Christmas Gifts for Foodies

Video HERE

Red Wine Ganache

4tbsp Red Wine*
200g Milk Chocolate
100g Plain Chocolate
120ml Double Cream
Pinch of Salt
Red Sprinkles
*Choose something with a lot of flavour, it needs to stand against chocolate after all. You could even go for a white wine, prosecco or Champagne

1. Put the wine in a small pan and simmer gently until reduced by half.*
2. Melt the chocolate and cream together in a bain marie or microwave.
3. Stir the wine and salt into the chocolate until smooth.
4. Pour into a lined tin then leave to cool to room temperature.
5. Cover the top with a layer of sprinkles** then transfer to the fridge to chill for at least 4 hours - the wine will make these a rather soft-set ganache.***
6. Keep refrigerated until ready to serve.

*You could use a rich port or other fortified wine instead of reducing one.
**If these are going to be around for any length of time, or if they're going to be taken out and then returned to the refrigerator, you may want to leave the sprinkles off until serving because a difference in temperature can cause condensation to wash out the colour.
***Alternatively you can tip the ganache into a piping bag, cool to room temp then pipe into moulded shapes, which is probably a better option if they're going to be sitting out for any length of time.

Candied Peel

Citrus Peel*
Caster Sugar

1. Cut the peel into pieces - I had some in 1/2" squares and some in sticks for dipping in chocolate.
2. Put the peel in a saucepan and cover with water. Bring to the boil and simmer for about 25 minutes.**
3. Drain, then use a cup to measure over enough cold water to cover the peels. Dry the cup, then measure the same amount of sugar into the pan.
4. Heat, stirring, until the sugar melts.
5. Add a sugar thermometer and boil until the syrup reaches 115C/240F.
6. Drain the peels, then scatter onto a sugared plate and toss to coat.***
7. Spread the peels on a wire rack to dry for a couple of hours before transferring to a jar.

*You may find it easier to stockpile your peel in the freezer until you have a decent amount - about 2 cups is good.
**Some recipes have you bring the peel to a boil, then drain, cover and repeat a couple of times. I find that this way works better for orange, the other for lemon - depending on the time you have in the kitchen.
***When completely covering these in chocolate I don't bother sugaring, but spread the peels pith-side up on a plate and leave them in the fridge until dry to the touch before dipping. If you're just dipping one end then you'll need the sugar.

Shortbread

For someone with hot hands, like me, pastry recipes (IE. those that are mostly flour and butter and require handling to roll or cut into shape) are a trial. Whilst hot mitts make bread making easy they really make a mess of pastry. I love making shortbread, but regularly find it turns into a greasy mess - until I found this recipe which needs absolutely no hand-contact (if you have a food processor)... until you stuff them into your mouth, that is.

300g Plain Flour
60g Rice/Corn Flour*
250g Butter, fridge cold, cubed
115g Caster Sugar + 2-3tbsp
85g Flavouring**

Preheat Oven 170C/325F/GM3

1. Line 2x 20cm (8") tins (or a 30x20cm square pan (12x8")).
2. Mix the flours in a bowl (or in a processor for the hot-handed) then rub in the butter (process in pulses until the mixture resembles breadcrumbs).
3. Stir in the sugar and flavouring (Quickly pulse in the processor to mix but avoid chopping the pieces too small).
4. Divide between tins and press very firmly*** with a spoon, then prick with a fork.
5. Score into segments then bake for 35-40 minutes until golden.
6. Re-score whilst hot then dust with more sugar and leave to cool in the tins.

*Rice flour helps make these crisp, cornflour does as well, but not as well.
**Glace Fruits, Candied Peel, Raisins, Chocolate Chips, Chopped Nuts... whatever you like.
***More than you think it needs. I use 2 matching tins and use the bottom of one to compress the other, THEN press firmly with the back of a spoon. If a lot of crumbs pop up when you start pricking with a fork then it needs more pressing.

Biscotti

This biscotti recipe fits neatly into a 1ltr Kilner jar. It's a great gift to give to someone who doesn't bake often, and simple enough for a baking novice - also tasty with a mug of coffee.

The basic ratio for 1 Egg: (Makes about 20)
100g Plain Flour
75g Sugar
50-70g Dried Fruit/Choc Chips
50g Nuts
3g Baking Powder

Some flavour variations:

Christmas (Orange & Cranberry)
Use a combination of almonds and hazelnuts, peel and dried cranberries
Replace half the sugar with light brown sugar
Add 1tsp mixed spice

Black Forest
Use a combination of hazelnuts and Brazil's, dried cherries and dark chocolate chips
Replace half the sugar with light brown sugar and 25-30g flour with cocoa
Add 1-1/2tsp Cinnamon

Nut-otti
Use a combination of sultanas and milk choc chips
Use all hazelnuts - best if roasted first
Dip cooked biscotti in warm Nutella, then scatter with chopped nuts

Jar Instructions:*

1. Preheat your Oven to 140C/GM4.
2. Empty the contents of the jar into a sieve and shake the flour through.
3. Add 1 egg.
4. Stir until it starts to come together, then use your hands to incorporate all the flour. [DO NOT ADD ANY LIQUID]
5. Add the fruit and nuts and knead until evenly mixed.
6. Transfer to a floured tray and shape into a rough log 30cm (12") long.
7. Bake for 25-30 minutes until risen and brown.
8. Transfer to a wire rack to cool for 10 minutes.
9. Reduce oven to 110C/GM1.
10. Slice into 1.5cm (1/2") pieces and arrange on the baking sheet cut-side up.
11. Bake for 15 minutes, then turn over and bake for a further 15 minutes until crisp and dry.
12. Wash out the jar and these biscotti will keep well inside for a month or more.

*Normal baking - Put the flour, sugar, baking powder (and spice, if using) into a bowl then continue from stage 3.

Merry Christmas from the Dragon Shed.

Paper Christmas!

[Title Pic to follow!]

This is what happens when a crafter is confined to quarters by a back injury... 12 days of -somewhat- traditional paper decorations.

1. Polish* Spiky Ball

*Apparently these are a traditional Polish decoration... I 'borrowed' the idea from another YouTuber... I think it was YoYoMax12... This one is a little fiddly, but worth it in the long run.

You will need:
10x 2" circles of printed paper or thin card
Scissors
Pointed tool
Needle and thread
Small beads

Method

1. Fold each circle into 8 then cut along the creases leaving about 1/2" in the centre.
2. Fold and roll each segment around a pencil*.
3. Thread a bead onto a doubled-up length of thread then sew through the middle of the first paper circle from the pattern side.
4. Sew through the rest of the circles from the plain side.
5. Separate the thread and add another bead to one side then tie the ends together, pulling the thread tight.
6. Add a knot to the end of the thread and trim the end.

*If making a big one or using card you'll need to glue them in place.

2. 2-Tone Star

A really quick and visually interesting decoration that can be scaled up to however much paper you have.

You will need:
Decorative paper (double-sided or plain backed printed craft paper)
Ruler
Scissors
Glue Stick
Needle and thread
Small bead

Method:

1. Cut your paper into 6 equal squares.
2. Fold each square in half diagonally and cut as shown - depending on the size cut between 3 and 6 slots.
3. Unfold the paper and glue together the corners alternating direction. Repeat with each square.
4. Knot a bead onto the end of your thread. Line the squares up and sew through the bottom corner of each one, then bring the thread together through the button and tie off.
5. Bring the thread up along the middle of one arm and stitch through the top corner, then make a loop to hang on the tree, tie a knot and trim the excess.

3. Poinsettia Flower

Dainty little flowers are rather traditional in paper quilling, but this one is far from traditional - and not at all dainty. Using bold coloured paper and a touch of metallic paint makes a decoration that will stand up against all the other gaudiness hanging on your tree this year.

