How to make Smart Bibs

Video HERE

This is a project I have been planning since the last time I made bibs, and - I hope - one that will be as popular...

You Will Need:
Smart Bib Pattern (below)
Jacket-style Fabric (Pinstripe, Linen or whatever you like)
Shirt Fabric (Cotton or Poly)
Printed Lining Fabric
11x15" (27x37cm) Thin Supporting Fabric (old bedsheets or similar)
Brightly Coloured Scraps
Plain Paper
Buttons
Sewing Machine
Matching Threads
Fabric Glue
Pres Studs

Method:

1. Wash and press your fabric.*
2. Mark out the fabric pieces and cut with 1/2" (1cm) sewing allowance. Per bib you will need one lining, one of each lapel, one pocket and tie then two front, one reversed and four shirt collar, two of each reversed.
3. To begin with sew the lapels onto the front sides, only sewing along the lapel edges. Trim, turn and press firmly.**
4. Draw the pattern - particularly the marks indicating the tops of the lapels, the middle of the neck-hole and the bottom of the jacket flaps. - onto your thin fabric.
5. Pin the tie in the centre of the fabric, folding in the top edges - let the point sit 1/2" (1cm) above the line of the neck hole.
6. Arrange the left side on the fabric, aligning the marks, then sew along the fold.
7. Fold back the lapel and pin in place, then arrange the right side on the fabric. Neatly sew along the fold, down the front and across the bottom edge (if you've gone for the design change suggested above).
8. Pin the other lapel down. Using the pattern mark the outer line of the bib front and decide where you want your pocket to sit*** and sew it into place.
9. Sew a couple of buttons onto the front - make sure the stitching is very strong.****
10. Make sure the fabric at the top of the bib does not overlap and pin into place.
11. Sew the shirt collar pieces together along the bottom edges, leaving the neck-side open, clip and turn***** then pin the top edge in place so that you can fold the collar up.
12. Apply a small amount of fabric glue to the top corner of the lapels, fold down the collar and leave to set.
13. Pin the collar into place, then place the lining right-side down on the jacket front. Pin firmly into place - marking out a 2" (5cm) gap for turning in one side - then sew around the outline.
14. Trim and clip carefully around the neck hole then turn right-side out and press firmly, particularly over the collar and lapels.
15. Top-stitch around the edge, starting from beneath the lapel.******
16. Apply press studs or other fixings - I do not use buttons on these, I prefer fixings that will snap open under pressure.

*For some reason I did this partway through the process... prior preparation is best practice, tho.
**If your fabric is thin you may need to use some interfacing to provide support, or a piece of doubled-up cotton.
***I folded the pocket fabric around a piece of paper to help it keep its shape - just remember to pull it out when you're finished.
****You can thread through some nylon beading thread, well-fixed on the back, or dab the threads in front with clear nail varnish.
*****I cut templates from plain paper about 2mm wider than the pattern then sew through the edges of the paper. When you turn them through the paper adds more stability and a crispness akin to starching - leave the paper in place.
******If you want to stop sewing around the bottom edge, then hand-sew to create a neat edge between the jacket fronts.

Paint Pouring - Notes on My first Attempt

Video HERE

Not actually the video I promised to publish this week... small problem with the memory card deleted the whole thing, plus a couple of other projects... not happy, but these things will happen (usually when I think I'm all organized and get things done ahead of deadline!)

Peter Brown published a video on resin pouring a couple of months ago, and it looked really good, so I was tempted to do one of my own, however, I don't have a seemingly endless stock of resin... which led me to paint pouring instead. This is pretty much the same technique, but for about 10% of the price...

You will need:
Wooden Box or a sheet of wood*
Screwdriver
Acrylic Paints
Brush
Sandpaper
Masking Tape (optional)
Newspaper or something to cover your surface
Blocks of some kind to lift the wood off the surface
Apron + Gloves
Disposable Cups**
PVA Glue
Water
Spray Lubricant (I use WD40)
Stirring Sticks
Heat Tool (optional)
Varnish

*Whatever size or shape you like. The usual choice is a sheet of ply or MDF. I used a selection of small craft shop standard boxes - pine sided, ply top. I half expected this to be a failure so I wasn't going to use anything more expensive - and thinking of that I don't think an expensive wood would benefit from this technique anyway. So go cheap, just remember to do a good job of the preparation before you start.
**I used plastic, you can use paper. A standard sized cup for mixing the colours and a shot glass for the pouring. Obviously, something bigger will be required for larger pieces.

