Wednesday, February 21, 2018

Essay Writing For Everyone

Video HERE

I am quite passionate about this skill - and it is a skill, not just for school - because being able to condense your thoughts into a formal written conversation is an essential, wherever you are in your studies or career.

These 6 points work for both a set essay and an exam question - obviously you can't walk away from your exam, but being able to separate yourself a little during the given time certainly helps to give you a clearer mind in the final stages.

Current marking theories look for the difference between competence and mastery - using correct terminology, excellent grammar and punctuation and logical progression of argument - so bear these in mind.

1. Preparation
  • Do the damned reading! (A really skilled student could manage a pass-level essay with just Cliff notes/Cambridge reader/class notes, but there is NO REPLACEMENT for actually reading the text!)
  • Make notes - I always fill my books with post-its, colour coded for characterization/historical references/questions raised.
  • As you read the particular themes and patterns of the story will become apparent, and will give clues to the type of exam question you'll get.
  • Do further reading. Depending on your level this might just be a bit of historical or social research, further studies will require knowledge of critical theories - feminist or Freudian readings for example - usually directed by your tutor. Advanced studies at degree level will require you to seek out your own critical sources, which can be difficult - your tutor will have guidelines relevant to your subject.
  • Studying English literature often leads you to performances - either stage or screen - try and watch as many as you can as some essays will benefit from it. Watching a production also helps you to understand more complex story lines (particularly in Shakespeare) but remember that your essay is about the text, unless otherwise stated, don't get too caught up in the acting choices.
2. Planning
  • Dissect the question. What is the question asking? Compare, Explore, Discuss, Explain?
  • What sources do you need? Main text, class-led reading, self-led research.
  • Re-read your text with the question in mind, remove notes that are not relevant (this is where post-its come in handy) and clarify those that are.
  • How many points of argument/discussion do you have? Order them with a logical progression.
  • What is your word count? Set aside 2-300 for introduction and conclusion then divide the remainder between the points you have left, about 1-200 each.
  • ALWAYS INCLUDE PLANNING IN AN EXAM. It should only take a few minutes, but if you run out of time the assessor can see where you were intending to go and can allow for your intentions in their marking.
3. Writing
  • Explain each point in turn, give a quote for evidence, back up with research/further reading.
  • What is your opinion? Can you add something interesting to the argument - the assessor will appreciate an original idea IF it is well written with appropriate references. Don't fill an essay with all your own opinions, you need to discuss those already given in your sources first, one or two of your own ideas towards the end show the understanding you have developed through your reading.
  • PRINT HARDCOPIES ON A REGULAR BASIS! Never rely on technology, it is easier to rebuild from here - trust me on this!
4. Editing Part 1
  • Have I answered the question? Make sure that you are on-topic throughout, a brilliantly written argument will gain you no points if it is not relevant to the question.
5. Re-Read and Conclusion
  • Take a moment away from writing to re-read the text in full. In an exam this gives you a few minutes to relax and re-focus for the final push.
  • For a set essay this should be at least a day. Go somewhere outside, walk in the park, play sports. Do something different.
  • Now you can write your introduction and conclusion.
6. Final Edit and Housekeeping
  • Check for clarity, flow, grammar, punctuation.
  • Read aloud if you can, or aloud in you head (if you get what I mean)
  • Check your references and bibliography.

Always leave yourself time before deadline - at least 24 hours in case of technical issues. Keep a hardcopy for yourself.

DO NOT USE ESSAY-WRITING SERVICES!

In an exam of 2 hours you should split the time generally as follows;

10min Read text and make notes.
10min Planning
1hr Writing
10min First Edit
10min Re-read Source
10min Introduction and Conclusion
5min Final Edit
+5min

A set essay with a deadline - assuming a month lead-in;
1-7th Preliminary planning - dissect the question then continue on to Reading and Research
8th - Planning
9-19th Writing (I'm not expecting anyone to spend all day for 10 days working on this. It's easier to do a bit every day so that you're refreshed in between, or you could go at it for a whole day. Whichever way works for you to get the main bulk of the essay done in this period)
19th - First Edit
20th-25th Re-read Source and go outside for at least a day.
25th - Introduction and Conclusion
26th - Final Edit of Text.
27th - Referencing and Bibliography (You should have been putting this together as you progressed, now is the time to get everything in order using the appropriate system)
28th -  Deadline

This system has taken some time to work out, but it certainly works for me. However long you have before deadline you should always start with a general plan as soon as you get the question, which will give you an idea of what you are looking for in the reading. Although you can probably write a passable essay in a week, I always aim for at least 14 days for the chance to show real mastery of the text and your writing skills. Reading can take months, but sooner or later you're going to have to sit down and write.

A last-minute caffeine-fueled rant on a page will always be recognizable by the stench of panic in the writing. If you're given time to do the work, actually DO THE WORK!