You will need:
Red and Green Paper*
Ruler, Craft Knife and Cutting Mat
Quilling Tool
Glue Stick
PVA Glue
Cork Board or Foam Mat (ideally covered with plastic)
Pins
Needle and Thread
Metallic Acrylic Paint and a Sponge or Q-tip

*I used three different shades of red and only one of green, but you can go for a solid colour or graduated on either petals or leaves or both.

Method:

1. First cut your paper into 3/4" (2cm) strips along its length. You will need 25 red and 15 green.
2. Stick together 5 strips of red and 3 of green.
3. Roll the strips with a quilling tool, release the tension and glue the end before squeezing the ends to make an eye shape.
4. Pin each petal to your board, drawing the centre of the roll down towards the middle and apply a line of glue from the centre to the bottom.
5. Glue each leaf between the petals, holding everything in place with more pins. Leave to dry completely.
6. Once dry sew through the top of one petal then tie off a loop.
7. Add a little metallic paint to the edges of the petals and leaves on both sides. Leave to dry before hanging on the tree.

4. Holly Sprig

These are very simple to put together, but really pack a punch - particularly with added flare from glitter or acrylic gold.

You will need:
Green and red paper
Craft knife, ruler and cutting board
Quilling Tool
Glue Stick
Cork or foam board covered with plastic
Pins
PVA or Hot Glue
Hanging Thread
Metallic Acrylic Paint and a sponge or Q-tip

Method:

1. For each leaf (I made 3) cut 15 strips of green paper to about 3/4" (2cm) wide. Glue them into a long strip.
2. For each berry (I made 5) cut 4 strips of red to the same width.*
3. Roll each green strip tightly, then release and allow to sit and settle on a smooth surface before gluing the end.
4. Pinch each end, then make a few more points by pinching along the sides.
5. Pin each leaf onto the board, pushing in where necessary to create the holly shape. Add a line of PVA along the spine of the leaf, then out to the points.
6. Roll each berry tightly then stick in place at the top of the leaves (I like 2 leaves with 3 cherries on one side and 1 leaf with 2 on the other) Leave to dry completely.
7. Using PVA or hot glue stick the leaves together good-sides out, trapping a loop of knotted thread between the layers. Leave to dry completely.
8. Apply a light touch of acrylic or glitter around the edges of the leaves and cherries and leave to dry before hanging.

*I only had 1 shade of green, but multiple in red and chose to go random with the berries. The choice is up to you.

5. Snowmen

 This ornament is made up of simple, classic quilling rolls... I don't think you need a full step-by-step for this one, but I will give you the roll sizes and details...

Hat - 1xA4 (Colour+Contrast) - Loose roll pinched into an uneven rectangle.
Hat Rim - 1/2xA4 (Colour) - Loose roll pinched into long rectangle.
Scarf - 3x 1/4xA4 (2xColour 1xContrast) - Loose roll pinched into square.
+ 2 small strips for the scarf tails.
Head - 5xA4 (White) - Tight roll.
Body - 10xA4 (White) - Tight roll.
Arms - 2x 1/2xA4 (White) - Loose roll pinched into teardrops.

6. Gifts

Another simple design. I'll give you the parts again and let you follow the video for instructions.

Quarters - 3xA4 (Mixed or graduated colours) - Loose roll pinched into a square.
Ribbon Sections - 4x 1/2xA4 (Contrast) - Loose roll pinched into long rectangle.
Ribbon Centre - 1/4xA4 (Contrast) - Loose roll pinched into square.
Ribbon Loop and Knot - 1x1/2A4 and 2x1/4A4 - Hand-rolled and shaped.

7. Trees

This one looks complicated, but as with all things, once you break it down to its component parts it is really very simple. You will deffinitely need a foam or cork board for this one, hand-gluing so many pieces can be frustrating without it.

Star - 5x 1/3xA4 (Yellow) - Loose roll pinched into a teardrop.
Baubles - 8x 1/8xA4 (Red and Orange) - Tight roll.
Tree Trunk - 1/2xA4 (Brown or Green) - Loose roll pinched into a rectangle.
Branches - Top - 2x 1/2A4 (Green) - Loose roll pinched into triangle.
2nd Row - 2x 1xA4 (Green) - Loose roll pinched into paralelogram.
3rd Row - 2x 1 1/2xA4 (Green) - Loose roll pinched into paralelogram.
4th Row and onwards add 1/2 a strip to each row and continue the pattern.

8. Angels 

These seem complicated, but they're really only fiddly. A pin board is a definite must to pin all the pieces together whilst they glue.

Halo - 1/2xA4 (Yellow) - Loose roll shaped into a crescent around the Head.
Head - 1xA4 (Pink) - Tight Roll.
Upper Body - 1xA4 (White) - Loose roll shaped around the Hands.
Hand - 2x 1/8xA4 (Pink) - Tight roll squeezed into an oval.
Belt - 1x 1/4xA4 (Yellow) - Loose roll pinched into an oblong.
Skirt - 1x 2xA4 (White) - Loose roll pinched square at the top.
Wings - 6x 1xA4 (White and yellow shades) - Loose roll pinched into long teardrops.

9. Garlands 

Now, a garland is a pretty way to hang chains of small flowers around your tree, and an easy way to build quilled flowers if you don't have much time or skill. These are great for children, or you can roll dozens of petals from scrap paper whenever you're watching TV.

There is no set way to build these, you only need a length of string or narrow ribbon, some glue and paper quills. You can either tie the ribbon around a central roll and then glue the petals around it or make a number of flowers and then string them through with a knot either side to stop them slipping, the choice is up to you. Use a ruler or the width of your hand to space them out and simply carry on until you run out of paper or string.

10. Baubles

Before you start to make this kind of bulk rolling project I always advise making up a Puck. Simply layers of white paper strips with a strip of colour every 10. The coloured rings help you to gage the number of strips you will need for a given project - and give you a rough idea of how many of each colour you will need for even layers.

For the yellow bauble I used multiples of 3 (6 strips of the lightest colour, followed by 9, 12 and 15)
The red is in 5's and both have a single strip of A4 for the ferroul(probably the wrong term) on the top - thread through your string from the bottom so that the loose ends are held in place by glue as well as knot.

After the second colour I added a loose roll of white (3 strips) to create a shine effect.

Once rolled you can apply a thin layer of PVA to the front and back to help ond everything together and create a shiny finish.

11. Bells 

Now these are deceptively simple... just 40 strips of A4 quilled together then pushed into shape. I would suggest making a Puck, as described above and on the video - so that you have an idea of exactly how many strips you need.

A few notes:

• You cannot glue the strips down until the end so I would suggest that you put them together in lots of 10 or 12 to make the twisting easier.
• When you're happy with the shape run 2 or 3 lines of glue along the inside to hold the layers in place.
• If adding bells on the inside I suggest you thread each bell individually then tie the loose ends into a loop, don't try and do it in one like I did.
• You can - and probably should - paint the outside with gold acrylic, which will also help to hold the layers together.

12. Candles

(Small typo... didn't realize until I started editing.)
This decoration is the culmination of all the skills I've demonstrated so far. Threading through from the bottom without gluing the flame into place helps add movement, but if you're having trouble with the threading you can just tie a loop an knot it under the flame then make sure it's stuck securely to the candle body, which is quite heavy.

Cradle - 40x 1xA4 (Yellow shades) Tight roll shaped into cup and glued.
Candle - 10x 1xA4 [2 1/2" (7cm) wide]  (White shades, with Cream on the end) Tight roll.
Handle - 4x 1xA4 (Yellow) Loose roll, twisted out.
Flame - 3x 1xA4 (Red through yellow shades) Tight roll, glued and trimmed into shape.

