Making a Goldfish Pond Box

Video HERE

I have seen the Youtube videos of a Japanese (I think) artist making bowls of goldfish with layers of resin and paint and I wondered if I could recreate them in the Shed... I think I actually did quite well overall... I will definitely be making more next summer.

It was my intention to make a dragonfly to stick on one of the boxes, but I am yet to make a satisfactory insect - or find a way to make it stick!- so the fourth box remains unfinished.

You will need:
Wooden boxes (fittings removed)*
Stirring Sticks/Popsicle Sticks
Glue
Scissors
Sandpaper
Acrylic paint
Sand
Brushes
Small Pebbles**
Resin
Plastic sheet

*I used this as an opportunity to reinvigorate a number of failed boxes. These were all standard shop-bought boxes, in future I think I will make one to fit.
**I used some leftover pea-gravel, washed and dried then picked through for the better-looking stones.

Method:

1. Cut and glue stirring sticks around the sides of the box, with the top of the stick about 15-20mm (1/2") above the top of the box.* I found it easier to work from near the middle at the back almost all the way around then let the glue dry for a few minutes before cutting and fitting the last few sticks in - it looks better to have 3 sticks slightly thinner than one really thin one. Sand the cut edges as you go.
2. Squidge a splodge of dark coloured paint (brown, blue or green) into the bottom of the pond and spread it around the top of the box and 15-20mm up the sides of the fence before swirling the bulk of the paint to create a raised pattern.**
3. Spoon in some sand and tip the box around to coat all the paint then tip out the excess. Allow to dry COMPLETELY.
4. Paint a wash of acrylic onto the sticks inside and out.
5. Trim back the box and sticks to accommodate hinges. (You can fit them now, but you must put a sheet of plastic between the top and bottom to stop any leaking resin gluing them together - trust me on this!) 
6. Apply a first coat of varnish, once dry lightly rub with sandpaper and tap out any loose sand from the pond base.
7. Wash your pebbles then pick through for any that are nicely rounded or better looking and put them to one side.
8. Mix up a small batch of resin and stir through a couple of handfuls of rough pebbles until well coated. Scoop the pebbles into the pond, arrange them around the edges and up the sides to cover the join. Arrange some of the 'pretty' pebbles on top, pressing into the resin-damp ones so that the tops still look dry.***
9. Quickly mix up another small batch of resin and pour over the base to make an even layer.
10. Wait for 8 hours, or until the resin is set but still tacky. Carefully paint on Layer 1 (see diagram Below)****
11. Mix up another small layer of resin (You will need no more than 1mm thickness) and pour over the top. Wait for 8 hours again then paint the next layer. Continue painting and layering resin until the fish is painted, you can paint 2 layers at a time but try and keep the resin layers even.
12. After the final layer of resin leave everything to set for at least 24 hours - 72 is better.
13. Sand or cut away any leaked resin, then paint the inside and bottom surfaces before varnishing, lining and attaching the fittings.

*I made a template from another stick to make this faster.
**Resist the temptation to make this level and neat. Start with the paint roughly level to the top then press hard with the brush to create a ridge of deep colour with lighter valleys between. The idea with painting up the sides is to seal off any gaps between the sticks - which was only partially successful. You could try a layer of glue, but I find that it can become visible after the resin sets.
***Some of these might end up getting 'wet', but they will eventually create a realistic look of river rock.
****Avoid adding any water to the paint as this slows drying and can affect the resin - this also reduces the risk of beading-up paint on the surface.

I made 4 boxes, but forgot to take any pictures - expecting them to hang around a while for when I was ready - however the 2 other ponds sold at their first opportunity and the 4th is still waiting for its dragonfly so this is the only one I have left... You can see the slight separation of the layers where I added too much resin, but you get the effect. I will definitely be making more in the future, although I will look for some slightly cheaper resin that will mix happily in smaller batches as these don't price-up too well.

The Japanese artist uses 6-8 layers, but for this size I think that 4 is sufficient (and more realistic in terms of size). You cannot erase any mistakes on the resin, so practice on paper until you are confident. Look at pictures online if you're looking for a really accurate image.

Layer 1

• Paint the body as a teardrop, curling round slightly for a more realistic look.
• Use mostly yellow with a touch of white to create the base layer - this needs to be slightly opaque but too much white won't look right overall.
• Paint the tips of the fins and tail, drawing the paint in towards the body - at this stage it doesn't need to touch. Keep the fins light and transparent throughout.

 Layer 2 - ?

• Paint the body just slightly smaller than the first layer with a dark yellow or pale orange.
• Add another layer to the fins, just inside the first, drawing lightly towards the body again.
• You can repeat this layer with gradually darker shades 2-3 more times, or wait a little while for this layer to dry and add another before the next resin coat.
• Add the eyes now, or with Layer 3.

Layer 3

• If you haven't already, draw the fins into the body, this can be a slightly thicker line than before, but not entirely opaque.
• Add a strip of your darkest red or orange along the spine.

Layer 4

• Add a line of highlight/shine along the spine.

You aren't just limited to goldfish here, there are plenty of varieties of fish to choose from - although I suspect a small shark may need more than 4 layers...

