able to work out how many patches I would need for the suitcase lining pieces (see below).
3. To join the patches I started by pinning them to the paper, folding down the corners and edges to make the shapes crisp and accurate. I then placed two patches together paper-sides in and stitched along one side, roughly 1/8" from the edge . (I then doubled back to create a blanket-style stitch, which was probably completely unnecessary, A simple running stitch one way then the other would have sufficed as these are not load-bearing)
4. To make the process more user-friendly I separated the patches into groups of 9 so that I could sew 3x3 pieces and then join them together at a later date - this was particularly useful as I took my work with me and was able to put together smaller sets whilst sitting on my lunch break or in a coffee shop, for example.
5. Once the patchwork was complete I removed the paper liners - most satisfying - and pressed everything flat from the front side - you can try from the back, but all those rough edges just get in my nerves.

The Suitcase

1. Measure the internal dimensions of your box and calculate the amount of lining you will need - add 1-2" just in case, particularly for the bottom. Draw out and cut your patch template from card - follow the stages above to make your patchwork lining.
2. Remove all hardware - hinges and clasps - and sand along the edges and corners to remove any sharp bits.
3. Use your template to mark out a quilt pattern on the top of the box - extending it around the sides if you like. Drill a hole at every corner or intersection.
4. Cut the lining pieces to match the template and layer to create depth. Sew the layers together a few times - not too tight - then place onto the box. (You can go for a random pattern, or try and place the padding in a specific area, whatever you like.) Try to ensure there is at least one layer over each corner to protect the PVC over time.
5. For the bottom, place the bottom box onto the PVC with a good amount of excess on each side. Pull one side up and over the edge, clamp into place, then pull up the opposite side and clamp evenly, but firmly over the edge. Repeat with the other sides. Make sure the fabric is pulled to an even tension across the bottom, then hammer in a few pins along the bottom edge to hold it in place. Remove the clamps.
6. Working one corner at a time cut a tall, slim V-shape up to - but not out of - each corner. Place a piece of double-sided tape across the top of the corner and pull the V-shape up tight to the edge of the box. Repeat with all the corners.
7. Slightly fold the edges of each side piece in as you bring it up over the side of the box. (See diagram) and glue into place. Clamp until dry, then hammer in a few pins for support and decoration.
   
8. Layer the bottom patchwork over your lining and offer it up to the box, pushing it into the edges to make sure that it fits. Cut the lining to fit exactly but give the patchwork at least 1/2" on all sides - do not cut out the corners of the patchwork.
9. Pin the patchwork edges to the lining, then clamp the short ends into place. Tuck the corners back behind the long ends and clamp those into place as well.
10. Working section by section carefully glue the patchwork to the top edge of the box, clamp until set, then secure with pins every 1-2" starting at the corners.
11. For the lid, stick the lining onto the lid with double-sided tape, then place the lid on the PVC, with a generous excess. Pull the edges up and clamp into place, making sure the tension is even.
12. Using top stitch thread and a large needle sew through from the inside of the box around the outside edge of the lid, then remove the clamps and sew around the rest of the pattern, pulling tight as you go.
13. Once the sewing is complete trim and fold over the sides as you did on the bottom, making sure that the PVC covers the inside edge.
14. For the top lining arrange your layers onto a piece of fabric over some lining/wadding cut exactly to size. Sew it into a single pad (much easier this way, trust me) using the same stitch as you used for the patchwork.
15. Cover the inside of the lid with strong glue and press the lining into place, adding weights to ensure even pressure all round, particularly along the edges.
16. To close the corners use the top stitch thread to make a criss-cross stitch, pulling the edges together firmly without stretching the PVC. Apply a thin coat of glue to all the thread to add strength and to help it yellow with age,
17. Add hinges and a clasp - you may need to cut away some of the PVC for things to settle into place, just add a little glue to the edges to stop them peeling back over time.
18. For the handle, braid together your string or cord then double it back on itself to make a roughly 7" strip. Wrap with a little more PVC and stitch the layers together. Glue to the suitcase, then secure with pins.