Have fun exploring what shapes you can make and combine for your own crafts and decorations.

Merry Christmas,

Vix

Crackers! Ornament Challenge 2017 Entry

Video HERE

I always look out for the woodworking challenges online... although until now I have not had enough of an idea - or enough confidence to attempt them... The Ornament Challenge from aswoodturns.com always used to be a wood turning challenge, but in the last couple of years they've opened it up to non-turners like me!

These crackers are an answer to the question 'Why hasn't anyone tried to make a non-turned Christmas cracker before?'

You Will Need:
Templates (See Below)
Wood Veneer
Shallow Bowl or Dish
Water
A length of thick Dowel (4x1/3" [1cm] Disk +)*
A length of thin-ish dowel**
String***
Salt Dough (See Below)
2x 2 1/2" dowels (about 1/4-8" diameter)
Drill with a bit to match
Brown Gorilla Glue
Cup of water
Paper towel
Brush
File and/or 60 grit Sandpaper
White Spirit
Craft Printed Paper
Card
Scissors
Pinking Shears (Or other decorative blade scissors)
Double-Sided Tape
PVA Glue
Masking or Sello-Tape
Crepe Paper
Thread in matching Colour
Nail File or Emery Board
Paste Wax
Varnish
180 Grit Sandpaper
Superglue****

*I used a couple of old curtain rails each around 1" diameter. Per cracker you will need about 2" of dowel plus a chunk for support whilst rolling.
**I used an old towel rail, about 1/2" diameter - depending on your veneer you might be able to get a tight roll, or use the thicker dowel instead (see Stage 2)
***I used cotton string rather than plastic, because it lets the wood dry evenly and doesn't bleed dye when wet.
****For those emergency repairs that are needed in the last moments!

Templates:

These templates are for a dowel of around 1" (2.5cm) diameter, but I've allowed for a fair bit of slop here... and I've also slipped into metric, 'cos it's easier. As I was making a huge batch I cut my templates in thick card, once I'm satisfied with the measurements I will probably make a new set in ply or plastic.

Veneer
1 piece 14x11 - longest side along the grain - divided into 2x 3x11cm and 1x 8x11
- If you want you can try to keep the grain aligned by cutting the ends from the ends of this piece. You will need to keep track of the top and bottom of each piece throughout the soaking and rolling stages.

Printed Craft Paper
3x 2.5cm Circle
1x 7x11cm
1x 5x11cm - split down the middle with pinking shears into 2x 2.5cm strips.

Card
1x 7x22cm
2x 2x22cm

Salt Dough Recipe:

230g Plain Flour
200g Salt
250ml Water
1tbsp Oil*

1. Mix the flour and salt together. Add the oil to the water.
2. Mix in about half of the water, then gradually add the rest until a smooth, firm dough forms.
3. Knead for 10 minutes (or 5 in a mixer with a dough hook).
4. Rest for at least 30 minutes in an airtight container**.
5. Bake at 120C (GM 1/2) for between 5-10 hours (or more, depending on thickness)

*Oil makes the dough slightly more flexible, but you can leave it out if you want.
**I have let this dough 'rest' for a couple of days without problem. It can become a little sticky, but kneading in a little more flour brings it quickly back to being usable.

Construction Method:*

1. Cut your veneer to size and drop the pieces into a dish of water, weighed down with a rock or other heavy object if they float too much.**
2. Roll the veneer around your 1/2" dowel - if you can, otherwise use your extra chunk - and tie with string. Hang them up to dry completely.
3. Shape*** and bake your salt dough for longer than you think necessary****
4. Drill the centre of each large dowel disk with a 1/4" hole.
5. Drop the thin dowel in water, brush the bottoms of the salt dough with gorilla glue, dip one side of the large dowel in water, dab it onto a paper towel to remove excess, then thread the pinch section together. Clamp in place with tape and leave to set.
6. Cut the paper and card pieces according to the templates.
7. Once set sand or file away any excess glue and shave any overhanging dough back to the sides of the dowels. Wash off the dust with white spirit or a damp cloth - avoid getting things too wet now.
8. Stick the printed paper onto the card with double-sided tape, leaving a line of sticky open. Glue the circles of paper onto both ends of one pinch, and one of the other(this is the lid). Wrap a thin strip of double-sided tape around the dowels, then roll the paper around using an off cut to maintain the shape of the body section.
9. Apply a generous amount of PVA onto the card strips and press them firmly around the paper. Hold in place with tape until completely dry.
10. Cover both twists with crepe paper, cinching in the waist with thread. Using thin PVA - or 50:50 PVA:Water - glue the edges to the dowels, trimming and folding over the bottom of the lid, then apply a light coat over the salt dough to fix the creases in place. Leave to dry completely.
11. Cover the card with glue and roll the veneer onto it, trimming to fit with minimal gapping. Align the join on the end to the body for a neater finish. Hold in place with tape until completely dry. DO NOT RUSH THIS BIT!
12. Check the fit of the lid, if it's a little tight wrap a strip of sellotape around the dowel to hold the crepe in and allow the lid to slide easily. If it's loose add a few pieces of card around the inner rim or a strip of printed paper around the lid instead.
13. Gently sand the veneer edges with an emery board then apply a little wax or oil if you prefer before painting varnish onto the veneer (not the crepe*****).
14. Sand to 180 grit, then varnish again.

*This is the process that I developed by a lot of trial and error. It still has a few tricky parts, but I think it's pretty much there.
**Depending on the flexibility of your veneer and how hard or old the wood is you may need to boil it for a while to soften, otherwise just soaking for up to 12 hours is usually enough.
***The shape depends on your dowel diameter, just remember to cut a hole through the centre slightly wider than your thin dowel - salt dough doesn't shrink much so it needn't be huge.
****I can get about half a batch of dough onto the tray of my Easy Bake oven so I bake them sitting upright for 2 hours, then turned over between the wires of the grill for another 2, then once I've made a few batches I take them into the house and bake them for a further 6-8 hours just to make sure.
*****Don't do this with the lid in place like I did, keep the parts separate until finished and dry.

In answer to the question I asked earlier, I can clearly say - because it's actually rather difficult... but I think I've worked out - most of - the kinks and - hopefully - I will have some for sale next year.

Pattern to Plushie

Video HERE

Plush toy patterns are everywhere - well, it often seems that way - but unless you have a particular mind for building 3D shapes it is often difficult to see the plushy from the pattern pieces - and in my experience, some patterns don't even resemble the image that comes with. This is my process for creating plush characters from online plans.

1. Search online for a number of patterns for the same animal - I find this easier in terms of choice and also an opportunity for Frankenstein building to put parts together.
2. Without scaling the plan up, and using cheap fabric or felt, follow the plan/s exactly to make prototypes, stuffing with scraps to fill the shapes. Don't bother with eyes or other additions at this stage.
3. Once completed look closely at the shapes, how they relate, how the limbs work together.
4. Re-draw the pattern pieces to add or remove fabric, round out shapes or clarify lines, then re-make the prototypes.
5. You can do this as many times as you want, until you're satisfied with the shape.
6. Using a scanner, photocopier or a grid scale the pattern up as required.
7. Cut out your new pattern pieces, then pin to your fabric and cut, leaving 1/2" (1cm) sewing allowance.
8. If using furry fabrics you may need to trim back along the seams, or trim certain sections short for different effects.
9. Pin the pieces together and sew as firmly as possible by hand, or using a lock-stitch on a sewing machine (or go over the seams a couple of times to make sure everything is child-safe)
10. Join pieces together using toy joints or some other child-safe method. Only use eyes that lock in place.
11. Stuff with fibrefill or some other fire-safe filling, then use a secure ladder stitch to close up the stuffing holes.

This is a general technique for any plushy pattern, and good practice for any pattern work you may try, particularly dressmaking.

