Puzzle Box of Boxes

Part 1 - Stacking Boxes
Video HERE

Many years ago I designed and built a puzzle box of boxes from card. Once completed I realized just how ugly it looked and relegated it to the back of my wardrobe, where many prototypes go to die. When I was sorting through my craft things before moving down to the Shed I rediscovered it, covered in cobwebs, sitting there like the last chicken in the shop. In my new found desire to explore making I decided that I would reincarnate this monstrosity in wood, so I transported it down to the shiny new Shed, where it ended up in a corner once more covered in spider constructions. Before closing the Shed for Christmas last year I had a good sort-out and again the beast surfaced... so I decided it's about time I actually did something with it.

I will upload the cutting templates when both videos are up, but be prepared for a lot of copying to get enough pieces for all 10 boxes. I used mostly 5mm plywood because I didn't have enough good quality thin wood, and I think that ply will stand up better to the process (most of the time, some parts really needed to be solid). You should use thicker wood if you're looking to make integrated hinges, or adapt the patterns to fit metal ones, I prefer the look of leather.

Essentially, the making process is all the same thing repeated ten times, with a few necessary differences, but these are the general instructions for construction of the boxes.

You Will Need:
Paper pattern - Copied enough times to make each piece*
Wood -  5 and 10mm Ply, and some pallet wood for the dials
Glue stick or spray adhesive
Sello/Packing Tape
Scroll saw with No.4 reverse tooth blade (or whatever is appropriate to your stock)
Sandpaper - 80 and 120 grit **
Wood Glue
Clamps
Files
Wood Veneer
Copper acrylic paint (optional)
Masking tape
Wax and a cotton cloth
Leather scraps
Small brass pins and hammer
Paper and felt for lining

*As there are multiples of each piece you could layer the wood together with tape and/or pins, or even cut them out of chunky wood then cut to appropriate thickness. I decided that individual pieces would have less risk of mis-cutting batches - trimming was required to help things fit, but I prefer that to losing stacks of blanks along the way.
**A sanding machine is very useful, particularly if you leave way too much excess on the joints like I did.

[Box Plans]

Method:

1. Cut your pattern pieces and fix to the wood securely, then cover both sides with tape.
2. Roughly cut out the small box pieces - I cut them to size first, then stacked each boxes' pieces together before moving on.
3. Carefully cut out the pieces, keeping to the lines especially in the joints.* (Reserve some sawdust for later)
4. For each small box you should mark on a lid and a bottom, then add arrows to the sides so that you can fit them together in the same configuration - this saves on frustration whilst gluing, trust me.
5. Unfold each box and give the inside surfaces a quick sanding** then glue 5 sides together - not the lid, obviously - and clamp together to dry.
6. Once dry sand down the joints until they're flush and round over the edges.
7. Mix sawdust with a little glue for a filler and spread into any gaps - be careful around the lid. Leave to dry, then sand up to 120 grit. 
8. Put the large box aside for now - you can glue in your lining if you want but do not attach the lid.
9. Gently remove the lid, decide on an edge for the hinge and mark with a pencil, then file down the corners of the joints until it moves smoothly. File a small notch at the front of the box for a finger lift.
10. Optional stage - Paint the inner joint surfaces and inside edges with acrylic for a neat finish. Make sure they are COMPLETELY dry before replacing the lid - you may need to file back any grain that rises.
11. With the lid in place mask off the hinge area with tape, then give the wood a coat of wax.
12. Cut 2.5cm (1") strips of leather and trim to fit each box, inside the joints as shown. Glue into place, then fix with a few brass pins for decoration.
13. Line the boxes*** then apply another coat of wax before buffing it out and adding (spray) varnish if you like.
14. Stack the small boxes together and check that the completed cube is not more than 16cm (6 1/3") in all dimensions.

*At this stage you have a choice; either cut all the pieces then try and fit them together, or fit each box together as you go. I chose the latter, which meant that each box was ready to move on before I started the next, giving me a sense of completion along the way that you don't get with daunting stack of 60 individual pieces to cut.
**120 grit was enough for me, as I was unsure whether I was going to line them or not.
***I used music paper around the sides and felt on top and bottom. You could just paint or varnish them, the choice is up to you.

Video HERE

Part 2 - A Combination Lock in Wood

This was not quite finished when it came to publishing the video - partly due to a -4C Shed slowing the glue (and affecting finishes, which I didn't attempt in the conditions) I will add notes from the completed box once it is finished.

This plan is rather amorphous because it's unfinished. The dimensions you choose are entirely up to you, but this is the general idea I've gone with...

The back piece (5mm) is a simple support for the dowels with slotted openings to help guide the sliding bolts. For the moving parts I've used 5mm (bolts and supports) and 10mm ply (locks). The support layer is 5mm and provides a separation between the moving parts and the front - I needed to add some shims of veneer for extra space - The front is covered with oak veneer. All the visible edges of ply are painted copper. The dials were supposed to be burned then carved out - and may still be in the final piece - once burned I filed off the loose bits, then wiped them with white spirit to take off the rest.

This is a repeating process, I think I laid in the moving parts a dozen times until I was satisfied with the movement so there isn't an actual method here, more like trial and error, but I have a few notes...

• Make sure all the pieces are accurately cut and drilled.
• Mark the pieces in situ so that you can always put the moving parts in the right place.
• Sand all edges smooth.
• Keep checking the fit after every process.
• Make sure that all glues and finishes are dry before final construction.

Photos to follow soon! (Well, as soon as the Beast from the East and Storm Emma pass)