Turk-ish Pie (Healthy Recipe Experiment)

Turk-ish Pie

Video HERE

Cottage and Shepherd's Pie* are classic comfort foods, but they are relatively high in fat and carbs so I have been trying to develop a healthier option using turkey... I'm not quite there yet, but this is my working recipe.

*Have you ever wondered about the name? Shepherd's pie is pretty much self-explanatory, being made with lamb, but how does 'cottage' equate to beef? I actually did some research on this (I had a free hour) and discovered that the 'cottage' comes from fork marks made in the potato topping, which is supposed to look like the straw thatched roof of an old-fashioned cottage... you learn something new every day!

Ingredients: (This makes enough turkey 'ragu' for 4 individual pies, or 1 big one in a baking dish roughly 20x30cm 8x12"*)
1 Red Onion, chopped
2-3 Carrots, chopped
1-2 Celery sticks, chopped
1/2 Yellow or Orange Pepper**
4-6 Sweet Potatoes, peeled and chopped
1 Large-ish Potato, chopped slightly smaller than the sweet***
4-500g Turkey Mince
1 Low-Salt Chicken Stock Cube
1tbsp Cumin
1tbsp Garam Masala
2tsp Turmeric
1tbsp Dried Thyme
1tbsp Dried Savory or Oregano
1/4 tsp White Pepper
1-2tsp Garlic Powder
1/2tsp Dijon Mustard
2tbsp Tomato Puree
Splash Red Wine
1/2 - 1tsp Chili Flakes
Nutmeg
Cup of Frozen Peas
75-100g Feta Cheese****
1-2tbsp Low-Fat Spread

*This 'ragu' also goes well with pasta - wholewheat ideally - or brown rice, or even spooned over a jacket potato.
**Pepper and red onion add a slight sweetness, which balances the bitter edge of celery and replaces my usual squirt of tomato ketchup - all the veg in this recipe will give you at least 3 of your 5-a-day.
***I always peel sweet potatoes, their skins tend to be rather ratty, often concealing large spots, but leave the skins on carrots and regular potatoes (unless you're roasting them) to retain vitamins.
****I am not adding salt to this ragu, so the cheese provides a flavour burst instead.

Method:
  1. Prep and chop your vegetables.
  2. Put the potato into a pan with a pinch of salt and bring to a boil. Once tender, drain and mash with the low fat spread. Season with pepper and nutmeg, then set aside.
  3. In a wide frying pan put the carrot and celery, cover with water and bring to a simmer. Cook until almost dry then tip into a bowl.*
  4. Cook the onion in a little oil until well browned, then add the turkey.
  5. Break up the mince and cook until almost dry - turkey releases a lot of water - before adding half the cumin and turmeric. Stir through and cook until fragrant.
  6. Put the stock cube, cumin, turmeric, herbs, pepper, garlic, mustard and puree into a jug and pour on 400ml boiling water. Stir to dissolve then leave to steep for 1-2 minutes.
  7. Add the carrot and celery - and any remaining water - to the mince. Stir well, then cook until dry before adding the stock and bringing to a boil.
  8. Reduce to a simmer and cook for 5 minutes before adding the chili and wine.**
  9. Cook for a further 5 minutes, then stir in the pepper and peas and cook for 2 minutes.
  10. Remove from the heat, stir in the remaining garam masala and spoon into oven-proof dishes.
  11. Crumble the cheese on top, then spoon on the potato and smooth over the surface.*** If you want you can add a sprinkling of breadcrumbs for a better finish, or fork over the mash.
  12. Set the pies aside until ready to bake.
  13. Bake at GM7 (200C) for 30-45 minutes, depending on size.
*You don't have to simmer the carrot and celery if you cut it fine enough, but we prefer chunkier veg which needs to be part-cooked. You can do this in one pan if you have the time and patience, I prefer to have 2 pans running - start the simmering and onion together and the veg is usually ready to tip into the meat at about the right time.
**If you want this spicier you can add the chili with the stock, and/or add 1/4 - 1/2tsp chili powder.
***Feta doesn't really brown like cheddar does, but it does melt slightly and I think it's better to have it oozing through the ragu rather than plonked on the top.

Wednesday, February 7, 2018

Puzzle Box of Boxes


Part 1 - Stacking Boxes
Video HERE

Many years ago I designed and built a puzzle box of boxes from card. Once completed I realized just how ugly it looked and relegated it to the back of my wardrobe, where many prototypes go to die. When I was sorting through my craft things before moving down to the Shed I rediscovered it, covered in cobwebs, sitting there like the last chicken in the shop. In my new found desire to explore making I decided that I would reincarnate this monstrosity in wood, so I transported it down to the shiny new Shed, where it ended up in a corner once more covered in spider constructions. Before closing the Shed for Christmas last year I had a good sort-out and again the beast surfaced... so I decided it's about time I actually did something with it.