Empty-the-Vegetable-Rack Soup - Thai-style with Meatballs

Video HERE

Making soup is an ideal way to use up slightly old and tired vegetables and reduce waste - as well as giving you a tasty bowl of something warm, healthy and comforting that you can take from the microwave in minutes. I always make a big batch and freeze the leftovers in ice cube trays, then transfer them to bags the next day so that we can easily portion out what we want as and when required.

Ingredients:
Vegetables... well, yes! Anything you have that has been hanging around for a while; slightly bendy carrots or parsnips, somewhat floppy leeks, celery or onions. (Greens if you like, but it is not necessary to roast them first) Leftover pumpkin or squash.
Stock

... That's it...

Well, perhaps not that simple every time, but that is the basis of any soup. You can of course stick to a stock cube and water - personally, I find that a mixed veg soup without a particular base flavour is a little boring... try some of these options...

Thai-Style

• 1-2 cans Coconut Milk
• 1 Lemongrass stalk, crushed and chopped
• 1-2" Root Ginger, sliced (no need to peel)
• 1-2 Red Chillies, chopped
• 2-4 cloves Ginger, smashed
• Bunch Coriander (Stalks chopped, leaves reserved)
• Seasoning - Soy Sauce, Fish Sauce, Lime or Lemon

Tomato (Ratatouille)

• 1-2 cans Chopped Tomatoes or Passata
• 1-2 Courgettes, cubed (cooked for 5 minutes in the stock)
• 1-2 Carrots, cubed (cooked for 5 minutes in the stock)
• Bunch Basil or Oregano (Stalks chopped, leaves reserved) 
• Seasoning - Sugar and Balsamic Vinegar

Tomato (Goulash)

• 1-2 cans Chopped Tomatoes or Passata
• 1-2 Carrots, cubed (cooked for 5 minutes in the stock)
• 1-2 tbsp Paprika
• 1tbsp Caraway Seeds, crushed
• Seasoning - Sugar and Balsamic Vinegar

Method:

1. Roughly chop your vegetables, de-seed and peel if you must - I prefer to keep the peel on unless it's mouldy, more flavour and vitamins. Spread in a roasting tin, scatter over a pinch of salt and pepper and add a splash of water then cover with foil and roast at GM6/200C for 45 minutes.
2. Remove the foil and roast for a further 15-20 minutes until slightly burnt (caramelized) on the edges. Depending on your veg it might be a little under-cooked, which is fine. Just leave them to cool slightly whilst you make the stock.
3. For the stock, tip the cans into a large pan along with 2 cans of water per can.
4. Add the aromatics - spices, herb stalks etc. and put the pan on the hob to heat.
5. As the stock heats sort through the vegetables, removing any tough peel (IE. from pumpkin)* and add to the pan. Bring to a simmer for 10 minutes.
6. Cool for 10 minutes before liquidizing in batches and pushing through a sieve.**
7. Reheat the soup (with any extra vegetables) in a clean pan, taste and season, adding more water if you want.
8. Serve with crusty bread and a dollop of creme fraiche or sour cream, topped with herbs and any other extras you want...

*If your liquidizer is quite sturdy you can just transfer the veg as is without removing the peel or skin.
**I usually add a splash of water to each batch to help things break down, then add the solids back into the stock for a second chance to break down so that I can get the most from them. For the video I ended up with only a ladle's worth of solids, I could have added them to the soup, but I prefer it smooth.

Extras:
Beyond the classic swirl of soured cream or scattering of croutons, there are as many options for toppings as there are for soup...

• Meatballs - make up marble-sized balls from pork, chicken or turkey with matching flavours to the stock. (Or squeeze the meat from sausages like I did) Brown in a small pan whilst you reheat the soup.
• Bacon - cooked and crisp, fabulous crumbled over ANYTHING, really.
• Cooked leftover meat - from a roast or pre-packaged, make sure to heat them through thoroughly. Either in a pan to make them crisp or in the soup for silky bits.
• Vegetable crisps, peanuts or pawn crackers - crunch is always welcome.
• Add a handful of small pasta or cooked rice, even couscous or one of the fashionable grains.
• Crackers - I think it's more of an American thing, but I rather like crumbling a couple of crackers into a bowl.

Character Boxes

Video HERE
This idea had some merit, but it seems that my abilities and tools aren't really up to the job... I intend to revisit and finish at some point next year, but this is what I had originally planned...

You Will Need:
Wood*
Paper, pencil and thick pen
Packing Tape
Glue
Sanding tools
Drill
Craft Knife/Chisels
Pyrography Tool
Acrylic Paint
Varnish

*I'm using pallet wood here, but anything you have will do.

Method: (Obviously you'll need to adapt to whatever you have)

1. Measure your wood and decide on which pieces will be the top, bottom and body of the box, then measure and work out the maximum size you can get from each piece.
2. Draw out this maximum shape on the paper then sketch in the 'character' shape you want. When you're satisfied go over the outline with a thick pen then stick the pattern onto the body wood.
3. Cut around the outline with your scroll saw/bandsaw,whatever...
4. Drill a hole for blade access and cut out the inner piece, leaving at least 1/4" (5mm) in the wall of the box.
5. Sand the inside until smooth then use the box as a template to mark the bottom and top.
6. Cut bottom and top as close to the line as possible then sand top and bottom.
7. Glue the bottom onto the box, then use some double-sided tape to fix the lid in place.
8. Sand the whole box as a block to fit the 'character', cutting and carving back as you like.
9. Add details with a pyrography tool then colour with a wash of acrylic.
10. Sand until smooth, then finish with wax and varnish.

... at least that was what I had planned... I will keep you updated with developments in the new year.

Making a Goldfish Pond Box

Video HERE

I have seen the Youtube videos of a Japanese (I think) artist making bowls of goldfish with layers of resin and paint and I wondered if I could recreate them in the Shed... I think I actually did quite well overall... I will definitely be making more next summer.

It was my intention to make a dragonfly to stick on one of the boxes, but I am yet to make a satisfactory insect - or find a way to make it stick!- so the fourth box remains unfinished.

You will need:
Wooden boxes (fittings removed)*
Stirring Sticks/Popsicle Sticks
Glue
Scissors
Sandpaper
Acrylic paint
Sand
Brushes
Small Pebbles**
Resin
Plastic sheet

*I used this as an opportunity to reinvigorate a number of failed boxes. These were all standard shop-bought boxes, in future I think I will make one to fit.
**I used some leftover pea-gravel, washed and dried then picked through for the better-looking stones.

Method:

1. Cut and glue stirring sticks around the sides of the box, with the top of the stick about 15-20mm (1/2") above the top of the box.* I found it easier to work from near the middle at the back almost all the way around then let the glue dry for a few minutes before cutting and fitting the last few sticks in - it looks better to have 3 sticks slightly thinner than one really thin one. Sand the cut edges as you go.
2. Squidge a splodge of dark coloured paint (brown, blue or green) into the bottom of the pond and spread it around the top of the box and 15-20mm up the sides of the fence before swirling the bulk of the paint to create a raised pattern.**
3. Spoon in some sand and tip the box around to coat all the paint then tip out the excess. Allow to dry COMPLETELY.
4. Paint a wash of acrylic onto the sticks inside and out.
5. Trim back the box and sticks to accommodate hinges. (You can fit them now, but you must put a sheet of plastic between the top and bottom to stop any leaking resin gluing them together - trust me on this!) 
6. Apply a first coat of varnish, once dry lightly rub with sandpaper and tap out any loose sand from the pond base.
7. Wash your pebbles then pick through for any that are nicely rounded or better looking and put them to one side.
8. Mix up a small batch of resin and stir through a couple of handfuls of rough pebbles until well coated. Scoop the pebbles into the pond, arrange them around the edges and up the sides to cover the join. Arrange some of the 'pretty' pebbles on top, pressing into the resin-damp ones so that the tops still look dry.***
9. Quickly mix up another small batch of resin and pour over the base to make an even layer.
10. Wait for 8 hours, or until the resin is set but still tacky. Carefully paint on Layer 1 (see diagram Below)****
11. Mix up another small layer of resin (You will need no more than 1mm thickness) and pour over the top. Wait for 8 hours again then paint the next layer. Continue painting and layering resin until the fish is painted, you can paint 2 layers at a time but try and keep the resin layers even.
12. After the final layer of resin leave everything to set for at least 24 hours - 72 is better.
13. Sand or cut away any leaked resin, then paint the inside and bottom surfaces before varnishing, lining and attaching the fittings.