Yes, it was a lot of work - but worth it! This looks really good, and it feels great too. I love the way that the padding gives the top added dimension and reflects the pattern of the patchwork inside.

Doughnuts - But not as you know them...

Video HERE

This year I have really been embracing the healthy eating thing, but there is a point in 'healthy' eating where you just crave something naughty... so, rather than running to the corner shop for a bar of high-sugar high-fat not-actually-food I turned to the interweb to find an alternative treat without the calorific load...

This recipe originally came from TV chef Tom Kerridge, but I've adapted it for my taste - and the ingredients I had to hand. These come out at around 90 calories each.

Yes, the spelling in the title card is deliberate!

Ingredients: (Makes 12)
200ml Milk
25g Butter*
1tsp Fast Action Yeast
175g Self Raising Flour
75g Self Raising Wholemeal Flour **

1tsp Baking Powder
2tbsp Granulated Sweetener
1/2tsp Sea Salt
1tsp Cinnamon***

1 Egg, beaten

To Finish:
40g Caster Sugar
1/2tsp Cinnamon

*This is the only fat in these donuts so go with it!
**I initially made these with half wholemeal flour (because I ran out of white) and they turned out very biscuit and crisp, but not bad overall. After some experimenting I found that this ratio, and slightly more milk than the original recipe creates a soft, slightly nutty texture. If you want to just use White flour you will only need 180ml of milk.
***The choice of spice is entirely up to you. Tom uses Chinese five spice, but I really don't like that flavour in sweet things so I went with cinnamon instead.

Method:

1. Lightly grease a 12-ring donut pan.
2. Put the milk and butter into a small pan and heat to melt, it doesn't need to boil.
3. Mix all the dry ingredients in a large bowl.
4. Add the milk and egg and stir until smooth.
5. Spoon into a piping bag and pipe into the pan, roughly 1/2 filling each ring.
6. Loosely cover and leave to rise in a warm place for 1 hour.
7. [Preheat Oven GM7/200C]
8. Bake for 10-14 minutes until risen and browned.*
9. Leave for 10 minutes to cool before removing from the pan.
10.  Mix together the sugar and spice and sprinkle onto a small plate. Brush each donut with a little water and toss to coat.
11. Best eaten whilst still warm or you can freeze the extras (undusted) and nuke in the microwave for 30 seconds before dusting to serve.

*Cooking time varies depending on how much wholemeal flour you use - and how reliable your oven is. These will brown quite quickly so I suggest turning the tray after 10 minutes and then keeping a close eye for the last few.

Easter Basket Fail - Managing Disapointment

Video HERE

My original intention here was to make a scroll saw basket from pallet wood using the natural grain of the wood to create movement and interest...

From the picture above you can see my intention to cut multiple pieces that would slot together creating dovetail keys to hold the sides together... I really did think that the wood would stand up to this design, but my cutting skills were not up to the task and further finessing pretty much caused these pieces to crack apart... It could have been an absolute disaster, but I don't just give up. Think, re-think and reflect.

Instead of scrapping the lot I decided to trim and adapt the main basket pieces to make them fit - It was an ugly process, definitely not carpentry skill, more like hacking and hammering (so more like my usual way with woodworking!) which left sizable gaps that no amount of filling would be able to remedy. I decided to embrace the rustic an go with it.

After gluing the tray together I realized that - although ugly - it was a solid base, so I started with a thin wash of white acrylic, then had a brain wave... It was never going to be pretty or smooth, so why was I trying to make it that way? I mixed a couple of scoops of filler powder with acrylic paint and plastered it all over the wood - particularly in the cracks - deliberately creating texture with brush strokes and lumps. Once dry I rubbed in acrylic yellow, green and blue in random patches that picked out the texture, and then I used a little - cheap and quite liquid - silver to blend and mix the colours into the surface. This creates a great pattern with movement and changes of density and colour that I really like, and will probably try again in a future - planned - project.

