The Dragon Shed Winter Project - Part 1
So far I have only dabbled in scroll sawing, this is me diving in... although it only started on the saw...This is my original design, reproduce for personal use not personal gain.
STAGE 1 - Video Part 1
Materials:
1x1" Pine Strip Wood, (depending on knots) about 1.4m (?)
Cutting Template*
Glue Stick
Packing/Masking Tape
Sandpaper
Fabric Measuring Tape
Selection of Wood Veneers (I'm using Ash, Oak, Mahogany and Walnut)
WaterStrong Wood Glue
Clamps/Elastic Bands
Wood Filler
Pyrography Tool
Paste Wax
What I Did:
- Cut each template into strips and arrange the pieces on the strip wood, avoiding knots and defects. Glue around 2 sides of the strip, then cover with packing tape.
- Cut the strip into manageable lengths.
- Set up scroll saw with No.2 or Spiral blade.
- First cut out the shaded section and set aside, then cut out the rest of the piece, re-sticking the waste around the sides as you go. File in boxes by shape for ease of processing.
- Sand the faces of each piece to smooth the curves and transitions, but keep the corners as sharp as possible.
- Measure the faces of each piece to get an average length, then cut the veneers to length+5mmx3cm. Stack together by piece, filed in the appropriate boxes.
- For each piece, place the ash veneers into a jar of cold water for a few hours (or boil for 30 minutes) then press onto the piece, using the waste pieces to apply even clamping pressure to opposite sides. Leave to dry.**
- Remove the clamps, then glue the veneer in place and re-clamp. Dry overnight.
- Once dry trim back the overhanging veneer, then repeat the process with the oak veneers.
- Repeat with the mahogany and walnut veneers, trim flush, then fill and leave to dry.
- Sand the filler, and the wood until smooth, then burn the exposed pine with the pyrography tool for an even colour.***
- Cover with a coat of wax, then store until needed.
*** In the video I showed the pyrography being done before the laminating, but I only did that on the pawns. All the other pieces waited until the veneer was glued and trimmed back so that I could see where it was needed - it also helped to burn the endgrain of the veneers flat rather than risk chipping off whilst sanding. Using Pyro instead of painting means that it will not affect the glue bond - although burning after gluing negates this issue.
*Cutting Template - This is the design I worked with, quite simplistic, relying on the veneers to add flare, with some added details for a bit of flash.
[TEMPLATE coming soon!]
Yes, this was as tedious as it looks! But only having 8 clamps limited each session to 4 sides at a time, which meant only about 20 minutes of tedious work each day and pretty much saved me from going completely potty! I used powdered filler, blended with PVA, acrylic paint and a little water, which was probably more work than it needed to be... and much more sanding than I expected... a Learning Experience, as dad calls it!
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