*I made a template from another stick to make this faster.
**Resist the temptation to make this level and neat. Start with the paint roughly level to the top then press hard with the brush to create a ridge of deep colour with lighter valleys between. The idea with painting up the sides is to seal off any gaps between the sticks - which was only partially successful. You could try a layer of glue, but I find that it can become visible after the resin sets.
***Some of these might end up getting 'wet', but they will eventually create a realistic look of river rock.
****Avoid adding any water to the paint as this slows drying and can affect the resin - this also reduces the risk of beading-up paint on the surface.

I made 4 boxes, but forgot to take any pictures - expecting them to hang around a while for when I was ready - however the 2 other ponds sold at their first opportunity and the 4th is still waiting for its dragonfly so this is the only one I have left... You can see the slight separation of the layers where I added too much resin, but you get the effect. I will definitely be making more in the future, although I will look for some slightly cheaper resin that will mix happily in smaller batches as these don't price-up too well.

The Japanese artist uses 6-8 layers, but for this size I think that 4 is sufficient (and more realistic in terms of size). You cannot erase any mistakes on the resin, so practice on paper until you are confident. Look at pictures online if you're looking for a really accurate image.

Layer 1

• Paint the body as a teardrop, curling round slightly for a more realistic look.
• Use mostly yellow with a touch of white to create the base layer - this needs to be slightly opaque but too much white won't look right overall.
• Paint the tips of the fins and tail, drawing the paint in towards the body - at this stage it doesn't need to touch. Keep the fins light and transparent throughout.

 Layer 2 - ?

• Paint the body just slightly smaller than the first layer with a dark yellow or pale orange.
• Add another layer to the fins, just inside the first, drawing lightly towards the body again.
• You can repeat this layer with gradually darker shades 2-3 more times, or wait a little while for this layer to dry and add another before the next resin coat.
• Add the eyes now, or with Layer 3.

Layer 3

• If you haven't already, draw the fins into the body, this can be a slightly thicker line than before, but not entirely opaque.
• Add a strip of your darkest red or orange along the spine.

Layer 4

• Add a line of highlight/shine along the spine.

You aren't just limited to goldfish here, there are plenty of varieties of fish to choose from - although I suspect a small shark may need more than 4 layers...

Making a Storage Roll

Video HERE

Most crafters have a selection of tools that they use most often, sometimes in drawers, on hooks or scattered around their workspace. This kind of storage roll is ideal for carrying your most used tools in a single package.

This technique can be adapted for almost any set of tools, although the heavier ones would appreciate a leather roll rather than fabric. The sizes required depend on your tools, obviously, so this is a general tutorial more about the technique than actual pattern instructions.

1. Fabric
This depends on your tools, heavy or sharp bladed tools will require a more heavy duty leather, whereas pencils or paintbrushes can be rolled in plain fabrics, although a foam lining comes in handy to protect the bristles of brushes and create the initial shape. Choose a lining and outer layer to suit your needs and taste.

2. Size
Unless your tools are all of the same height (in which case, add 3-4cm (1-1/2")) line them up along the bottom edge of a table with the tallest at either end - this will provide general structural support. Try and keep everything vertical, but you may find that some things fit together better on a slight angle. This way you can also find the length you need as well as the height. Add 3-4cm to the height and 4-5 to the length for the general size.

Once you have the general size you need to add enough for the bottom and top flaps as well as the end section. On average I usually add a bottom flap of 1/3 and a top covering flap of 1/2 to stop things slipping out if the roll is turned upside down (or 2/3 if I'm doubling-up for pockets) and then add 8-10cm (3-4") to the end. This end section acts as a flexible flap which helps to close the roll over bulky tools, and also an extra space for other items that may pop up.

3. Sewing
If you're not adding pockets you need only sew around three sides, leaving one end to turn through, then tuck up your bottom flap, add a strip of elastic in the middle and sew the end closed. If you want pockets, sew on a zip, then sew the bottom and side, before folding out right sides and sewing down the other side of the zip. (You will need to separate this long pocket into 5-7cm sections so that the contents don't clump on one end and stop it rolling.)

The bottom flap creates a secure base for each tool, then lay the elastic over, pinning each section as you go. Ideally, you should leave the tools in place as you fill the roll so that everything fits in neatly. You can machine sew the loops if you like, but I prefer to do them by hand because I can keep the stitches on the inner lining for a better finish.

I use elastic for the strapping and closure because of its flexibility. Don't stretch it over the tools, instead lay it across firmly, quite tight, so that the elastic will stretch for inserting/removing the tools, but will hold when flat and stretch when rolled. You can use ribbon or webbing, but you need to take into account how much room the tool needs.

4. Closure
Not knowing how much my friend would be putting in her roll I left a lot of elastic at the end of the roll, and only fixed the button with a safety pin. Obviously, you can work yours to fit tightly with a button, pres stud or whatever closure you like.

This kind of roll is all right angles and straight lines, so it is easy to sew with a machine or by hand. You can choose the level of difficulty by adding pockets and layers as you like... Next time you're travelling somewhere and you need to carry half your workshop consider putting together a storage roll...

Carrot Cake and Victoria Sponge - Traditional Cake Baking

Video HERE

I regularly receive requests to bake for charity cake sales... this time I decided to go back to basics and do a couple of really traditional bakes that everyone should have in their repertoire.

Carrot Cake

I have already done a video on pumpkin cake, which is fairly similar,  but rather more complicated. This one goes back to basics, and allows for almost in infinite variations. This is an oil-based cake, which means that it is more stable when refrigerated and holds up to being iced and chilled without becoming hard. Traditionally iced with cream cheese frosting - I like it topped with toasted coconut as well, but I like most things with coconut...

Ingredients:
225g Self Raising Flour
1 1/2 tsp Baking Powder
1tbsp Mixed Spice*
1tsp Ground Ginger
175g Caster Sugar
3 Eggs
200ml Oil
1tsp Vanilla Extract
100g Walnut Halves**
100g Sultanas
225g Carrots, grated***

*Not a typo! Any combination of spice works here, but having them pre-blended certainly helps.
**They cost a little more than pieces, obviously, but you're guaranteed at least 12 nice ones for decoration. Otherwise you can still scatter over some chopped nuts - put no more than about 80g in the actual batter or excess oils can cause problems with the bake.
***Carrots, parsnips, or any other root veg will work - most of the time I don't bother to peel them, just give a good scrub and grate coarsely.

Method:

1. Preheat Oven to 180C/Gas Mark 4.
2. Line 2x20-25cm round tins.
3. Mix together the dry ingredients - flour, baking powder, spices and sugar.
4. In a separate bowl beat together the egg, oil and vanilla, then tip into the dry ingredients.
5. Mix until just combined, then add in the nuts, sultanas and carrot.
6. Divide between the tins and spread to level before baking for 35-40 minutes.
7. Cool in the tins for 10-15 minutes before turning out to cool completely.

