Wednesday, August 30, 2017

How to make Smart Bibs


Video HERE

This is a project I have been planning since the last time I made bibs, and - I hope - one that will be as popular...

You Will Need:
Smart Bib Pattern (below)
Jacket-style Fabric (Pinstripe, Linen or whatever you like)
Shirt Fabric (Cotton or Poly)
Printed Lining Fabric
11x15" (27x37cm) Thin Supporting Fabric (old bedsheets or similar)
Brightly Coloured Scraps
Plain Paper
Buttons
Sewing Machine
Matching Threads
Fabric Glue
Pres Studs

Method:
  1. Wash and press your fabric.*
  2. Mark out the fabric pieces and cut with 1/2" (1cm) sewing allowance. Per bib you will need one lining, one of each lapel, one pocket and tie then two front, one reversed and four shirt collar, two of each reversed.
  3. To begin with sew the lapels onto the front sides, only sewing along the lapel edges. Trim, turn and press firmly.**
  4. Draw the pattern - particularly the marks indicating the tops of the lapels, the middle of the neck-hole and the bottom of the jacket flaps. - onto your thin fabric.
  5. Pin the tie in the centre of the fabric, folding in the top edges - let the point sit 1/2" (1cm) above the line of the neck hole.
  6. Arrange the left side on the fabric, aligning the marks, then sew along the fold.
  7. Fold back the lapel and pin in place, then arrange the right side on the fabric. Neatly sew along the fold, down the front and across the bottom edge (if you've gone for the design change suggested above).
  8. Pin the other lapel down. Using the pattern mark the outer line of the bib front and decide where you want your pocket to sit*** and sew it into place.
  9. Sew a couple of buttons onto the front - make sure the stitching is very strong.****
  10. Make sure the fabric at the top of the bib does not overlap and pin into place.
  11. Sew the shirt collar pieces together along the bottom edges, leaving the neck-side open, clip and turn***** then pin the top edge in place so that you can fold the collar up.
  12. Apply a small amount of fabric glue to the top corner of the lapels, fold down the collar and leave to set.
  13. Pin the collar into place, then place the lining right-side down on the jacket front. Pin firmly into place - marking out a 2" (5cm) gap for turning in one side - then sew around the outline.
  14. Trim and clip carefully around the neck hole then turn right-side out and press firmly, particularly over the collar and lapels.
  15. Top-stitch around the edge, starting from beneath the lapel.******
  16. Apply press studs or other fixings - I do not use buttons on these, I prefer fixings that will snap open under pressure.
*For some reason I did this partway through the process... prior preparation is best practice, tho.
**If your fabric is thin you may need to use some interfacing to provide support, or a piece of doubled-up cotton.
***I folded the pocket fabric around a piece of paper to help it keep its shape - just remember to pull it out when you're finished.
****You can thread through some nylon beading thread, well-fixed on the back, or dab the threads in front with clear nail varnish.
*****I cut templates from plain paper about 2mm wider than the pattern then sew through the edges of the paper. When you turn them through the paper adds more stability and a crispness akin to starching - leave the paper in place.
******If you want to stop sewing around the bottom edge, then hand-sew to create a neat edge between the jacket fronts.



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