Leather Scales Handbag

Video HERE

When I first started crafting officially about a decade ago I began with greetings cards and handbags, but soon found out that EVERYBODY does cards - and thus the market at craft fairs is saturated, and although people appreciate an interesting design, the vast majority of people are not willing to pay an appropriate price for a handmade bag when they can purchase one - probably made by a child - from their local semi-designer store for under £10. [This is my experience, you own local fairs may be frequented by a different class of customer.] From time to time I do occasionally make handbags, mostly for friends and family - but not for a sensible price.

I have used this basic satchel-style bag template since the last century. It can be adapted to almost any design as long as you keep the relative shapes in proportion. By all means, you can avoid the leather working portion of this make and use any sturdy fabric for the outside - generally PVC or some thick fabric will work... anything that's too thin will require extra support and lining to maintain the shape. I usually use a nice patterned inside and something contrasting for the pockets, but the choice is entirely up to you.

When drawing up this design I decided on a deeper bottom, which adds volume to the shape and creates a deceptively spacious inside. Add as many pockets as you need, but I would suggest no more than 2 for a realistically useful bag... nothing worse than trying to dig through every pocket to find something (particularly when you're in a busy place with commuters of the like tutting over your shoulder at the handful of sanitary towels you've just sprayed across the station floor... am I speaking from experience?... probably) I usually make a list of the things I absolutely have to carry and work from there, but be sensible, you don't need each individual item to have its own pouch - although a couple of pen loops always come in handy. If you're not going with leather scales then the flap of your bag can be decorated however you like, some of these are good examples...

[Pics coming as soon as I can find the disk with my old designs on...]

To Make My Leather Scales Handbag You Will Need:
Leather Scraps*
Cardboard Template (See Above)
Scrap Paper and Pen/Pencil
Scissors
Outer Fabric
Embroidery Thread
Cotton Thread
Needles - large and small
Leather Worker's Thimble and Stitching Tools (If you have some)
Or A Hammer, Nail and Cork Mat or Pencil Eraser
Bulldog Clips (If possible)
Or Pins
Zips (If using, buttons and flaps are also good)
Pocket Lining
Lining Fabric
Metal Rings**
Nylon Webbing***

*I have a box of offcuts purchased online, any scraps of thin leather will do. Alternatively, you can use something like felt or PVC that does not fray... even denim can work, if you cover the back of the fabric with glue to seal the threads in before cutting.
**I use curtain rings, they usually have about 2" diameter and are quite solid. Alternatively you could just sew the strap into the bag without them.
***Depending on how much work you want to do on the strap you can just use webbing alone or laminate some between fabrics like I did.

Method:

1. First draw out your template on scrap paper and use it to work out how many scales you'll need for the flap and/or the inside.* I suggest something more solid for the back as it will rub against the body when in use.
2. Transfer the template to the wrong side of your outer fabric and begin to apply the scales from the bottom of the flap.** To give the scales movement only attach them on either side and at the top, making your stitches relatively small so that they're covered by each line of scales.
3. Add an opening for an outer zip, if you're doing one - using an encapsulated buttonhole technique leaves a neat edge to sew the zip into.***
4. Once the outer is finished fold it right-side together and sew down each side, then pinch out the corners and sew across to make a square base. Trim back to about 1/2", then repeat with the lining.
5. Turn the outer right-side out, pushing out the corners, then align the lining inside and pin or clip in place as you fit the fabric into the flap.
6. Sew around the flap, leaving the edge scales free to move if you can, then sew the front of the bag together.
7. For the strap either sew on rings in a couple of long pieces of leather or tuck the end of the strap into the gap between lining and outer.**** However you choose to do it, be sure to use at least 2 lines of solid stitches over the connection.

*Don't put scales too far up the flap or you'll have to sew them down like I did.
**You might find it useful to support the fabric on a frame of some kind - I use an old £ Shop canvas frame. Look around to see what you can find or make if you have the tools or know-how.
***I always sew the bottom corners of the pocket lining to the outer shell - without going all the way through - to keep them in place, and out of the way.
****I prefer to use rings because it allows for adjustment of the strap before it's sewn on. Built-in straps must be measured to fit before finishing. You could go the belt and buckle-route if you're gifting these, but then there's the palava of reinforcing holes and all that jazz...

It was not my intention to do more leather work so soon after finishing this one - I usually wait until my fingerprints have grown back - but Mum saw mine and wanted one of her own... basically the same construction, but I obviously went for a neater look. I changed the shape of the scale template, as indicated above, which gives a better overall pattern, although these are on a 3x2.5cm grid rather than 2.5cm square. She didn't want zipped pockets, so I just went with a flap and press-stud instead.

[Pics to follow when it's finished]

That's it, no more leather work... for a while at least!