Filling and Decoration:
3-4tbsp Orange Marmalade (Optional*)
500g Full Fat Cream Cheese (DO NOT GO DIET!)
100g Icing Sugar
1tsp Vanilla Extract
12 Walnut Halves, or about 30g chopped nuts

1. Beat together the cheese, sugar and vanilla (and zest) until light and fluffy - be careful not to over-beat or it will turn watery.
2. Spread the bottom of one cake with marmalade (if using), then about 1/3 of the frosting, pushing it out to about 1/2" (1cm) from the edge in an even layer. Top with the other cake.
3. Spread another 1/3 of the frosting over the top of the cake and decorate with a fork.
4. Spoon the remaining frosting into a piping bag with a star tip and pipe 12 swirls around the outside, then another in the middle.
5. Top each swirl with a walnut half, or scatter over the chopped nuts. Chill for at least 1 hour to help solidify the sandwich.

*If intending to sandwich with marmalade add 1tsp orange zest to the cake mix and 1tsp zest to the frosting to bring it all together.

Victoria Sponge

[No, I didn't burn it! This photo is just rather dark] This is probably the most traditional cake recipe, and it comes with centuries of history and opinion. This recipe and technique is what I consider the classic version (although it uses self-raising flour, which is a relatively new product) - it also works as a basis for microwaved puddings and cupcakes, among other things. If you can make this basic sponge then the sky's the limit... well... I wouldn't reccomend trying it with ostrich eggs.

Ingredients:
Eggs*
Caster Sugar
Butter, softened**
Self Raising Flour
1 tsp Vanilla Extract
Milk

*The sized of your cake depends on the number of eggs you use. 2 eggs will make 1x20cm layer of a sandwich cake or 8-9 cupcakes. In the video I'm using 6 because I'm using up some older eggs - I could have made 3 layers, but I only have 2 tins and leaving this kind of cake to stand before cooking can reduce the rise it gets, which isn't as much of a problem in cupcakes.
**If you're taking it direct from the fridge DO NOT try to soften it in the microwave. Chop the butter into cubes and cover with cold tap water, after 15-20 minutes it should be soft enough to beat with a hand or stand mixer, another 10 minutes should make it easier to work by hand.

Method:

1. Preheat Oven to 180C/Gas Mark 4.
2. Line 2x20-25cm cake tins.
3. Weigh your eggs IN THEIR SHELLS and measure that amount of butter, sugar and flour.
4. Beat together the butter, vanilla  and sugar until light and fluffy - do not skimp on this, you cannot overbeat at this stage.
5. Add the eggs 1 at a time, with a spoonful of flour if you're concerned about it separating.*
6. Sift in the flour, then fold until combined and no lumps of flour remain.
7. Add a little milk to help the mixture to a dropping coinsistency (about 2-3tbsp, stirring after each addition.)
8. Divide between the tins and level the surface then bake for 20-25 minutes.
9. Cool in the tins for 10-15 minutes before turning out.

*A curdled mix isn't the end of the world. It will affect the rise slightly. You can attempt to bring it back by brisquly beating the mixture for a few minutes but I don't think it makes much of a difference in the end.

Fillings and Decoration:
Traditionally a Victoria sponge is filled with jam and buttercream and topped with icing sugar - this is a stable filling which does not need refrigerating unless room temperature is excessive - but I prefer something more luxurious, and the order was for strawberries and cream so I was happy to go with that, although cream needs to be chilled, which can cause a butter-based cake to become hard so it's a balancing act.*

200ml Double Cream
2-3tbsp Icing Sugar
1tsp Vanilla Extract
3-4tbsp Strawberry Jam
About 15 small-ish Strawberries

1. Whip the cream, sugar and vanilla until stiff - don't leave the mixer running whilst you do something else unless you want to make butter. Icing sugar stabilizes the cream and it will set firmer than cream alone once chilled - I prefer to whip the cream then chill for half an hour or so to give the filling more stability during the process of construction.**
2. Spread the bottom of one cake with jam, keeping 1/2" (1cm) from the edge, then top with about 2/3 of the cream.***
3. Press the other cake on top. Spoon the remaining cream into a piping bag with a star tip and pipe 12 smallish swirls around the edge, then a bigger one in the middle.
4. Slice the strawberries 3-4 times from just below the stalk then press to gently fan out the fruit and arrange on top of the swirls.
5. Chill for at least 1 hour for the cream to solidify. Dust with icing sugar to serve.

*This cake was chilled overnight, then taken to school in the morning so I used a long piece of baking paper to create a supportive collar to keep things together throughout the day whilst the cake comes to room temperature. This is a handy thing to do when transporting stacked cakes - although if they're covered in fondant there is less of a need for scaffolding.
**I have very warm hands, which makes piping cream difficult, so a little extra chilling helps to keep things cool during the construction.
***Alternately you could pipe a border on top of the jam and scatter over some sliced strawberries, then spread a little more cream on the bottom of the other cake before sandwiching.

Almost Impossible Puzzles - Part 1

Video HERE

I have a fascination for puzzles - and I have dabbled a bit in the Shed over the last year or so, but this entry is really going to be the start of a series of endeavours to make my own puzzles and puzzle boxes... So, starting with an idea from a commercial puzzle - Usually branded as Impossipuzzles - whereby the puzzle image is a repeating small object (I have seen Smarties, baked beans, penguins etc) and the challenge is not necessarily in recreating the image, but in fitting the pieces together in the correct way. These puzzles must still abide by the standard puzzle rules; there are edges and the pieces all have a generally similar shape with simple interlocking parts (Although I have also seen one which is all edge, pretty much, in a series of concentric frames.)

In both of these designs I have tried to defy convention - to some degree - with a non-connected image and edge-less frames...I won't include the patterns unless you really want me to, these are more of a play on a theme that you can easily draw for yourself. The cutting and finishing was pretty similar for both, with changes in the methods of design...

You Will Need:
A piece of wood - I stuck a few pieces of pallet wood together (although not particularly well, which came back to bite me later) but something around 12"x8" (30x20cm) with at least 1/2" (15mm) thickness should be sufficient*
Pencil, paper, ruler and a fairly thick pen to draw the final design
Glue stick and/or Packing tape (I would suggest both to keep the pattern in place for the duration)
Craft Knife
Scroll Saw (Coping saw or jigsaw if you're really good)
Sandpaper
Acrylic Paints

*You can - and probably should - sand the surface to about 120 grit before you start, or sand each piece individually later.

Method:
For the Wall

1. Measure your wood and calculate how large your bricks can be. I aimed for 3x1.5cm, but as long as they are half as wide as they are tall it should look OK.
2. Draw out a brick pattern on your paper, then work out what shape your pieces will be, a combination of 2,3 and 4-brick pieces is a good idea, but try to avoid having too many of the same shape. Draw around these lines with a thicker pen leaving the outside frame intact.*
3. Glue and tape the pattern to your wood then cut out the pieces.**
4. Glue your entry hole, then put the pieces back into the frame and do any re-sizing that is required - depending on your cut and the size of your blade you may need to skim off a bit of everything to get a comfortable fit that drops out probably a bit too easily. (I avoided that and ended up with a wall that doesn't release easily after painting)
5. Draw in the mortar lines with pencil.
6. CAREFULLY using a craft knife carve the front of the bricks and along the mortar lines. Avoid taking off too much, about 2mm should be enough, then sand all the surfaces to 120 grit.
7. Paint around the edges and into the mortar lines with mortar-coloured acrylic... once that dries sand the edges to 180 grit and make sure the fit is OK - raised grain will make it a little tighter, as will whatever finish you use so bear this in mind.
8. If you want you can paint the back of the pieces in black - not the frame.
9. Put the pieces back into the frame then paint the brick fronts. I used a classic red blended with other colours to create the natural variation of brick - and so that every brick was slightly different, but not glaringly so.
10. Paint with finish - or use spray varnish. For the backing you can either glue on a piece of thin wood or cardboard, I went for thinner card printed with the lyrics to Pink Floyd's 'Another Brick in the Wall'.