Method:*

1. Prepare your wood/boxes. Remove the fittings then fill any cracks or splits and sand smooth, raise the grain with water and sand smooth - to 180 at least, you will not be able to go back and finish the wood after pouring.
2. Use a base coat of acrylic or primer, then sand again.** If you're aiming for a clean edge then use tape to mask off as required - a good smooth finish will also help to keep a crisp line and reduce bleed-through. You can paint the overall body of the box now to save a stage later, or wait and use the top coat to cover any spills or unwanted drips later.
3. Arrange your wood over some newspaper on raised blocks to allow for the excess to drip off. MAKE SURE it is level in all directions.
4. Mix your paint. Start with 50:50 paint:PVA, then mix in enough water to get a consistency like cream. Spray in a little lubricant.
5. Add a splash of 3-4 colours into a small cup, with another spray of lubricant - let them settle however they will, do not stir.
6. Invert the cup onto the wood and allow it to sit for a few seconds before pulling it off. Gently tip the wood so that the paint flows across the surface evenly.
7. You can swipe once or twice with  a stirring stick or piece of plastic to encourage mixing, but DON'T FIDDLE or the colours will get muddy. You can also add more paint in small additions, but be careful not to smother the patterns as they emerge.
8. If you have a heat tool use it to gently blow the paint and also make it more fluid.
9. Leave to dry for at least 2 days, the lubricant will slow this process considerably.
10. Once dry remove any masking tape and apply top coat of body colour and varnish to finish.***
11. If required, you can add a strip of ribbon to accentuate (or hide) the transition.

* I suspect that much of what I did was wrong so have a look at some of the other videos online before you start. This is what I think is the ideal approach...
**Like most woodworkers I hate sanding, but this really benefits from a good foundation. If using acrylic as a base give the top a very good sanding to break the surface up and reduce beading.
***I lined with felt and stuck some foam on the bottoms because I like the neater finish.

I started this with 6 boxes of different shapes, expecting them all to go wrong... however, only 1 box was a fail and that was down to me not being able to leave it alone to dry. I just kept fiddling until the colours turned muddy, but 1 out of 6 isn't bad for a first attempt!

There is no real way of predicting how this technique will look, the colours marble together and mingle in odd ways that also change as they dry, continuing to blend because of the lubricant. I have plans for some more of these, and perhaps a few boards to sell as art... the future is bright... it might actually include resin!

3-Minute Skills - How to Make Lemon (or any fruit) Curd

Video HERE

This can be a rather scary thing to attempt, and I have made many pans of fruity scrambled eggs in my time, but my failures are the key to your success...

I often vary the quantity of fruit to egg for different final thicknesses depending on what the curd is intended for. This recipe will get you a fairly thick, although not completely set, curd using citrus fruits, other fruits have differing levels of acid and can affect the final consistency as it is the egg mixing with heat and acid that create the curd texture.

Nb. Some recipes require thickening agents like cornflour. This not only thickens and stabilizes curds with imbalanced acid but helps to stop curdling if the curd is cooked again - ie. in a tart or pie. I would never suggest using cornflour or other starches in a jarred spreading curd like this... bouncy school custard-style curd is NEVER good on toast!

Ingredients: (Makes 1x350-400ml Jar - ish)
Zest and Juice of 4 Lemons (See Below)
6 Egg Yolks*
220g Caster Sugar
80g Butter, cubed, room temperature
YOU WILL NEED: Jam jars - Even if the recipe says it only makes so much I always prepare at least one extra, or a couple of the little gift-size jars. For this video I ended up with 2 full jars and enough to fill a cake.
*However you choose to separate them - I prefer the saucer and egg cup method -  I suggest that you do them BEFORE making a cake that would use any whole eggs that break in the cracking... just a thought. You can add 1 whole egg if it breaks, but it is the protein in the whites that is more likely to set during cooking.

