Patchwork Suitcase

Video HERE

Yes, it sounds rather an odd idea... but I think it worked our quite well (probably because I actually planned things in detail for once!)

If you're up to date with my Monthly Reports you'll know that I spent a large chunk of February making bibs (over 70 at the final count) and in the process I collected about 120x3" pieces of scrap fabric cut from the neck holes of said bibs. Now these scraps aren't really of any use in my other projects, other than for making patchwork - hence the 3-Minute skill I posted last week on the subject and this video.

You will need:
Fabric scraps (And lining scraps of different thicknesses)
Rough paper
Needle and thread (standard cotton thread and sturdy top stitch thread with a large needle)
Scissors
Pins
Large Wooden Suitcase-style box (Or any box you like, bigger is better)
Sandpaper
Tools (Screwdriver and/or craft blade and pliers)
Pen/Pencil
Cardboard (scrap piece will do)
Drill with a small bit (about 1/8" or less)
Fabric-backed PVC
Clamps
Brass pins and hammer
Double-sided tape
Glue and spreader
Lining/Wadding
Cord or String
Super Glue
Clasp and Hinges (If you want to use the ones from the box that's up to you)

Patchwork

1. At roughly 2.5-3" round these pieces limited me to a 2" wide shape and I went with a hexagon - mainly because it's more interesting than a square and easier to sew than a circle. After deciding on my shape I made a template, adding 1/8" on all sides to allow for stitching.
2. To begin with I used my template to mark out and cut out some paper liners using rough (ie. used) copier paper. Trying to work out the exact final dimensions can be difficult so I started with a 6x6 piece of patchwork - which became the little makeup bag you can see in the photos - once sewn together and pressed I was able to work out how many patches I would need for the suitcase lining pieces (see below).
3. To join the patches I started by pinning them to the paper, folding down the corners and edges to make the shapes crisp and accurate. I then placed two patches together paper-sides in and stitched along one side, roughly 1/8" from the edge . (I then doubled back to create a blanket-style stitch, which was probably completely unnecessary, A simple running stitch one way then the other would have sufficed as these are not load-bearing)
4. To make the process more user-friendly I separated the patches into groups of 9 so that I could sew 3x3 pieces and then join them together at a later date - this was particularly useful as I took my work with me and was able to put together smaller sets whilst sitting on my lunch break or in a coffee shop, for example.
5. Once the patchwork was complete I removed the paper liners - most satisfying - and pressed everything flat from the front side - you can try from the back, but all those rough edges just get in my nerves.

The Suitcase

1. Measure the internal dimensions of your box and calculate the amount of lining you will need - add 1-2" just in case, particularly for the bottom. Draw out and cut your patch template from card - follow the stages above to make your patchwork lining.
2. Remove all hardware - hinges and clasps - and sand along the edges and corners to remove any sharp bits.
3. Use your template to mark out a quilt pattern on the top of the box - extending it around the sides if you like. Drill a hole at every corner or intersection.
4. Cut the lining pieces to match the template and layer to create depth. Sew the layers together a few times - not too tight - then place onto the box. (You can go for a random pattern, or try and place the padding in a specific area, whatever you like.) Try to ensure there is at least one layer over each corner to protect the PVC over time.
5. For the bottom, place the bottom box onto the PVC with a good amount of excess on each side. Pull one side up and over the edge, clamp into place, then pull up the opposite side and clamp evenly, but firmly over the edge. Repeat with the other sides. Make sure the fabric is pulled to an even tension across the bottom, then hammer in a few pins along the bottom edge to hold it in place. Remove the clamps.
6. Working one corner at a time cut a tall, slim V-shape up to - but not out of - each corner. Place a piece of double-sided tape across the top of the corner and pull the V-shape up tight to the edge of the box. Repeat with all the corners.
7. Slightly fold the edges of each side piece in as you bring it up over the side of the box. (See diagram) and glue into place. Clamp until dry, then hammer in a few pins for support and decoration.
   
8. Layer the bottom patchwork over your lining and offer it up to the box, pushing it into the edges to make sure that it fits. Cut the lining to fit exactly but give the patchwork at least 1/2" on all sides - do not cut out the corners of the patchwork.
9. Pin the patchwork edges to the lining, then clamp the short ends into place. Tuck the corners back behind the long ends and clamp those into place as well.
10. Working section by section carefully glue the patchwork to the top edge of the box, clamp until set, then secure with pins every 1-2" starting at the corners.
11. For the lid, stick the lining onto the lid with double-sided tape, then place the lid on the PVC, with a generous excess. Pull the edges up and clamp into place, making sure the tension is even.
12. Using top stitch thread and a large needle sew through from the inside of the box around the outside edge of the lid, then remove the clamps and sew around the rest of the pattern, pulling tight as you go.
13. Once the sewing is complete trim and fold over the sides as you did on the bottom, making sure that the PVC covers the inside edge.
14. For the top lining arrange your layers onto a piece of fabric over some lining/wadding cut exactly to size. Sew it into a single pad (much easier this way, trust me) using the same stitch as you used for the patchwork.
15. Cover the inside of the lid with strong glue and press the lining into place, adding weights to ensure even pressure all round, particularly along the edges.
16. To close the corners use the top stitch thread to make a criss-cross stitch, pulling the edges together firmly without stretching the PVC. Apply a thin coat of glue to all the thread to add strength and to help it yellow with age,
17. Add hinges and a clasp - you may need to cut away some of the PVC for things to settle into place, just add a little glue to the edges to stop them peeling back over time.
18. For the handle, braid together your string or cord then double it back on itself to make a roughly 7" strip. Wrap with a little more PVC and stitch the layers together. Glue to the suitcase, then secure with pins.

Yes, it was a lot of work - but worth it! This looks really good, and it feels great too. I love the way that the padding gives the top added dimension and reflects the pattern of the patchwork inside.