When the weather warms I will apply 2-3 coats of varnish to protect the surface - the filler has made it rather more porous than I would like. For the time being I have added a braided yarn handle, I will replace it with a more decorative one at a later date.

Like most things this was a learning experience. I have learned to be more patient and optimistic in the face of failure, and that sitting at a scroll saw in -7C is really not condusive to quality work - or continuing health.

Let your frustrations out.

Manage your disappointment.

Take a step back and look at the parts that do work.

Nothing is wrong with adapting your plan.

Everything is educational.

Embrace the challenges.

'Healthy' Carrot Marmalade

Video HERE

I make a number of preserves - mainly for flavouring chocolates - and my favourite marmalade recipe is essentially 'blend the fruit to a puree, add equal weight of sugar and water and boil to 105C' - and works with any citrus fruit. Traditional marmalade does not use any added pectin because there is a lot in the pith of citrus fruits.

Recently I have decided to try and reduce the amount of sugar in everything I make. I found a carrot marmalade recipe online and I wondered if I could combine them... this is my experimental recipe, which came out OK... I have notes for future attempts after the recipe.

Ingredients:
2 Oranges
2 Lemons
450-500g Carrots
4 Cardamom Pods
400g Granulated Sugar
1ltr Water
2" Root Ginger

Method:

1. THE NIGHT BEFORE - Remove the zest from the fruit, then cut in half and remove any pips* before squeezing the juice into a blender. Cut the fruit into 1/4's and drop into the blender as well. Add a splash of water and blend to a puree, then tip into a bowl.
2. Trim the top and bottom off the carrots then grate coarsely** then add to the bowl.
3. Crush the cardamom and split the pods open, add to the bowl with the sugar.
4. Chop the peel into fine shards, then add to the bowl. Mix well, cover and leave for at least 6 hours, or overnight.
5. THE NEXT DAY - Tip the bowl into a large pan, add the water***. Chop the ginger into chunky pieces**** then add to the pan.
6. Bring to a boil, then simmer for about 1 hour.
7. Wash and rinse your jars and lids, then transfer to the oven at GM1/70C*****.
8. Increase the heat and stir occasionally until it reaches 105C.
9. Remove the ginger then carefully ladle into jars - within 1cm(1/4") of the top - screw on the lids and leave to cool.

* I always remove the pips because they usually escape the blender unharmed. They do contain some pectin so if you want to wrap them in a bundle and add them to the pan you can - just don't forget to fish them out before jarring.
** Beyond removing the top and bottom I don't bother peeling carrots unless they've been around a while and are looking worse for storage.
*** Feel free to add more water - see notes below.
**** Chunky ginger will release plenty of flavour, but if you want it stronger cut it relatively fine and leave it in.
***** Or run the jars through a hot dishwasher cycle and fill whilst still hot from the machine.

Notes

This produced an OK marmalade, not particularly pretty - and I miss the clear jelly with floating peel that I normally make, but I think next time I can definitely do it better...

• Separate the peel as usual and puree the fruit, but transfer to a muslin bag to keep the jelly clear.
• More spice required.
• Add at least double the water into the pan.
• Boil slightly longer, to 108C in order to extract more pectin from the pith.

For a first attempt at a diabetic Frankenstein recipe this isn't bad - it just looks ugly in the jar!

Beanbags

Video HERE

A basic beanbag is a wonderful thing for lounging around on, however the more basic your bag the more likely a bean explosion, so I do suggest that you always double-bag and reinforce the seams. This is how I make them...

These patterns are for small bags which hold about 3 cubic feet (90cm3) of beans, although it is easy to increase the sizes to suit your needs.

You will need:
Lining Fabric*
Outer Fabric**
Scissors
Pins
Matching thread
Sewing Machine
2x6" (15cm) Zip***
Polystyrene Beans

*The lining can be anything you want, although I prefer a plain cotton, usually old bedsheets. Bottom fabrics can be a little thicker if you want.
**Use an upholstery fabric, ideally something sturdy that won't shed fibres or fray excessively.
***I usually just go for a drawstring-style top to the bags, but on this occasion I was asked to use zips instead, which I think look slightly more professional in the long run, just remember to cover the ends when you sew them in and stitch the zip closed once it's filled.