Method:

1. Wash your jars in hot soapy water (as hot as you can stand) then place in the oven at 90C/GM1 until ready to use. Or run them through a hot wash cycle of your dishwasher - try and time it that you use them whilst still hot, do not put anything inside the jars before the curd.
2. Put the lemon zest and juice into a bowl over a bain marie.*
3. Measure the sugar into another bowl and whisk in the egg yolks then pour into the lemon juice with the butter and turn on the heat.
4. With a bain marie you can be rather relaxed until the butter melts, stir occasionally, but don't leave the kitchen. In a pan you must maintain constant motion with a whisk, do not allow the pan to bubble - lift it off the heat if it's getting too hot.
5. Once the butter melts switch to a wooden spoon and stir. And stir. And stir.
6. When your arm feels lit it's going to fall off, stir some more.**
7. When the mixture reaches about 68-70C it will begin to thicken and coat the sides of the bowl as you stir. When you can lift up your spoon and draw a clear line along the back then it's pretty much done. If you want it a little thicker then continue for a couple more minutes, but don't over do it as the curd will solidify as it cools anyway.
8. OPTIONAL STEP - If you're particular about texture, or using another fruit with seeds, you can sieve the curd whilst it's still hot.
9. Remove the bowl from the heat and stir for 1 minute to cool slightly before pouring into hot sterilized jars. Twist the lids on, you don't need to do them up really tight, and leave to cool.
10. Once cooled to room temperature press the top of the lids, if the safety button depresses then put that jar in the fridge and use it first. Those that are properly sealed will keep for 4-6 months. Once opened, scoff within a month.

*The choice is yours, whether to go slow or fast with this. The bain marie takes longer, but is less likely to overcook and in a pan on LOW heat takes about 1/3 of the time. HOWEVER, you cannot leave the pan for a second or stop stirring so take the phone off the hook and lock the kids in a soft play area. Distractions make for a bowl of scrambled lemon!
** Slight exaggeration here. If you're only doing one quantity it should only take 10-15 minutes to start thickening. If - like me - you're doing a monster triple batch with less yolks then it will take forever. Having a kindly family member who can take over for a few minutes whilst you dive to the loo is quite handy.

Which Fruit Can I Curd?
Pretty much anything is the simple answer, although it works better with fruits that are acidic like citrus (duh), tropical fruits or berries.

Apples and pears can be used, but there is something called Apple Butter, which is the same but different - and doesn't use eggs, or butter (sometimes) so might be a better option for your vegan friends.

When adapting for other fruits you will need around 180ml of juice or puree for this recipe, you may need to add a squeeze of lemon or lime to increase the acid - this you will have to experiment with.

Of your fruit has seeds you can strain it first, or push through a sieve once it's cooked. I think the end result has a better flavour if it's cooked all together as much as possible (No, I don't mean the furry bits of kiwi) With something like passion fruit I prefer to cook the pulp, then strain at the end and add a spoonful of seeds to the jar for identification and aesthetics.

Banana can work, but you need to match it with early strawberries and a good squeeze of lemon or lime.

Chocolate Fudge Cake (Slightly Lighter than Normal!)

Video HERE

Yes, I have already done a chocolate cake, but this one was a special request for a friend's birthday.

He wanted a slightly lighter version so I've gone for a chocolate mousse filling and the fudge on the outside... we also discussed jam. I know you cake purists will be having kittens at the thought of adding fruit to a chocolate fudge cake, but he and I both like the idea - although we argued over which fruit to go with. I like cherry - for that Black Forest vibe, but he wanted raspberry... he won in the end because it was his cake - and I forgot to pick up cherry jam when I went shopping, so I went with what I had in the fridge... all in all, actually a rather nice cake...

Still, I would have preferred cherry...

This cake does contain butter, and I would usually avoid chilling a butter cake because it gets a bit tough and rocky, but the addition of golden syrup and almonds stabilizes the sponge so that it can be chilled for the filling to set and for keeping - up to 3 days uncut, another 2 before it starts to get hard. I have never known a chocolate cake to last longer than that...

