Making a Rag Doll

Video HERE

We've had a rather hectic month so my plan to make a Dotty-Daisy Box has been put on hold once more... Instead, to harken back to a simpler time, I've decided to make a tutorial out of one of the first things I ever made - back when I was about 9! - Obviously with more finesse!

A rag doll is, by definition, made of offcuts and ends left over from other projects. However, as I intend to sell these I cannot use really old or pre-used fabric for the doll or the stuffing, so I am making the bodies out of sturdy new-ish fabric scraps and fire retardant stuffing.

You could, of course, use a sewing machine... but I think that the whole point of doll-making is to do things by hand - and I'm certain that I could not handle all the tight curves on the machine. If you decide to make a huge doll, then the process should be easier on the machine. 

I have - by accident - made a lookalike of an old school friend and I was tempted to name the doll after her, but I think this time I will ask you to give her a name. I'll pick one at random at the end of April and the winner will get a prize!

You will need:

A Mug*

Scrap paper

Pencil

Ruler

Scissors

Plain and patterned fabric scraps

Lining/padding

Pins

Thread

Needle

Fibrefill or other Stuffing**

Dowel or Knitting Needle***

Yarn

Flat white sequins

Method:

1. Make your template. The diagram above indicates the rough proportions that I like to use.
2. Use the template pieces to mark out and roughly cut the fabric**** choosing a mixture of fabrics if you like, or patterned for the majority of the body and plain for the face, palms and soles of feet.
3. Pin together the face pieces and pad with lining before sewing down the front along the nose.***** Sew together the little crease in the back of the head, then sew the back to the front.
4. Sew the palms to the inner arms, then sew the arms together.
5. Sew down the legs to the feet then, if you want to you can set in the soles, or add then after stuffing.
6. Sew the shoulders and sides of the body, leaving openings for the arms and neck.
7. Trim to about 1/4" (7-8mm) - depending on the size of doll and fabric, use pinking shears if necessary. Clip the fabric around any corners being careful not to cut the stitching.
8. Turn everything through being careful to push out the ears, nose and thumb with the end of your *closed* scissors.
9. Stuff the head, arms and legs. Remember to tease out and open up the stuffing before using to get an even density. Be sure to push stuffing into the toes and palms.******
10. Set the legs into the bottom of the body, being careful to keep the length even - or go for a wonky effect if you like. Then sew into place either stitching through all layers to create a waist or just around the leg for an open joint. Set in the arms and sew. *******
11. Stuff the body quite firmly, being careful to blend in the hip and shoulder joints if you've left them open. Make sure the shoulders are well-filled to help support the neck.
12. Push in the open end of the neck and sew into place.
13. Decide on the colour of hair you want - I usually go for a selection of matching and contrasting colours - and pick out some yarn of the appropriate colours. Using a folder or notepad unroll strands of yarn until you have enough to cover the head.********
14. Double-up the yarn to find the centre, then sew each strand individually to the doll's head. I usually begin with a pair of parallel lines of yarn along the centre of the head, then one that goes all around the head seam, behind the ears. Larger dolls look better with another line between the seam and central parting, but that's entirely up to you. I usually put a few stitches in the ear as I work my way around.
15. Squeeze a thin line of glue along the stitch line to stabilize and child-safe the hair. Braid together a few leftover strands of yarn then sew along the seam line to create a neat headband-style effect. Trim and style the hair as you like.
16. Use pins to position two sequins for the eyes and the ends of the mouth then sew on the eyes and lips.*********

*Any circular shape will do, bear in mind your final doll will be around 5x the width of the cup from top of head to feet.

**If you're making a prototype then stuff with whatever scraps you have, but bear in mind that mixed scrap will not stuff as evenly as fibrefill and you could end up with lumpy limbs.

***You will need some kind of tool to push the stuffing in to the ends of your arms or legs, anything without a sharp point is usable - I used to use an unsharpened pencil with a rubber on the end.

****I prefer a very rough cut, with at least 1/2" (15mm) allowance. It can be difficult to work with some fabrics, they fray and unravel easily, so a larger allowance helps things to stay stable as you work. The smaller your doll the finer your fabric should ideally be.

