Making a CD Box - on the Scroll Saw

Video HERE

This was an interesting project - and much more of a learning experience than normal! The basic premise was to see if I could make finger joints on the scroll saw, cheat at splitting off the lid and somehow glue a box square without the appropriate tools... 2 1/2 out of 3 isn't bad, tho...

I'm not going to write out a full method here, this all depends on your choice of wood and the use you're putting the box to in the end, so here are a few thoughts on the stages of production...

Template

• I initially intended to use some 70x10mm strip wood for this box, but soon realized that I didn't have enough and switched to 70x5mm instead, but forgot to take that off the thickness of the joints so had LOTS of cutting back to do once it was all glued together... future reference, find out exactly what wood is in stock BEFORE making plans.
• As a CD box I knew this needed an internal size of 135mm, so I built the plan from there. Whatever your intended use you can plan for internal or external dimensions and then add or remove thickness for the joints. Here they're only 10mm square.

Cutting

• As I only had 70mm wide wood I doubled-up the strips to cut 8 pieces and then glued them together before applying templates... probably not the best idea, the glue line is very visible... but I was going for rustic.
• Cutting the joints on the scroll saw seemed a little too easy, and I probably came at it with that in mind, as very few of the inside cuts are square at all... could have gone for a chisel instead, but I don't have one thin enough... will have to think about that before my next attempt.
• Considering the mess I made of the mitred box I built for Secret Santa last year I decided to slightly cheat the lid by partially cutting each side and leaving only 3-4mm still connected. This partially worked, but the tabs on 3 sides broke as I was attempting to glue and clamp, which made things a little difficult and required massive amounts of tape to keep everything square(ish). It was a good idea, and one that I'll repeat to save on losing fingernails trying to split a box next time, perhaps making the tabs a little wider will help...

Gluing

• OMG! A complete mess, trying to get everything together and square using grip clamps and wood scraps was not fun, nor was resorting to tape and elastic bands, but it worked - sort of - in the end. It's only 2mm out across the diagonal, and I can live with that, but I'll have to think about it more if I make anything bigger - 2mm on a 140mm square isn't too obvious, but on something double that it's gonna look awful. I'll look in to getting some bar clamps, but running a bit low on funds right now - hope to be in a better state once the craft fair season really kicks off.

Finishing

• First of all, yes, too much joint overflow - and a box that was too tall to get under the scroll arm to trim off. Lots of cutting, rasping and sanding required - not sure the tennis elbow was necessary, tho - back to the old adage 'Measure twice, cut 5 times, then get frustrated and go watch Dr Who again...'
• As I wasn't overly concerned with the finish on this one I did resort to some 40 grit masonry sandpaper to cut back a lot of the joints, and the ply top/bottom edges. I would not recommend this for really presentable pieces because it leaves a lot of scratches you then have to get rid of, but what's wrong with a bit of character? I did follow up with 60, 120 and 180 to smooth things down before finishing.
• I decided on just a liberal coat of wax to finish this box, and buffed it out a bit, but I didn't want it shiny. I had debated whether or not to paint the whole thing or cover it in music paper, but in the end I liked the bare wood look.
• I was tempted to raid Dad's garage for an old handle, but decided on a leather strap instead, in a tan colour that seems to fit. A couple of layers with a line of stitching either side and an extra bit between the ends to add more strength over time.
• I am still debating what to use as a lining, there isn't much room for bulky fabric so it's between brown paper and some thin felt, or perhaps a combination...

So, that's the last project of May, and probably the most successful. In June I'm planning to do a series of connected bits that come together in at the end of the month, so watch this space...

Leather Scales Handbag

Video HERE

When I first started crafting officially about a decade ago I began with greetings cards and handbags, but soon found out that EVERYBODY does cards - and thus the market at craft fairs is saturated, and although people appreciate an interesting design, the vast majority of people are not willing to pay an appropriate price for a handmade bag when they can purchase one - probably made by a child - from their local semi-designer store for under £10. [This is my experience, you own local fairs may be frequented by a different class of customer.] From time to time I do occasionally make handbags, mostly for friends and family - but not for a sensible price.

I have used this basic satchel-style bag template since the last century. It can be adapted to almost any design as long as you keep the relative shapes in proportion. By all means, you can avoid the leather working portion of this make and use any sturdy fabric for the outside - generally PVC or some thick fabric will work... anything that's too thin will require extra support and lining to maintain the shape. I usually use a nice patterned inside and something contrasting for the pockets, but the choice is entirely up to you.

