Patchwork Suitcase

Video HERE

Yes, it sounds rather an odd idea... but I think it worked our quite well (probably because I actually planned things in detail for once!)

If you're up to date with my Monthly Reports you'll know that I spent a large chunk of February making bibs (over 70 at the final count) and in the process I collected about 120x3" pieces of scrap fabric cut from the neck holes of said bibs. Now these scraps aren't really of any use in my other projects, other than for making patchwork - hence the 3-Minute skill I posted last week on the subject and this video.

You will need:
Fabric scraps (And lining scraps of different thicknesses)
Rough paper
Needle and thread (standard cotton thread and sturdy top stitch thread with a large needle)
Scissors
Pins
Large Wooden Suitcase-style box (Or any box you like, bigger is better)
Sandpaper
Tools (Screwdriver and/or craft blade and pliers)
Pen/Pencil
Cardboard (scrap piece will do)
Drill with a small bit (about 1/8" or less)
Fabric-backed PVC
Clamps
Brass pins and hammer
Double-sided tape
Glue and spreader
Lining/Wadding
Cord or String
Super Glue
Clasp and Hinges (If you want to use the ones from the box that's up to you)

Patchwork

1. At roughly 2.5-3" round these pieces limited me to a 2" wide shape and I went with a hexagon - mainly because it's more interesting than a square and easier to sew than a circle. After deciding on my shape I made a template, adding 1/8" on all sides to allow for stitching.
2. To begin with I used my template to mark out and cut out some paper liners using rough (ie. used) copier paper. Trying to work out the exact final dimensions can be difficult so I started with a 6x6 piece of patchwork - which became the little makeup bag you can see in the photos - once sewn together and pressed I was able to work out how many patches I would need for the suitcase lining pieces (see below).
3. To join the patches I started by pinning them to the paper, folding down the corners and edges to make the shapes crisp and accurate. I then placed two patches together paper-sides in and stitched along one side, roughly 1/8" from the edge . (I then doubled back to create a blanket-style stitch, which was probably completely unnecessary, A simple running stitch one way then the other would have sufficed as these are not load-bearing)
4. To make the process more user-friendly I separated the patches into groups of 9 so that I could sew 3x3 pieces and then join them together at a later date - this was particularly useful as I took my work with me and was able to put together smaller sets whilst sitting on my lunch break or in a coffee shop, for example.
5. Once the patchwork was complete I removed the paper liners - most satisfying - and pressed everything flat from the front side - you can try from the back, but all those rough edges just get in my nerves.

The Suitcase

1. Measure the internal dimensions of your box and calculate the amount of lining you will need - add 1-2" just in case, particularly for the bottom. Draw out and cut your patch template from card - follow the stages above to make your patchwork lining.
2. Remove all hardware - hinges and clasps - and sand along the edges and corners to remove any sharp bits.
3. Use your template to mark out a quilt pattern on the top of the box - extending it around the sides if you like. Drill a hole at every corner or intersection.
4. Cut the lining pieces to match the template and layer to create depth. Sew the layers together a few times - not too tight - then place onto the box. (You can go for a random pattern, or try and place the padding in a specific area, whatever you like.) Try to ensure there is at least one layer over each corner to protect the PVC over time.
5. For the bottom, place the bottom box onto the PVC with a good amount of excess on each side. Pull one side up and over the edge, clamp into place, then pull up the opposite side and clamp evenly, but firmly over the edge. Repeat with the other sides. Make sure the fabric is pulled to an even tension across the bottom, then hammer in a few pins along the bottom edge to hold it in place. Remove the clamps.
6. Working one corner at a time cut a tall, slim V-shape up to - but not out of - each corner. Place a piece of double-sided tape across the top of the corner and pull the V-shape up tight to the edge of the box. Repeat with all the corners.
7. Slightly fold the edges of each side piece in as you bring it up over the side of the box. (See diagram) and glue into place. Clamp until dry, then hammer in a few pins for support and decoration.
   
8. Layer the bottom patchwork over your lining and offer it up to the box, pushing it into the edges to make sure that it fits. Cut the lining to fit exactly but give the patchwork at least 1/2" on all sides - do not cut out the corners of the patchwork.
9. Pin the patchwork edges to the lining, then clamp the short ends into place. Tuck the corners back behind the long ends and clamp those into place as well.
10. Working section by section carefully glue the patchwork to the top edge of the box, clamp until set, then secure with pins every 1-2" starting at the corners.
11. For the lid, stick the lining onto the lid with double-sided tape, then place the lid on the PVC, with a generous excess. Pull the edges up and clamp into place, making sure the tension is even.
12. Using top stitch thread and a large needle sew through from the inside of the box around the outside edge of the lid, then remove the clamps and sew around the rest of the pattern, pulling tight as you go.
13. Once the sewing is complete trim and fold over the sides as you did on the bottom, making sure that the PVC covers the inside edge.
14. For the top lining arrange your layers onto a piece of fabric over some lining/wadding cut exactly to size. Sew it into a single pad (much easier this way, trust me) using the same stitch as you used for the patchwork.
15. Cover the inside of the lid with strong glue and press the lining into place, adding weights to ensure even pressure all round, particularly along the edges.
16. To close the corners use the top stitch thread to make a criss-cross stitch, pulling the edges together firmly without stretching the PVC. Apply a thin coat of glue to all the thread to add strength and to help it yellow with age,
17. Add hinges and a clasp - you may need to cut away some of the PVC for things to settle into place, just add a little glue to the edges to stop them peeling back over time.
18. For the handle, braid together your string or cord then double it back on itself to make a roughly 7" strip. Wrap with a little more PVC and stitch the layers together. Glue to the suitcase, then secure with pins.