*****This will add extra support to the face shape, but if you're going for a flat head then it is not necessary.

******I don't like a really stiff stuffing - as it were - I use enough to make an even fill. Don't pack in too hard or you'll end up with a peas-in-a-pod feeling. Roll the pieces between your palms to even out the packing.

*******Remember to push the needle through the body at the end of construction to hide the loose end inside rather than have it visible or accessible.

********It is difficult to estimate how much you'll need. I make a bundle of about 400 to begin with, then cut more as needed.

*********If you want you can use safety eyes instead - or buttons.

This was a great project, really simple and quite repetitive which was rather comforting. You can see that I've decided to make a whole range, so I have plenty of work to fall back on when 'spring' decides not to attend the shed. Now, I need to think about some clothes... come back next week for that tutorial.

3-Minute Skill - Square Apron

Video HERE

This is an ideal project for the beginner on the sewing machine. No curves, right-angle corners and simple stitching... Things have been rather hectic recently, so I forgot to film the second half of the build in the shed... apologies.

You will need:
2 squares of fabric approx 3 foot/90cm a side*
Thin wadding or lining (optional)
Matching threads
3m Ribbon, approx
Plastic rings (optional)
Safety Pins
Needle
Scissors

Method

1. Wash and iron your fabric - you need to make sure it won't shrink unevenly and get rid of any finishing agent used by the manufacturer. If it's repurposed scrap or quilt, then a good wash and press now will make the following stages much easier.
2. Place the fabric good-sides together on top of the lining (if using) - you can press again if you like to settle things together - then measure and mark out your square.**
3. If you are planning on a diamond shape place two loops of ribbon on diagonal corners between the fabric sheets***
4. Sew the layers together, leaving an opening of 7-10cm (3-4") on an edge (not the corner), with a straight stitch of about 3mm (depending on the fabric).
5. Trim to about 1cm (1/2") and clip the corners, then turn right-side out and press well.
6. Top-stitch around the edge with a contrasting thread, being careful to close up the opening. ****
7. Diamond shape - Attach 2 ribbon loops on diagonal corners (if you haven't already), then fold forward the top corner and pin with safety pins for now. Slip the ribbon through the corner and cross the ends around your back, then through the loops. Adjust the fold to sit neatly across your chest, then stitch in place over the top of the top-stitching- fixing the ribbon if you like, otherwise put a couple of stitches through the middle of the fold instead
8. Square shape - Center one edge across your chest and pin a loop of ribbon (about 45cm/18") into place so that it sits flat. Align two small plastic rings with your waist and sew on loops of ribbon to hold them. Put a long strip of ribbon through the neck-loop and measure down about 30cm/1', then tie an overhand knot. You can sew down the corners on this one, but they don't get in the way for me so it's not a problem.*****

*Ideally the same kind, one patterned and one contrasting. If you want to you can make up a quilted panel for the front and back, or just one side and contrast on the inside.
**Anywhere between 85cm-1m(3'-3'6") is plenty for an adult, somewhere around 50-60cm (1'6"-2') for an 8-9 year old... and finesse things in between for teens.
***You could add these later, once you decide which way round suits your body shape, but this way reduces hand-sewing later.
****If you want to you can add quilting now to help bind the layers together and add more decorative effect, but I find that added stitching on top of this kind of pattern is a bit too much.
*****You could of course use plastic rings and this separate neck loop for the diamond shape if you prefer.

Chocolate Demo for Ilford Sugarcraft Guild

Video HERE

Yes, this is a long video. The demo part was just over an hour, then the ladies took over for the next 3... didn't think you'd appreciate a 4 hour video. The sound isn't great, apologies, but I hope you can see everything I'm doing - if not, here are the 4 recipes I showed the ladies.