When drawing up this design I decided on a deeper bottom, which adds volume to the shape and creates a deceptively spacious inside. Add as many pockets as you need, but I would suggest no more than 2 for a realistically useful bag... nothing worse than trying to dig through every pocket to find something (particularly when you're in a busy place with commuters of the like tutting over your shoulder at the handful of sanitary towels you've just sprayed across the station floor... am I speaking from experience?... probably) I usually make a list of the things I absolutely have to carry and work from there, but be sensible, you don't need each individual item to have its own pouch - although a couple of pen loops always come in handy. If you're not going with leather scales then the flap of your bag can be decorated however you like, some of these are good examples...

[Pics coming as soon as I can find the disk with my old designs on...]

To Make My Leather Scales Handbag You Will Need:
Leather Scraps*
Cardboard Template (See Above)
Scrap Paper and Pen/Pencil
Scissors
Outer Fabric
Embroidery Thread
Cotton Thread
Needles - large and small
Leather Worker's Thimble and Stitching Tools (If you have some)
Or A Hammer, Nail and Cork Mat or Pencil Eraser
Bulldog Clips (If possible)
Or Pins
Zips (If using, buttons and flaps are also good)
Pocket Lining
Lining Fabric
Metal Rings**
Nylon Webbing***

*I have a box of offcuts purchased online, any scraps of thin leather will do. Alternatively, you can use something like felt or PVC that does not fray... even denim can work, if you cover the back of the fabric with glue to seal the threads in before cutting.
**I use curtain rings, they usually have about 2" diameter and are quite solid. Alternatively you could just sew the strap into the bag without them.
***Depending on how much work you want to do on the strap you can just use webbing alone or laminate some between fabrics like I did.

Method:

1. First draw out your template on scrap paper and use it to work out how many scales you'll need for the flap and/or the inside.* I suggest something more solid for the back as it will rub against the body when in use.
2. Transfer the template to the wrong side of your outer fabric and begin to apply the scales from the bottom of the flap.** To give the scales movement only attach them on either side and at the top, making your stitches relatively small so that they're covered by each line of scales.
3. Add an opening for an outer zip, if you're doing one - using an encapsulated buttonhole technique leaves a neat edge to sew the zip into.***
4. Once the outer is finished fold it right-side together and sew down each side, then pinch out the corners and sew across to make a square base. Trim back to about 1/2", then repeat with the lining.
5. Turn the outer right-side out, pushing out the corners, then align the lining inside and pin or clip in place as you fit the fabric into the flap.
6. Sew around the flap, leaving the edge scales free to move if you can, then sew the front of the bag together.
7. For the strap either sew on rings in a couple of long pieces of leather or tuck the end of the strap into the gap between lining and outer.**** However you choose to do it, be sure to use at least 2 lines of solid stitches over the connection.

*Don't put scales too far up the flap or you'll have to sew them down like I did.
**You might find it useful to support the fabric on a frame of some kind - I use an old £ Shop canvas frame. Look around to see what you can find or make if you have the tools or know-how.
***I always sew the bottom corners of the pocket lining to the outer shell - without going all the way through - to keep them in place, and out of the way.
****I prefer to use rings because it allows for adjustment of the strap before it's sewn on. Built-in straps must be measured to fit before finishing. You could go the belt and buckle-route if you're gifting these, but then there's the palava of reinforcing holes and all that jazz...

It was not my intention to do more leather work so soon after finishing this one - I usually wait until my fingerprints have grown back - but Mum saw mine and wanted one of her own... basically the same construction, but I obviously went for a neater look. I changed the shape of the scale template, as indicated above, which gives a better overall pattern, although these are on a 3x2.5cm grid rather than 2.5cm square. She didn't want zipped pockets, so I just went with a flap and press-stud instead.

[Pics to follow when it's finished]

That's it, no more leather work... for a while at least!

3-Minute Skills - Peg Bags and Button Holes

Video HERE

A really nice, simple afternoon make on the sewing machine (or by hand if you really must).

I've demonstrated an encapsulated or bound buttonhole here, but obviously much bigger. You should find it relatively easy to scale down for actual buttonholes. The tutorial focusses on the buttonhole more than the bag, but here are the full instructions...