Method:

1. Draw out your pattern pieces - unless you're going for a particular pattern or using fabric remnants try to avoid separate pieces as much as possible to reduce the risk of seam failure. The lining in particular should be arranged on one piece of fabric as demonstrated above.
2. Fold over the top point of each section, leaving a small opening with a neat edge at the top of each bag before you pin the sections together.
3. Sew the sections together first with a straight stitch, then follow up just beyond the first with a zig-zag stitch.
4. You'll find some difference in size between the sides and base circle, just pleat the extra in as you go around, it won't show once its filled.
5. Leave an opening for the zip if you're using them, be careful to contain the open end in a strip of fabric to keep it neat.
6. Fold over the handle strip and sew along its length then turn through the right-side out and fold over into a loop. Put the loop into the top of the lining bag and sew across the opening.*
7. Turn both bags right-side out and push the lining inside the outer, pull the handle though the top of the bag and align the zips together for filling.**
8. Fill the inner bag with polystyrene beans, pull the zip closed and sew through the loop into the fabric, then close the outer zip and sew it closed.
9. Make sure the inner bag is sitting evenly inside the outer bag then sew a line of stitches along the bottom of the handle to tidy up the top.

*Obviously, if you're not using a zip then you can't sew the handle in until the bag is filled.
**To make filling easier I use safety pins to hold the openings in place.

Essay Writing For Everyone

Video HERE

I am quite passionate about this skill - and it is a skill, not just for school - because being able to condense your thoughts into a formal written conversation is an essential, wherever you are in your studies or career.

These 6 points work for both a set essay and an exam question - obviously you can't walk away from your exam, but being able to separate yourself a little during the given time certainly helps to give you a clearer mind in the final stages.

Current marking theories look for the difference between competence and mastery - using correct terminology, excellent grammar and punctuation and logical progression of argument - so bear these in mind.

1. Preparation

• Do the damned reading! (A really skilled student could manage a pass-level essay with just Cliff notes/Cambridge reader/class notes, but there is NO REPLACEMENT for actually reading the text!)
• Make notes - I always fill my books with post-its, colour coded for characterization/historical references/questions raised.
• As you read the particular themes and patterns of the story will become apparent, and will give clues to the type of exam question you'll get.
• Do further reading. Depending on your level this might just be a bit of historical or social research, further studies will require knowledge of critical theories - feminist or Freudian readings for example - usually directed by your tutor. Advanced studies at degree level will require you to seek out your own critical sources, which can be difficult - your tutor will have guidelines relevant to your subject.
• Studying English literature often leads you to performances - either stage or screen - try and watch as many as you can as some essays will benefit from it. Watching a production also helps you to understand more complex story lines (particularly in Shakespeare) but remember that your essay is about the text, unless otherwise stated, don't get too caught up in the acting choices.

2. Planning

• Dissect the question. What is the question asking? Compare, Explore, Discuss, Explain?
• What sources do you need? Main text, class-led reading, self-led research.
• Re-read your text with the question in mind, remove notes that are not relevant (this is where post-its come in handy) and clarify those that are.
• How many points of argument/discussion do you have? Order them with a logical progression.
• What is your word count? Set aside 2-300 for introduction and conclusion then divide the remainder between the points you have left, about 1-200 each.
• ALWAYS INCLUDE PLANNING IN AN EXAM. It should only take a few minutes, but if you run out of time the assessor can see where you were intending to go and can allow for your intentions in their marking.

3. Writing

• Explain each point in turn, give a quote for evidence, back up with research/further reading.
• What is your opinion? Can you add something interesting to the argument - the assessor will appreciate an original idea IF it is well written with appropriate references. Don't fill an essay with all your own opinions, you need to discuss those already given in your sources first, one or two of your own ideas towards the end show the understanding you have developed through your reading.
• PRINT HARDCOPIES ON A REGULAR BASIS! Never rely on technology, it is easier to rebuild from here - trust me on this!