For the Splash

1. Begin with a piece of paper the same size as your wood. Take a pencil and randomly swirl and scribble shapes onto the page. Try not to edit things yet, keep it free-flowing until the page is pretty much filled.
2. Now use those lines to create interlocking shapes - do not create a straight edge but anything goes as long as the pieces are no thinner than 1/4" (5-8mm)*** and each piece interlocks with at least 2 others.
3. Glue the pattern onto the wood then cut out the pieces.
4. Fit the pieces together and check the fit.
5. For added texture I used a craft knife to whittle the top of each piece, creating more of a paint drop shape - although I did not sand it smooth.
6. Put the pieces together and decide which colours they will be - going by the 'no colours touching' rule is probably best, but the choice is up to you.
7. Paint on a watered base coat of colour, once dry sand to 120 grit.
8. Paint the top surface of each piece with un-watered acrylic, then the bottoms with black.
9. Apply finish, then position an eye hook and try to lift and shake your puzzle.

*This way there is no standard opening strategy of finding all the edges. You will need to cut in somewhere, or drill a very fine hole for your blade.
**I would suggest being rather relaxed with your cutting here, less even pieces allow for better shape matching later.
***Although if you're using plywood you could go a little thinner.

These are relatively easy ideas that you can expand however you like, and good practice for both angled and curved scroll saw cuts.

Save-A-Life September

As part of my New Year's Resolutions this year I decided that I wanted to 'Be Useful', and part of that is sharing my knowledge and skills beyond the Dragon Shed. I have been a member of an organization which provides First Aid training and cover for events for more than a decade - and a trainer for the last 8 years.

What is taught in official courses is obviously much more in depth and involved, but what I have put together here are the main and most important parts of First Aid.

THIS IS NO REPLACEMENT FOR A FULL EMERGENCY FIRST AID COURSE!

... but it should be enough to prepare you for an emergency.

 Video HERE

The easiest way to remember the process of First Aid is with the acronym DR. ABC. In every situation you should always go back to DR. ABC, if things change then start at the beginning again.

First and most important is D - Danger

Remember to LOOK AFTER YOURSELF FIRST. It sounds like cowardice, but this is a vital part of the safe practice of First Aid.

Danger can take many forms...

• Environment - Inside, outside, night, day, wet, dry, hot or cold. All of these can and do effect how you and the casualty react. Be sure to look all around the scene (ideally from the doorway initially), remember to look up and behind you. If you can identify the cause of the injury is it still a threat to you? Can you remove the threat BEFORE approaching?
• Casualty - Have you identified (and removed or contained) the cause of their injury? Are they likely to hurt you - are they drunk, drugged or acting oddly?
• Yourself - Do you have the necessary skills to make the area safe - do you need more help? Are you actually needed?

If, for any reason, you do not feel comfortable you do not have to approach.

If you do not feel safe you do not have to approach.

If things change and you no longer feel safe you can - and should - step away.

It is much better to have a live witness - who can give information to the authorities - than another casualty for them to deal with.

THIS IS REAL LIFE, NOT THE MOVIES.

Next, R - Response

So, you have checked for danger - and satisfied yourself that it is safe to approach - now you need to yell for help if you know there are people around. That is the second most important of First Aid - make sure it is safe to approach and THEN call for backup. Whether you just need a friend or an ambulance you need a response.

In this day and age you can reach into your back pocket to call for an ambulance - always put it on speaker so that you can relay information whilst you work.

If the cause of the injury is not clear then follow the RULE OF THREE...

1. One casualty, call for help and approach with care.
2. Two casualties, call for help - and make sure it's coming - then approach with caution.
3. Three or more casualties DO NOT APPROACH. Call emergency services and provide them with information from a safe distance.

Recap

D - Danger. Check for dangers to the patient AND yourself. Do what you can to make things safe BEFORE approaching.

R - Response. Call for help. Get a response from someone - you may not need an ambulance, but it is always wise to have an assistant or a witness.

Video HERE

DO NOT attempt to practice this on a healthy person!

This is where DR. ABC really comes into effect.

D - Check for Danger - from the doorway, then continuously as you approach.

R - Call for help. Get out your phone and dial 999. Get a Response from the casualty...

• Yell at them, call their name, tell them to open their eyes. Don't be polite, be assertive.
• Tap them on the shoulder

A - Airway.

• Open the airway by lifting the jaw and tipping the head back.

B - Breathing.

• Bend down close to their mouth, listen and feel for breathing, look along the chest to see it move for 10 SECONDS.
• If they are NOT BREATHING PROPERLY then start compressions.

C - Circulation.

• Call for an AED*
• Place your hands on the centre of the chest and start compressing to the beat of Stayin' Alive or Nelly the Elephant (around 100-120 beats per minute).
• Press down 1/3 of the thickness of the body - depending on your relative size to your patient you may need both hands or just one.
• Keep going. Once you start you cannot stop - if you have an assistant then you can take turns compressing for about 2 minutes each.

We no longer teach lay-people to perform rescue breaths, because in many situations CPR is not started or is stopped because people are worried about or unable to do the breathing part. Unless the casualty has a KNOWN BREATHING PROBLEM (ie. choking or drowning) breaths are not required, the act of compressing the chest also compresses the lungs and provides an adequate circulation of air.

AED

A non-breathing casualty has most likely suffered a heart attack and will need their heart shocking back into rhythm. Most public spaces now have AED (Automated External Defibrillators) available and the staff should be able to bring one to you.

CPR alone will maintain circulation at a base level, but if the heart is not working CPR alone cannot restart it.

CPR and use of an AED within minutes of collapse increases the probability of recovery.

AED's come in many different styles, but all are IDIOT PROOF.

1. Remove the patient's shirt (don't worry about buttons, just tear it off).
2. Someone suffering a heart attack will be sweaty so dry them off with their shirt, or a towel if there's one in the AED.
3. Turn the machine on and DO WHAT IT SAYS!
4. Place the pads on the chest as indicated by the diagrams printed on them.
5. The machine will survey the casualty's condition and IT WILL DECIDE whether a shock is needed.
6. Make sure no one touches the patient whilst the AED is scanning.
7. If the machine decides a shock is needed YOU need to make sure that no one is touching the casualty and YOU press the button.
8. The machine may decided that no shock is needed so continue with compressions, the machine will re-scan after a few minutes.
9. Recovery will take a few seconds to continue compressing the chest until the patient starts to react - then return to DR. ABC to check for changes, a breathing casualty needs to be rolled into the RECOVERY POSITION, with the pads left in place because the machine continues to monitor their condition.
10. If the casualty has started breathing keep an eye on them, check that they are still breathing every 5 minutes - the AED may have restarted their heart but it hasn't solved the underlying issue and they could arrest again.

RECAP

D - Danger
R - Response - from the Casualty and from the Emergency Services.
A - Airway - open the airway by lifting the jaw and tipping back the head.
B - Breathing - are they BREATHING PROPERLY (2-4 breaths per 10 seconds).*
C - Circulation - compress the chest to help push blood around the body.

If they are not breathing properly an ambulance and an AED are required ASAP.

Video HERE

This process you CAN and SHOULD practice on a regular basis. Teach your children as soon as you think they can understand. This technique allows a relatively small person to roll a bruiser without straining.

D - Check for Danger - from the doorway, then continuously as you approach.

R - Call for help. Get out your phone and dial 999 if necessary. Get a Response from the casualty...

• Yell at them, call their name, tell them to open their eyes. Don't be polite, be assertive.
• Tap them on the shoulder

A - Airway.