You Will Need:
Fabric of your choice* (at least 13"x26" 32.5x65cm)
Small Hanger - Wood is easiest to use - about 11.5" (27.5cm) long**
Matching thread
Pins
Sewing Machine
Scissors and Pinking Shears if required

Method

1. Mark out the fabric to the design above. If you have to cut your hanger to fit remember to sand the edges then trace the shape on the fabric to make the right contour.
2. Pin the fabric right-sides together and sew around the slot, then cut through the fabric as shown above - don't cut through the stitching - and pull the lining through.
3. Pull the lining back until it sits flat against wrong-side of the outer fabric and pin in place (Press if you like)***
4. Top-stitch around the opening to leave a neat line.****
5. Fold and pin the fabrics right-sides together, then sew around, leaving a small gap for the hanger. Leave at least 3-4" (8-10cm) at the top of the lining pouch.
6. Pull the outer fabric through the top of the lining and make sure the corners are all pushed out square for a neat finish.
7. Thread the hanger hook through the small gap in the outer pouch, then tug firmly into place.

*Lining and Outer Cover, or you can just use a piece of fabric 1" larger than the slot on all sides.
**If the hanger is short enough you can just add to the width of the bag instead.
***If you're only using a small patch then you might want to fold in the raw edges to make it neater, or trim around with pinking shears if you prefer.
****That's pretty much it for a buttonhole. Remember to make the slot the width of your button + 2x the thickness (and try it out on a scrap first just in case).

Low Fat Thai-Style Green Chicken Curry

Video HERE

Yes, I know, anything labeled 'low fat' is doomed to taste like rabbit food - and be rabbit food, most often... however, this recipe manages to skirt past the typical 'healthy' offerings and create a tasty bowl of yum - well, at least I like to think so.

Ingredients:
2-3 Chicken Breasts*
1-2tbsp Rapeseed Oil
1-2 Limes
1 Red Onion
Bunch Coriander (With stems and roots if possible)**
2" Ginger, grated (or 2-3tsp pure pureed ginger from a jar)***
2-3 Cloves Garlic, finely chopped or crushed (or 2-3tsp pure pureed garlic from a jar)
1 Lemongrass, bruised and finely chopped (or 2-3tsp pure pureed lemongrass from a jar)
2-3tsp Coriander Puree (blitz a bit of your fresh herb, or use some from a jar)
2-3tsp Green Thai Curry Paste
1 can Reduced Fat Coconut Milk****
Handful Green Beans or Peas (optional)
1-2tsp Fish Sauce
1-2tsp Cornflour (optional)
1-2 Green Chilli's
Toasted Peanuts
150-200g Rice*****

*Breasts, not thighs - lower fat overall. I usually use 3 and end up feeding 3 people plus a pot to freeze for later.
**If you're one of the 20% who can't stand the stuff, by all means swap with Thai basil or any other herb you prefer. If you can get the full plant every part can be used in this curry. I only had a small handful of rather tired leaves for the video, which turned out quite well for a member of the 20%.
***There are some really good quality jarred ingredients out there, they save time and effort, but if you want the exercise by all means use the real thing and get mashing. You can of course use homemade curry paste if you like.
****Coconut fat is supposed to be a 'good' fat, so you can go all in here... this is what I had in the cupboard.
*****I usually go for 50g rice per person, and add some for the pot so that I can freeze a complete meal that just needs to be nuked in the microwave.

Method:

1. Chop the chicken into bite-sized pieces. Grate off the lime zest then cut in half and set aside. Chop the coriander roots and stems quite finely, then roughly chop the leaves and set aside. Chop the onion as fine as you like (I prefer it fairly chunky). Measure your jarred pastes onto a saucer - or gather and prepare your aromatics.*
2. 1/2 fill a large pan with water and a pinch of salt for the rice.**
3. Heat the oil and add the onion and coriander stems/roots and cook for a few minutes to brown slightly*** then add the chicken and cook until all the pink is gone.
4. Squeeze over half a lime and stir to coat the chicken, then tip in the aromatics and stir well for 1 minute or until, well, aromatic, then tip in the coconut milk.
5. Stir well**** and bring to the boil, then reduce to a gentle simmer for about 10 minutes.
6. Add the greens, if using, and the fish sauce and bubble for 3-4 minutes.
7. Check the chicken is cooked - if not simmer for another 5 minutes.
8. Chop the chili, remove the seeds if you like, and stir into the sauce.
9. If you're using low fat coconut milk it probably won't be particularly thick so stir the flour into a couple of tbsps cold water then add to the sauce and bubble until thickened.
10. Remove from the heat, squeeze over the rest of the lime and stir in the coriander leaves. Taste and adjust fish sauce or lime as needed.
11. Drain the rice and serve scattered with peanuts and lime zest.