4. Editing Part 1

• Have I answered the question? Make sure that you are on-topic throughout, a brilliantly written argument will gain you no points if it is not relevant to the question.

5. Re-Read and Conclusion

• Take a moment away from writing to re-read the text in full. In an exam this gives you a few minutes to relax and re-focus for the final push.
• For a set essay this should be at least a day. Go somewhere outside, walk in the park, play sports. Do something different.
• Now you can write your introduction and conclusion.

6. Final Edit and Housekeeping

• Check for clarity, flow, grammar, punctuation.
• Read aloud if you can, or aloud in you head (if you get what I mean)
• Check your references and bibliography.

Always leave yourself time before deadline - at least 24 hours in case of technical issues. Keep a hardcopy for yourself.

DO NOT USE ESSAY-WRITING SERVICES!

In an exam of 2 hours you should split the time generally as follows;

10min Read text and make notes.
10min Planning
1hr Writing
10min First Edit
10min Re-read Source
10min Introduction and Conclusion
5min Final Edit
+5min

A set essay with a deadline - assuming a month lead-in;
1-7th Preliminary planning - dissect the question then continue on to Reading and Research
8th - Planning
9-19th Writing (I'm not expecting anyone to spend all day for 10 days working on this. It's easier to do a bit every day so that you're refreshed in between, or you could go at it for a whole day. Whichever way works for you to get the main bulk of the essay done in this period)
19th - First Edit
20th-25th Re-read Source and go outside for at least a day.
25th - Introduction and Conclusion
26th - Final Edit of Text.
27th - Referencing and Bibliography (You should have been putting this together as you progressed, now is the time to get everything in order using the appropriate system)
28th -  Deadline

This system has taken some time to work out, but it certainly works for me. However long you have before deadline you should always start with a general plan as soon as you get the question, which will give you an idea of what you are looking for in the reading. Although you can probably write a passable essay in a week, I always aim for at least 14 days for the chance to show real mastery of the text and your writing skills. Reading can take months, but sooner or later you're going to have to sit down and write.

A last-minute caffeine-fueled rant on a page will always be recognizable by the stench of panic in the writing. If you're given time to do the work, actually DO THE WORK!

Turk-ish Pie (Healthy Recipe Experiment)

Turk-ish Pie

Video HERE

Cottage and Shepherd's Pie* are classic comfort foods, but they are relatively high in fat and carbs so I have been trying to develop a healthier option using turkey... I'm not quite there yet, but this is my working recipe.

*Have you ever wondered about the name? Shepherd's pie is pretty much self-explanatory, being made with lamb, but how does 'cottage' equate to beef? I actually did some research on this (I had a free hour) and discovered that the 'cottage' comes from fork marks made in the potato topping, which is supposed to look like the straw thatched roof of an old-fashioned cottage... you learn something new every day!

Ingredients: (This makes enough turkey 'ragu' for 4 individual pies, or 1 big one in a baking dish roughly 20x30cm 8x12"*)
1 Red Onion, chopped
2-3 Carrots, chopped
1-2 Celery sticks, chopped
1/2 Yellow or Orange Pepper**
4-6 Sweet Potatoes, peeled and chopped
1 Large-ish Potato, chopped slightly smaller than the sweet***
4-500g Turkey Mince
1 Low-Salt Chicken Stock Cube
1tbsp Cumin
1tbsp Garam Masala
2tsp Turmeric
1tbsp Dried Thyme
1tbsp Dried Savory or Oregano
1/4 tsp White Pepper
1-2tsp Garlic Powder
1/2tsp Dijon Mustard
2tbsp Tomato Puree
Splash Red Wine
1/2 - 1tsp Chili Flakes
Nutmeg
Cup of Frozen Peas
75-100g Feta Cheese****
1-2tbsp Low-Fat Spread

*This 'ragu' also goes well with pasta - wholewheat ideally - or brown rice, or even spooned over a jacket potato.
**Pepper and red onion add a slight sweetness, which balances the bitter edge of celery and replaces my usual squirt of tomato ketchup - all the veg in this recipe will give you at least 3 of your 5-a-day.
***I always peel sweet potatoes, their skins tend to be rather ratty, often concealing large spots, but leave the skins on carrots and regular potatoes (unless you're roasting them) to retain vitamins.
****I am not adding salt to this ragu, so the cheese provides a flavour burst instead.