• Open the airway by lifting the jaw and tipping the head back.

B - Breathing.

• Bend down close to their mouth, listen and feel for breathing, look along the chest to see it move for 10 SECONDS. - Breathing present.

C - Circulation.

• In order to protect the continues circulation of blood and oxygen you need to roll the casualty into the Recovery Position...

Recovery Position

1. Speak to your casualty, they may be able to hear you (you're also telling bystanders what your intentions are.)
2. Lift the casualty's closest arm out of the way.
3. Check the pockets on the nearest side, remove valuables and place in or by the closest arm. Remove glasses.
4. Take the other hand, palm-to-palm and just interlace your fingers enough to hold it (if you lock them tight you risk getting stuck if the casualty comes around.) If they are wearing rings with stones in then just turn them towards the palm.
5. Place the hand against their cheek. (If you are short or have limited reach then you can bring the arm with you as you sort out the leg)
6. Lift the furthest leg by trouser fabric or the outside of the knee until the foot sits flat.
7. Press down on the knee to start the body rolling, catching them on your knees as you shuffle backwards. Unconscious bodies move in stages, first hips, then torso and shoulders so using your knees slows the roll and helps you control everything.
8. Lift the top leg and knee into a right-angle.
9. Make sure the head is supported and tipped back and that the arms are flat on the floor, not pressing on each other.
10. Check that they are still breathing and continue to monitor until help arrives or they recover.
11. If help is delayed then roll the patient onto their other side after 10-15 minutes.

The Recovery Position

• Maintains an open airway.
• Raises the stomach and lowers the mouth so that any vomit is channeled out.
• Stabilizes the casualty for a short period so that help can be fetched.

 Video HERE

DO NOT attempt to practice this on a healthy person!

Choking is a major cause of injury - even death - in both infants and the elderly, however, the treatment for someone who is choking is almost as dangerous as the condition itself. All Emergency First Aid courses include this process as it is one you must NEVER perform on a healthy individual.

It is a simple 5-Step Process...

1. Ask the casualty 'Are you Choking?' - Yes, it seems stupid, but if they are able to give a verbal answer then they are NOT ACTUALLY choking, they have a partial obstruction which could be cleared by stages 2 and 3 without progressing to something more dangerous.
2. Encourage the casualty to COUGH - the first instinct is to gasp in, to get air, forgetting that there is air already in the lungs that could push out the obstruction.
3. Give BACK SLAPS - Supporting the casualty over one arm, slap in an upwards direction between the shoulder blades UP TO 5 times. (If it comes out after 3, stop!)
4. Give ABDOMINAL THRUSTS - position yourself as close as you can behind them, make a fist from your dominant hand with the thumb out, cover with your other hand and pull in and up sharply between the bottom of the ribs and the belly button. UP TO 5 times.*
5. Repeat back slaps and thrusts until the blockage clears of the casualty collapses - then start CPR.

If the casualty has a KNOWN BREATHING PROBLEM - ie. choking or drowning - then you MUST start with 5 rescue breaths before compressions, and attempt 2 more every 30 compressions if you can.

*If you have applied abdominal thrusts to ANYONE, whether the obstruction clears or not, they MUST GO to hospital. You have just mashed their internal organs and possibly done some serious damage, they need to be checked out.

For a child the process is pretty much the same, although you should only use ONE HAND for abdominal thrusts.

For an infant DO NOT PRESS THE ABDOMEN - use chest thrusts instead.

Infant CPR

D - Check for Danger - most likely this is going to be panicky parents. If you can get them to go and make the call for the ambulance, but do not banish them from the room.

R - Call for help. Get out your phone and dial 999 if necessary. Get a Response from the casualty...

• Yell at the baby, tap them on the forehead or feet.

A - Airway.

• Keep the head in a neutral position then listen and watch for breathing.

B - Breathing.

• If the infant is not breathing you need to seal your lips around their MOUTH AND NOSE and give 5 rescue breaths. DO NOT blow hard, small puffs are enough.
  

C - Circulation.

• Compress the chest 1/3 of its thickness with two fingers resting along the middle of the chest. Aim for 120bpm.
• Give 2 breaths to every 30 compressions.

If you are on your own give 2 minutes of CPR before calling for assistance - or ideally, you can carry the infant to the phone whilst giving compressions.

As with all emergency situations, if you forget in the panic the 999/911 controller will talk you through what you need to do.

Video HERE

Some issues with technology here, apologies. When I learn how to import slideshows onto video I may try this again...

The 3 B's of First Aid - being the most common things you will come across.

1. Bleeding

Blood is best on the inside, but when it finds a way out then you need to know how to deal with it.

Basically you need to stop the bleeding, either by applying direct pressure to the wound or raising the bleeding limb or - ideally - both.

NEVER ATTEMPT to remove anything that is in a wound - if the patient has pulled it out DON'T put it back! Try to apply dressings around an object without pushing it further in.

NEVER ATTEMPT to investigate a wound by poking around inside.

PUT NOTHING IN, TAKE NOTHING OUT!

Anything bigger than an inch or so should be seen by a medical professional - not necessarily as an emergency, Walk-In centres will stitch and glue minor wounds. Head wounds and anything of significant or unknown depth should also be seen by a medic. If in doubt, Walk-In.

Animal bites - particularly human - should be professionally cleaned and dressed. Tetanus or other boosters may be required.

2. Burns

A burn can open the body to infection and risks of dehydration, particularly in children. Burns are measured in palms - a casualty's palm is roughly 5% of their surface so this makes for a good comparison of size.

All burns MUST BE cooled with running cool water BEFORE any form of treatment can begin. (Chemical burns may be different, see below)

Superficial - Minor sunburn, irritating but not serious. However, more than 5 palms-worth (20%) will require medical attention. Once cooled in the shower apply a WATER-BASED moisturizer, never oil. Ideally you will be applying sun screen, wearing long sleeves and a hat when out in the sun... As a blonde of Scottish heritage I consider sunburn a self-inflicted injury.

Partial Thickness - Red and blistered - painful! More than 1 palm (5%) will require medical attention, as will any burn that circles a limb - but I suggest that anything bigger than an inch around should be seen by a medic anyway. NEVER pop blisters (medics might have to, but the fluid in a blister protects the skin beneath)

Full Thickness - Blackened with almost no pain. Call for an ambulance immediately, huge risk of infection and dehydration. This MUST go to hospital.

ANY burn on a child MUST go to hospital.

Chemical Burns

With the recent upswing in cases of acid attacks, here are a few tips...

• First pour a little water onto the burn, if there is no increase in reaction then continue to irrigate with as much fresh water as you can.
• Try to pour at an angle away from any undamaged skin and from yourself to avoid spreading the burn.
• After the initial rinse encourage the patient to remove any affected clothing and continue to rinse.
• Do not use chilled water if at all possible - tepid or room temp is better.
• Call for an ambulance as soon as possible.

3. Breaks (Fractures)

A broken bone is not necessarily visible - but if there is a clear deformation of a limb then do not attempt to move it.

They may have heard a crack or have suffered an unusual force. Encourage the patient to flex their limb and note any obvious pain, can they weight-bear, or make a fist, do they have full movement. You do not have X-Ray eyes so if in doubt seek medical advice.

If the bone is visible treat as a wound, but do not attempt to push it back in.

If there is a history of a fall (that is from more than their own knee level), a knock of force or at some speed or a hard landing on the backside you should suspect a spinal injury (particularly if they are complaining of pins and needles or 'strange' sensations) and TREAT FOR THE WORST CASE SCENARIO. Lay them flat if you can, supporting their head.



So that was Save a Life September. I hope you learned something useful, but I also hope that you understand the importance of actually attending a proper First Aid course every 3-5 years. Back to normal service next month.