I will upload the cutting templates when both videos are up, but be prepared for a lot of copying to get enough pieces for all 10 boxes. I used mostly 5mm plywood because I didn't have enough good quality thin wood, and I think that ply will stand up better to the process (most of the time, some parts really needed to be solid). You should use thicker wood if you're looking to make integrated hinges, or adapt the patterns to fit metal ones, I prefer the look of leather.

Essentially, the making process is all the same thing repeated ten times, with a few necessary differences, but these are the general instructions for construction of the boxes.

You Will Need:
Paper pattern - Copied enough times to make each piece*
Wood -  5 and 10mm Ply, and some pallet wood for the dials
Glue stick or spray adhesive
Sello/Packing Tape
Scroll saw with No.4 reverse tooth blade (or whatever is appropriate to your stock)
Sandpaper - 80 and 120 grit **
Wood Glue
Clamps
Files
Wood Veneer
Copper acrylic paint (optional)
Masking tape
Wax and a cotton cloth
Leather scraps
Small brass pins and hammer
Paper and felt for lining

*As there are multiples of each piece you could layer the wood together with tape and/or pins, or even cut them out of chunky wood then cut to appropriate thickness. I decided that individual pieces would have less risk of mis-cutting batches - trimming was required to help things fit, but I prefer that to losing stacks of blanks along the way.
**A sanding machine is very useful, particularly if you leave way too much excess on the joints like I did.

[Box Plans]

Method:
  1. Cut your pattern pieces and fix to the wood securely, then cover both sides with tape.
  2. Roughly cut out the small box pieces - I cut them to size first, then stacked each boxes' pieces together before moving on.
  3. Carefully cut out the pieces, keeping to the lines especially in the joints.* (Reserve some sawdust for later)
  4. For each small box you should mark on a lid and a bottom, then add arrows to the sides so that you can fit them together in the same configuration - this saves on frustration whilst gluing, trust me.
  5. Unfold each box and give the inside surfaces a quick sanding** then glue 5 sides together - not the lid, obviously - and clamp together to dry.
  6. Once dry sand down the joints until they're flush and round over the edges.
  7. Mix sawdust with a little glue for a filler and spread into any gaps - be careful around the lid. Leave to dry, then sand up to 120 grit. 
  8. Put the large box aside for now - you can glue in your lining if you want but do not attach the lid.
  9. Gently remove the lid, decide on an edge for the hinge and mark with a pencil, then file down the corners of the joints until it moves smoothly. File a small notch at the front of the box for a finger lift.
  10. Optional stage - Paint the inner joint surfaces and inside edges with acrylic for a neat finish. Make sure they are COMPLETELY dry before replacing the lid - you may need to file back any grain that rises.
  11. With the lid in place mask off the hinge area with tape, then give the wood a coat of wax.
  12. Cut 2.5cm (1") strips of leather and trim to fit each box, inside the joints as shown. Glue into place, then fix with a few brass pins for decoration.
  13. Line the boxes*** then apply another coat of wax before buffing it out and adding (spray) varnish if you like.
  14. Stack the small boxes together and check that the completed cube is not more than 16cm (6 1/3") in all dimensions.
*At this stage you have a choice; either cut all the pieces then try and fit them together, or fit each box together as you go. I chose the latter, which meant that each box was ready to move on before I started the next, giving me a sense of completion along the way that you don't get with daunting stack of 60 individual pieces to cut.
**120 grit was enough for me, as I was unsure whether I was going to line them or not.
***I used music paper around the sides and felt on top and bottom. You could just paint or varnish them, the choice is up to you.

Video HERE

Part 2 - A Combination Lock in Wood

This was not quite finished when it came to publishing the video - partly due to a -4C Shed slowing the glue (and affecting finishes, which I didn't attempt in the conditions) I will add notes from the completed box once it is finished.

This plan is rather amorphous because it's unfinished. The dimensions you choose are entirely up to you, but this is the general idea I've gone with...
The back piece (5mm) is a simple support for the dowels with slotted openings to help guide the sliding bolts. For the moving parts I've used 5mm (bolts and supports) and 10mm ply (locks). The support layer is 5mm and provides a separation between the moving parts and the front - I needed to add some shims of veneer for extra space - The front is covered with oak veneer. All the visible edges of ply are painted copper. The dials were supposed to be burned then carved out - and may still be in the final piece - once burned I filed off the loose bits, then wiped them with white spirit to take off the rest.

This is a repeating process, I think I laid in the moving parts a dozen times until I was satisfied with the movement so there isn't an actual method here, more like trial and error, but I have a few notes...

  • Make sure all the pieces are accurately cut and drilled.
  • Mark the pieces in situ so that you can always put the moving parts in the right place.
  • Sand all edges smooth.
  • Keep checking the fit after every process.
  • Make sure that all glues and finishes are dry before final construction.

Photos to follow soon! (Well, as soon as the Beast from the East and Storm Emma pass)