Method:

1. Prep and chop your vegetables.
2. Put the potato into a pan with a pinch of salt and bring to a boil. Once tender, drain and mash with the low fat spread. Season with pepper and nutmeg, then set aside.
3. In a wide frying pan put the carrot and celery, cover with water and bring to a simmer. Cook until almost dry then tip into a bowl.*
4. Cook the onion in a little oil until well browned, then add the turkey.
5. Break up the mince and cook until almost dry - turkey releases a lot of water - before adding half the cumin and turmeric. Stir through and cook until fragrant.
6. Put the stock cube, cumin, turmeric, herbs, pepper, garlic, mustard and puree into a jug and pour on 400ml boiling water. Stir to dissolve then leave to steep for 1-2 minutes.
7. Add the carrot and celery - and any remaining water - to the mince. Stir well, then cook until dry before adding the stock and bringing to a boil.
8. Reduce to a simmer and cook for 5 minutes before adding the chili and wine.**
9. Cook for a further 5 minutes, then stir in the pepper and peas and cook for 2 minutes.
10. Remove from the heat, stir in the remaining garam masala and spoon into oven-proof dishes.
11. Crumble the cheese on top, then spoon on the potato and smooth over the surface.*** If you want you can add a sprinkling of breadcrumbs for a better finish, or fork over the mash.
12. Set the pies aside until ready to bake.
13. Bake at GM7 (200C) for 30-45 minutes, depending on size.

*You don't have to simmer the carrot and celery if you cut it fine enough, but we prefer chunkier veg which needs to be part-cooked. You can do this in one pan if you have the time and patience, I prefer to have 2 pans running - start the simmering and onion together and the veg is usually ready to tip into the meat at about the right time.
**If you want this spicier you can add the chili with the stock, and/or add 1/4 - 1/2tsp chili powder.
***Feta doesn't really brown like cheddar does, but it does melt slightly and I think it's better to have it oozing through the ragu rather than plonked on the top.

Puzzle Box of Boxes

Part 1 - Stacking Boxes
Video HERE

Many years ago I designed and built a puzzle box of boxes from card. Once completed I realized just how ugly it looked and relegated it to the back of my wardrobe, where many prototypes go to die. When I was sorting through my craft things before moving down to the Shed I rediscovered it, covered in cobwebs, sitting there like the last chicken in the shop. In my new found desire to explore making I decided that I would reincarnate this monstrosity in wood, so I transported it down to the shiny new Shed, where it ended up in a corner once more covered in spider constructions. Before closing the Shed for Christmas last year I had a good sort-out and again the beast surfaced... so I decided it's about time I actually did something with it.

I will upload the cutting templates when both videos are up, but be prepared for a lot of copying to get enough pieces for all 10 boxes. I used mostly 5mm plywood because I didn't have enough good quality thin wood, and I think that ply will stand up better to the process (most of the time, some parts really needed to be solid). You should use thicker wood if you're looking to make integrated hinges, or adapt the patterns to fit metal ones, I prefer the look of leather.

Essentially, the making process is all the same thing repeated ten times, with a few necessary differences, but these are the general instructions for construction of the boxes.