Yes, it was a lot of work - but worth it! This looks really good, and it feels great too. I love the way that the padding gives the top added dimension and reflects the pattern of the patchwork inside.

Doughnuts - But not as you know them...

Video HERE

This year I have really been embracing the healthy eating thing, but there is a point in 'healthy' eating where you just crave something naughty... so, rather than running to the corner shop for a bar of high-sugar high-fat not-actually-food I turned to the interweb to find an alternative treat without the calorific load...

This recipe originally came from TV chef Tom Kerridge, but I've adapted it for my taste - and the ingredients I had to hand. These come out at around 90 calories each.

Yes, the spelling in the title card is deliberate!

Ingredients: (Makes 12)
200ml Milk
25g Butter*
1tsp Fast Action Yeast
175g Self Raising Flour
75g Self Raising Wholemeal Flour **

1tsp Baking Powder
2tbsp Granulated Sweetener
1/2tsp Sea Salt
1tsp Cinnamon***

1 Egg, beaten

To Finish:
40g Caster Sugar
1/2tsp Cinnamon

*This is the only fat in these donuts so go with it!
**I initially made these with half wholemeal flour (because I ran out of white) and they turned out very biscuit and crisp, but not bad overall. After some experimenting I found that this ratio, and slightly more milk than the original recipe creates a soft, slightly nutty texture. If you want to just use White flour you will only need 180ml of milk.
***The choice of spice is entirely up to you. Tom uses Chinese five spice, but I really don't like that flavour in sweet things so I went with cinnamon instead.

Method:

1. Lightly grease a 12-ring donut pan.
2. Put the milk and butter into a small pan and heat to melt, it doesn't need to boil.
3. Mix all the dry ingredients in a large bowl.
4. Add the milk and egg and stir until smooth.
5. Spoon into a piping bag and pipe into the pan, roughly 1/2 filling each ring.
6. Loosely cover and leave to rise in a warm place for 1 hour.
7. [Preheat Oven GM7/200C]
8. Bake for 10-14 minutes until risen and browned.*
9. Leave for 10 minutes to cool before removing from the pan.
10.  Mix together the sugar and spice and sprinkle onto a small plate. Brush each donut with a little water and toss to coat.
11. Best eaten whilst still warm or you can freeze the extras (undusted) and nuke in the microwave for 30 seconds before dusting to serve.

*Cooking time varies depending on how much wholemeal flour you use - and how reliable your oven is. These will brown quite quickly so I suggest turning the tray after 10 minutes and then keeping a close eye for the last few.

Easter Basket Fail - Managing Disapointment

Video HERE

My original intention here was to make a scroll saw basket from pallet wood using the natural grain of the wood to create movement and interest...

From the picture above you can see my intention to cut multiple pieces that would slot together creating dovetail keys to hold the sides together... I really did think that the wood would stand up to this design, but my cutting skills were not up to the task and further finessing pretty much caused these pieces to crack apart... It could have been an absolute disaster, but I don't just give up. Think, re-think and reflect.

Instead of scrapping the lot I decided to trim and adapt the main basket pieces to make them fit - It was an ugly process, definitely not carpentry skill, more like hacking and hammering (so more like my usual way with woodworking!) which left sizable gaps that no amount of filling would be able to remedy. I decided to embrace the rustic an go with it.

After gluing the tray together I realized that - although ugly - it was a solid base, so I started with a thin wash of white acrylic, then had a brain wave... It was never going to be pretty or smooth, so why was I trying to make it that way? I mixed a couple of scoops of filler powder with acrylic paint and plastered it all over the wood - particularly in the cracks - deliberately creating texture with brush strokes and lumps. Once dry I rubbed in acrylic yellow, green and blue in random patches that picked out the texture, and then I used a little - cheap and quite liquid - silver to blend and mix the colours into the surface. This creates a great pattern with movement and changes of density and colour that I really like, and will probably try again in a future - planned - project.

When the weather warms I will apply 2-3 coats of varnish to protect the surface - the filler has made it rather more porous than I would like. For the time being I have added a braided yarn handle, I will replace it with a more decorative one at a later date.

Like most things this was a learning experience. I have learned to be more patient and optimistic in the face of failure, and that sitting at a scroll saw in -7C is really not condusive to quality work - or continuing health.

Let your frustrations out.

Manage your disappointment.

Take a step back and look at the parts that do work.

Nothing is wrong with adapting your plan.

Everything is educational.

Embrace the challenges.