Sewing Patterns from your Wardrobe!

Video HERE

Drawing up clothing patterns from scratch can be excessively difficult unless you have an understanding of how fabric moves and fits together - to that end I always suggest that you start with items you own first, ones that you know fit well. To begin with I'd start with a simple T-shirt - 3 pieces, no difficult shapes, 1.5-2m of jersey fabric. (Although sewing jersey can be a challenge, this also gives you understanding of how to maintain tension whilst machine sewing, so it's a win-win)

You Will Need:
A T-Shirt (or other simple garment that fits you well - or requiring small changes which you can attempt to challenge yourself)
Tracing paper (I use baking parchment because it comes on a long roll, although craft papers come in wider rolls I find them to be too thick.)
Pencil and/or marker pen
Ruler
Scissors

Method 1 (Old garment that fits, but doesn't have much life left):

1. CAREFULLY dissect the garment into its separate pieces along the sewn lines.
2. Lay each piece onto paper (folding where symmetrical) and trace around with pencil.
3. Draw a 1.5cm sewing allowance and mark where seams and other features go.

Method 2 (Garment you like and would like more of without damaging the original):

1. This goes the same way for each piece. Fold the piece neatly in half - if it's symmetrical - being careful to make sure all the seams are flat.
2. Lay the paper over the top* and slide your fingers over the paper so that you can feel the seams through it. Mark the position of curves every 2-3cm, then join the dots. Use a ruler to mark all straight edges.
3. IF your paper isn't big enough mark where the fabric overflows and by how much, you can add this later. IF your piece fits easily within the paper then move on to stage 5.
4. Cut out your pattern piece - exactly to the shape you have, then stick together a couple of sheets and lay the template over the top. Draw around the template, adding any overflow, then you can discard it.
5. With a pencil/pen and a ruler mark out your seam allowance - usually 1.5cm, then clearly label the piece.**
6. Repeat until all the pattern pieces are made and you're ready to sew.

*You could lay the garment on top of the paper and trace around, but this makes it difficult to get an accurate line for arm holes etc.
**Labels should include;

• Which part it is - back, front, side etc. Be concise now so that when you start making multi-panel shirts you're prepared for centre left, front right, back left etc.
• Which number it is - a T-shirt has only 3 parts (back, front and sleeve), but as above, you need to get into the habit so that when you have an 8-piece pattern you know if you're missing part 3/8.
• Mark the grain of the fabric - essentially which way the knit or weave is running, with velvet or fur you'll need to know which direction the pile is moving in.
• Complex patterns will require notches to mark where sections fit together, or where darts sit.
• ALWAYS mark where the fold goes!

It's actually rather simple - at least this bit is - the real fun comes when you try to use your patterns! See you for that next week!

'Miracle' Microwave Fudge

Video HERE

I think I have mentioned before that I have a really bad history with hot sugar recipes. Many, many batches of fudge, caramel and toffee have failed under my care - despite following recipes to the letter. However, In recent months I have come across a microwavable fudge recipe - that you can adapt to your taste/texture preference - that NEVER fails!

Ingredients: (for 36-ish pieces)
140g Butter, cubed
400g Caster Sugar
390ml Condensed Milk
Pinch of salt (or use salted butter)
1tsp Vanilla*

*Flavour options are entirely up to you. I like rum + raisin, simply heat 2-3 tbsp raisins in 2-3tbsp dark rum then set aside to soak (this can be overnight if you like)

Method - For an 800 Watt Microwave*

1. Put the butter, sugar, milk and salt into the LARGEST GLASS BOWL that will fit in your microwave.
2. Heat on HIGH for 2 minutes at a time, stirring in between until the butter is melted.**
3. Continue to heat on HIGH in 2 minute intervals. CAREFULLY remove from the machine and stir to combine, THEN check the temperature.
4. DO  NOT WALK AWAY! This has a tendency to bubble over so be ready to stop the machine and let things settle back down before continuing.
5. Once the mixture reaches 115C CAREFULLY whisk in the flavouring - it will spit.
6. Heat once more for 2 minutes on HIGH. Stir, then leave to stand for 5 minutes.
7. Beat with a wooden spoon (or a beater attachment) until slightly cooled, lighter in colour and no longer shiny.
8. Tip into a lined and greased 8" square pan and tap to level (or press into the corners with a spatula) Leave to set.
9. After about an hour you can lift the fudge from the tin and cut into squares.

*You will need to adapt cooking times according to your machine. I have a 700 Watt so I start with 3 minute blasts, then drop to 2 minutes when things start to get bubbly.
**I always scrape off my spatula in the same place to reduce the amount of sticky mess later.

Variations of Texture.

1. The method above will give you a creamy traditional fudge.
2. To make a crystalline, crisp 'Tablet' style fudge don't beat the fudge, just tip directly into the pan and leave to cool.
3. For a soft, paste-like fudge don't re-nuke after adding the flavouring, but beat for 5 minutes. This will need longer to cool before cutting - once it reaches room temp chill in the freezer for 20 minutes to firm it up for cutting. Store separated by greaseproof paper in the fridge or you'll end up with a big fudgy mass. This is ideal for a cake filling, just nuke gently to help it spread without dragging crumbs.