You Will Need:
Paper pattern - Copied enough times to make each piece*
Wood -  5 and 10mm Ply, and some pallet wood for the dials
Glue stick or spray adhesive
Sello/Packing Tape
Scroll saw with No.4 reverse tooth blade (or whatever is appropriate to your stock)
Sandpaper - 80 and 120 grit **
Wood Glue
Clamps
Files
Wood Veneer
Copper acrylic paint (optional)
Masking tape
Wax and a cotton cloth
Leather scraps
Small brass pins and hammer
Paper and felt for lining

*As there are multiples of each piece you could layer the wood together with tape and/or pins, or even cut them out of chunky wood then cut to appropriate thickness. I decided that individual pieces would have less risk of mis-cutting batches - trimming was required to help things fit, but I prefer that to losing stacks of blanks along the way.
**A sanding machine is very useful, particularly if you leave way too much excess on the joints like I did.

[Box Plans]

Method:

1. Cut your pattern pieces and fix to the wood securely, then cover both sides with tape.
2. Roughly cut out the small box pieces - I cut them to size first, then stacked each boxes' pieces together before moving on.
3. Carefully cut out the pieces, keeping to the lines especially in the joints.* (Reserve some sawdust for later)
4. For each small box you should mark on a lid and a bottom, then add arrows to the sides so that you can fit them together in the same configuration - this saves on frustration whilst gluing, trust me.
5. Unfold each box and give the inside surfaces a quick sanding** then glue 5 sides together - not the lid, obviously - and clamp together to dry.
6. Once dry sand down the joints until they're flush and round over the edges.
7. Mix sawdust with a little glue for a filler and spread into any gaps - be careful around the lid. Leave to dry, then sand up to 120 grit. 
8. Put the large box aside for now - you can glue in your lining if you want but do not attach the lid.
9. Gently remove the lid, decide on an edge for the hinge and mark with a pencil, then file down the corners of the joints until it moves smoothly. File a small notch at the front of the box for a finger lift.
10. Optional stage - Paint the inner joint surfaces and inside edges with acrylic for a neat finish. Make sure they are COMPLETELY dry before replacing the lid - you may need to file back any grain that rises.
11. With the lid in place mask off the hinge area with tape, then give the wood a coat of wax.
12. Cut 2.5cm (1") strips of leather and trim to fit each box, inside the joints as shown. Glue into place, then fix with a few brass pins for decoration.
13. Line the boxes*** then apply another coat of wax before buffing it out and adding (spray) varnish if you like.
14. Stack the small boxes together and check that the completed cube is not more than 16cm (6 1/3") in all dimensions.

*At this stage you have a choice; either cut all the pieces then try and fit them together, or fit each box together as you go. I chose the latter, which meant that each box was ready to move on before I started the next, giving me a sense of completion along the way that you don't get with daunting stack of 60 individual pieces to cut.
**120 grit was enough for me, as I was unsure whether I was going to line them or not.
***I used music paper around the sides and felt on top and bottom. You could just paint or varnish them, the choice is up to you.

Video HERE

Part 2 - A Combination Lock in Wood

This was not quite finished when it came to publishing the video - partly due to a -4C Shed slowing the glue (and affecting finishes, which I didn't attempt in the conditions) I will add notes from the completed box once it is finished.

This plan is rather amorphous because it's unfinished. The dimensions you choose are entirely up to you, but this is the general idea I've gone with...

The back piece (5mm) is a simple support for the dowels with slotted openings to help guide the sliding bolts. For the moving parts I've used 5mm (bolts and supports) and 10mm ply (locks). The support layer is 5mm and provides a separation between the moving parts and the front - I needed to add some shims of veneer for extra space - The front is covered with oak veneer. All the visible edges of ply are painted copper. The dials were supposed to be burned then carved out - and may still be in the final piece - once burned I filed off the loose bits, then wiped them with white spirit to take off the rest.

This is a repeating process, I think I laid in the moving parts a dozen times until I was satisfied with the movement so there isn't an actual method here, more like trial and error, but I have a few notes...

• Make sure all the pieces are accurately cut and drilled.
• Mark the pieces in situ so that you can always put the moving parts in the right place.
• Sand all edges smooth.
• Keep checking the fit after every process.
• Make sure that all glues and finishes are dry before final construction.

Photos to follow soon! (Well, as soon as the Beast from the East and Storm Emma pass)