*I like to get all the prep done before I start, except the chilli - I prefer to do that as needed and get all the utensils into the dishwasher ASAP, rather than having them hanging about, risking unwanted contamination.
**I don't time this recipe, except by the rice - if I start the water, then add the rice as it boils then everything is pretty much cooked at the same time.
***This recipe doesn't use palm sugar so the added sweetness from slightly caramelized onions helps to round out the balance of flavours.
****Reduced fat coconut milk really separates in the can, and needs a lot of stirring to get everything together. Alternatively you could use 3-4tbsp coconut cream and 400ml water, but it's not quite the same.

Sssscroll Ssssaw Ssssnake & Crocodile Toys

Video HERE

Apologies for the alliteration... some things just happen...

Ok, part of the reason why the Dragon Shed includes woodworking projects is because I really enjoyed it when I was at school... not that I was actually any good at it (not that I've actually gotten any better in the meantime) but a number of the projects I made in my teens are still rolling around in my head. If I can find my original crocodile I will add a few pictures here...

[OK, so I haven't found it yet. It's in the loft somewhere, probably next to the complete fail of a final project that actually got me an A - nothing better than failure to encourage self-reflection, a philosophy that has come in handy ;)]

From memory, the original project was based on a 45cm/18" long piece of strip wood. I'm using 2.5cm/1" square, but whatever you have will work [as long as you have around 16-18x the width of your wood] - adjust the plan to fit as you like. If you are a very confident scroll-saw user then there is no reason why you can't cut the pieces as one, rather than individual pieces... I'm not, and this method recalls the struggles I had with tenon saw, coping saw and - eventually - bandsaw in the school workshop. If I had a solid table vice in the Shed there is a high probability that I would have made this entirely with hand tools... OK, probably not THAT high.

If you don't have children then this project could be adapted into a trivet or pot-rest instead... maybe, unless you don't cook either, then it makes a really nice fidget toy for the office.

[Plan]

• Crocodile - Long Body, Legs, 2 Short Pieces*, Tail and the Head is in 2 pieces**.
• Snake - Head, Tail and as many Pieces as you have wood for.

*At some point I decided on only 1 Short piece for the croc, and added the spare to the snake instead. This is entirely up to you... in hindsight my croc looks a little more stubby than I like.
**I could have glued the pieces together and then made the cuts, but I am not keen on (that is confident with) cutting thick blocks on the scroll saw so I decided to cut the halves separately then glue them together - remember to cut the top pattern on the opposite side on one piece so that your head pieces are mirrors of each other.

1. Stick your templates to the wood - be careful to line up the fold with the edge of the wood to keep the joints even. Wrap the wood with packing tape/sellotape.*
2. Unlike me, you will use an awl or nail to make pilot holes for drilling BEFORE you move on.
3. Load your scroll saw with an appropriate blade (when I work out what this is I will have no more 'learning experiences') and cut out the pieces. The compound cuts around the head and tail can be a bit loose, but the jointed pieces need to be as close to the line as possible to save on sanding later.
4. Fit a sanding strip to your scroll saw - if you have some and you haven't snapped all the nubbins off previously - and sand on all sides, rounding over sharp edges and adding contours to the head and tail.
5. Fit together the pieces of your snake/croc and drill a hole 3/4 of the way through** [You'll find it easier to number the pieces as you drill them] and pin together temporarily.
6. Flex each joint and mark wherever the wood jambs, then return to the sander and shape until the pieces move as smoothly as you want.***
7. Rub all over with white spirit to remove any sawdust then leave to dry.
8. Rub down with 180 grit sandpaper then decorate however you like. [Not essential, but I also added a bit of wax to the joints, even though they weren't that tight] I went for a simple Pyrography stamp pattern and a wash of acrylic paint with a little metallic gold and bronze rubbed in. I also added red diamante eyes on the croc and pearls for the snake.
9. Add a finish if you want, obviously nothing too nasty if you're making it for a child.

*I don't know why this works, but it certainly helps.
**So that whatever you use as a pivot will not be visible... also it's a good idea to make sure the hole is big enough for whatever dowel/pin you intend to use.
***I chose to keep the croc quite limited, then give the snake loose joints in one direction and tighter ones in the other, just because I like to have some variation.