Grasshopper

Cream Centre

75g White Chocolate

1 ½ tbsp Double Cream

35g Butter

Pinch of Salt

Mint Flavouring

Green colour (optional)

200g Milk Chocolate

30-40g Mint Matchmakers, chopped

1-2 Boiled Mints, crushed

30-40g Roasted Pistachios, chopped

1. For the cream centre melt everything together in the microwave, or over a bain marie.
2. Blend until smooth and incorporated, then add in a few drops of flavouring and colour if using. Pour into a piping bag and set aside to cool.*
3. Melt the milk chocolate gently in the microwave until just liquid.
4. Spoon 1tsp of the chocolate into a paper case and lift up the sides until coated, then lay open-end down on a tray. (You’ll need about 20)**
5. Spoon about ½ tsp chocolate onto a sheet of baking parchment or foil and sprinkle on some mint and matchmakers. (Make enough for the cases)
6. Chill in the fridge until set.
7. If the cases are solid, remove the paper. Pipe the cream centre into each case to about ¾ full, then top with a pistachio and a button. Chill until needed.***

*This cream centre is fabulous. Unlike a fondant recipe it isn't over-sweet, and you can add any flavouring you like. If you're using an extract only a couple of drops will do, mix well and freeze and you can roll the centres before re-freezing then dipping in chocolate. If you're using jam, curd or marmalade it will carry the flavour well, but no amount of freezer time will make it solid enough to roll, so it's better piped instead.
**For speed - and for those who don't have access to moulds I've used small petit-for cases for this recipe, then topped them with mini mondion (chocolate buttons with bits of matchmaker and crushed boiled mint)
***You don't need to keep these chilled - in fact they taste better at room temperature. They'll last about a week, or 2-3 months in the freezer.

 Firecracker

Steeped Ganache

4tbsp Double Cream+1

1-2 tbsp Dried Chilli

½ Red Chilli, chopped (optional)

150g Plain Chocolate

40g Butter

Pinch of Salt

200g White Chocolate

50g Red Candy Melts

1. Gently heat the cream, then add the chilli and leave to steep for 10 minutes.*
2. Pour the cream over the chocolate, butter and salt, adding another tbsp cream then microwave until just melted. 
3.  Tip into a shallow dish and chill for 30 minutes-1 hour until firm.
4. Roll tsps of the ganache between your fingertips, chill for 20 minutes.
5. Melt the white chocolate and place the candy melts into a piping bag in a cup of boiling water.
6. Dip the ganache balls into the white chocolate to coat, then transfer to a sheet of baking parchment and pipe over the candy melts.
7. Chill until needed.

*Chilli chocolate is an acquired taste, use as much or as little as you like. Fresh chilli adds more flavour, dried adds more heat, cayenne or chilli powder can be bitter so make small batches to test the power.

Whisky Water Ganache

115g Plain Chocolate

25g Light Muscovado Sugar

85ml Water

1-2tbsp Whiskey

Cocoa Powder

1-2 tbsp Cocoa Nibs

1. Put the sugar into a pan with the water and boil until dissolved.
2. Tip onto the chocolate, whisk until melted.*
3. Add the whiskey and tip into a pot.
4. Cool then refrigerate for at least 2 hrs until set.
5. Tip the cocoa powder onto a plate and scatter with the nibs.
6. Break into small-ish pieces and roll between your fingers, then add to the plate and roll until coated.
7. Chill until needed.**

 *Best to use a small-ish bowl so that everything sits together rather than being spread out. Try to get it melted in one go, or blast with the microwave for 20 secs on high.
**Because these don't have cream or butter they can stay out of the fridge, although they can get quite soft.

Cappuccino

Whipped Ganache

150g Milk Chocolate

50g Plain Chocolate

50g Butter

8tbsp Double Cream

Pinch of Salt

1-2tsp Instant Coffee Powder

2-3tbsp Coffee Liqueur (optional)

200g White Chocolate

Bronze Lustre Dust

1. Melt together the ganache ingredients, then stir in the coffee and liqueur. Chill for 20 minutes.
2. Brush the moulds with lustre, tapping out the excess.
3. Melt the white chocolate and line the moulds, then place open-side down on a lined tray and chill for 30 minutes.
4. Blend the ganache until frothy. Chill for 5 minutes.*
5. Blend again. Chill for 5 minutes.
6. Blend again. Chill for 5 minutes.
7. Blend once more until light and mousy, then transfer to a piping bag.
8. Pipe into the moulds to ¾ full and top with more chocolate.
9. Chill for 30 minutes before easing from the moulds.

*Not having a fridge made this one difficult to chill - we went for the cool back corridor approach. You can wait up to 10 minutes between blending, but your machine needs to have some oomph to get the right texture.