Ingredients:
FUDGE*
250g Butter
250g Dark Chocolate (50% cocoa max, otherwise it is too bitter)
4tbsp Milk
60g Sugar (Brown Sugar also works well here)
1/2 tsp Vanilla
MOUSSE
100g Dark Chocolate (At least 70% cocoa, the bitterness will be smoothed out by the cream)
150ml Double Cream
CAKE
175g Butter, softened
175g Plain Flour
175g Caster Sugar
40g Ground Almonds
40g Cocoa Powder
3tbsp Golden Syrup
3 Eggs
2tsp Baking Powder
4-5tbsp Raspberry (or cherry) Jam
100g White Chocolate, grated**

*Half of this fudge recipe will be enough to cover the cake if you're filling it with mousse, the rest can be frozen or kept for topping ice cream and things of that nature.
**If you put the bar in the freezer for 30 minutes it will grate evenly and not melt as fast in warm hands. Beware, it will gain a static charge that makes it stick to EVERYTHING! and once grated the flakes melt fast so keep it in the fridge until needed.

Method:
[Preheat Oven 180C/GM4]

1. Grease and line 2x 25cm(10") cake tins.
2. Cream together the butter and sugar until light and fluffy.
3. Add the eggs one at a time, with a little flour to help stop it curdling.*
4. Sift in the flour, cocoa and baking powder, then fold gently until just combined.
5. Stir through the almonds and syrup, then add enough milk to make a dropping consistency.**
6. Divide between your tins and bake for 30-35 minutes until a skewer or toothpick comes out clean.
7. Cool in the tins for 10-15 minutes, then turn onto racks to cool completely.
8. For the fudge, melt the butter in a pan over low heat. Add the chocolate and stir until melted, then add the sugar, milk and vanilla. Stir until dissolved. Pour into a bowl to cool then chill for 1-2 hours until spreadable.***
9. For the mousse, melt the chocolate, then leave to cool slightly. Whip the cream until it holds its shape, then fold through the chocolate.
10. Construction - Place one cake top-down on your serving dish**** and spread on the jam in an even layer, then a dollop of mousse. Top with the other cake top-up and cover with mousse. If you have time chill for 30 minutes before spreading over the fudge and covering with white chocolate. Chill for at least 1 hour before serving and keep the leftovers - if there are any - covered in the fridge.

*If your eggs and butter are both at room temperature this shouldn't happen... although a teaspoon of flour with each egg doesn't do any harm if you're worried.
**This can take between 4-6 tablespoons of milk, add a little and stir through each time until the mixture drops thickly off your spoon - you can't add more flour if you go overboard.
***If this gets too hot it has a tendency to split as it cools. Do not worry, just give it a stir every now and then and it will come back together.
****Or on the lid of your cake tin, which was completely unsuitable... but more stable for transporting than any other option I had available.

Salt & Pepper (Pallet Wood & Veneer) Pot

Video HERE

This is a rather classic scroll saw project... not really like me at all, but I was in need of a new seasoning pot... So I won't bother with a pattern here, It was just a few 8cm circles cut from pallet wood with the insides cut out of the middle layers.

I know my limitations (and the limited patience I have with sanding) so I set out with the intention to NOT make a smooth pot, but rather to embrace the variations between the pieces and just sand the joins to match... I think it actually looks better this way, and it has a more interesting feel.

A few notes if you want to make a similar pot...

• Pallet wood by its very nature is rough, if you have a plainer or jointer then there should be no problem - otherwise a sheet of very rough grit sandpaper and some elbow grease will come in handy. Rather than prepping the whole boards I only sanded the pieces after they were cut to reduce the work required.
• I had to glue the layers together in a couple of stages because I do not have enough large clamps (and trying to align the openings either side of the veneer would have been almost impossible in a stack). Either way works fine, but I do like an easy life!
• As I said before, I only sanded enough to smooth the transitions between pieces on the outside - the insides had a bit more taken out so that grains of salt and pepper don't have a place to get stuck.
• I decided to whittle the lids and base to add to that rustic look, but a round-over bit would have created a neater edge.
• My pyrography tool didn't like this wood much, it took 3 passes to get a decent level of burn, perhaps if I had one of those with temperature settings it would have been easier... although, having to make repeated passes allowed me to vary the darkness of the script.
• When finishing I rubbed in a little wax, but only about 1/4" in to the pot and then turned the pot upside down before using spray varnish so that nothing got inside - although I'm not sure whether salt or pepper would take a taint from these things, it's best to err on the side of caution.

This project has given me ideas for more layered pots... I think I may even try to go for a yin-yang shape in future.