Making a Storage Roll

Video HERE

Most crafters have a selection of tools that they use most often, sometimes in drawers, on hooks or scattered around their workspace. This kind of storage roll is ideal for carrying your most used tools in a single package.

This technique can be adapted for almost any set of tools, although the heavier ones would appreciate a leather roll rather than fabric. The sizes required depend on your tools, obviously, so this is a general tutorial more about the technique than actual pattern instructions.

1. Fabric
This depends on your tools, heavy or sharp bladed tools will require a more heavy duty leather, whereas pencils or paintbrushes can be rolled in plain fabrics, although a foam lining comes in handy to protect the bristles of brushes and create the initial shape. Choose a lining and outer layer to suit your needs and taste.

2. Size
Unless your tools are all of the same height (in which case, add 3-4cm (1-1/2")) line them up along the bottom edge of a table with the tallest at either end - this will provide general structural support. Try and keep everything vertical, but you may find that some things fit together better on a slight angle. This way you can also find the length you need as well as the height. Add 3-4cm to the height and 4-5 to the length for the general size.

Once you have the general size you need to add enough for the bottom and top flaps as well as the end section. On average I usually add a bottom flap of 1/3 and a top covering flap of 1/2 to stop things slipping out if the roll is turned upside down (or 2/3 if I'm doubling-up for pockets) and then add 8-10cm (3-4") to the end. This end section acts as a flexible flap which helps to close the roll over bulky tools, and also an extra space for other items that may pop up.

3. Sewing
If you're not adding pockets you need only sew around three sides, leaving one end to turn through, then tuck up your bottom flap, add a strip of elastic in the middle and sew the end closed. If you want pockets, sew on a zip, then sew the bottom and side, before folding out right sides and sewing down the other side of the zip. (You will need to separate this long pocket into 5-7cm sections so that the contents don't clump on one end and stop it rolling.)

The bottom flap creates a secure base for each tool, then lay the elastic over, pinning each section as you go. Ideally, you should leave the tools in place as you fill the roll so that everything fits in neatly. You can machine sew the loops if you like, but I prefer to do them by hand because I can keep the stitches on the inner lining for a better finish.

I use elastic for the strapping and closure because of its flexibility. Don't stretch it over the tools, instead lay it across firmly, quite tight, so that the elastic will stretch for inserting/removing the tools, but will hold when flat and stretch when rolled. You can use ribbon or webbing, but you need to take into account how much room the tool needs.

4. Closure
Not knowing how much my friend would be putting in her roll I left a lot of elastic at the end of the roll, and only fixed the button with a safety pin. Obviously, you can work yours to fit tightly with a button, pres stud or whatever closure you like.

This kind of roll is all right angles and straight lines, so it is easy to sew with a machine or by hand. You can choose the level of difficulty by adding pockets and layers as you like... Next time you're travelling somewhere and you need to carry half your workshop consider putting together a storage roll...

Carrot Cake and Victoria Sponge - Traditional Cake Baking

Video HERE

I regularly receive requests to bake for charity cake sales... this time I decided to go back to basics and do a couple of really traditional bakes that everyone should have in their repertoire.

Carrot Cake

I have already done a video on pumpkin cake, which is fairly similar,  but rather more complicated. This one goes back to basics, and allows for almost in infinite variations. This is an oil-based cake, which means that it is more stable when refrigerated and holds up to being iced and chilled without becoming hard. Traditionally iced with cream cheese frosting - I like it topped with toasted coconut as well, but I like most things with coconut...

Ingredients:
225g Self Raising Flour
1 1/2 tsp Baking Powder
1tbsp Mixed Spice*
1tsp Ground Ginger
175g Caster Sugar
3 Eggs
200ml Oil
1tsp Vanilla Extract
100g Walnut Halves**
100g Sultanas
225g Carrots, grated***

*Not a typo! Any combination of spice works here, but having them pre-blended certainly helps.
**They cost a little more than pieces, obviously, but you're guaranteed at least 12 nice ones for decoration. Otherwise you can still scatter over some chopped nuts - put no more than about 80g in the actual batter or excess oils can cause problems with the bake.
***Carrots, parsnips, or any other root veg will work - most of the time I don't bother to peel them, just give a good scrub and grate coarsely.

Method:

1. Preheat Oven to 180C/Gas Mark 4.
2. Line 2x20-25cm round tins.
3. Mix together the dry ingredients - flour, baking powder, spices and sugar.
4. In a separate bowl beat together the egg, oil and vanilla, then tip into the dry ingredients.
5. Mix until just combined, then add in the nuts, sultanas and carrot.
6. Divide between the tins and spread to level before baking for 35-40 minutes.
7. Cool in the tins for 10-15 minutes before turning out to cool completely.

Filling and Decoration:
3-4tbsp Orange Marmalade (Optional*)
500g Full Fat Cream Cheese (DO NOT GO DIET!)
100g Icing Sugar
1tsp Vanilla Extract
12 Walnut Halves, or about 30g chopped nuts

1. Beat together the cheese, sugar and vanilla (and zest) until light and fluffy - be careful not to over-beat or it will turn watery.
2. Spread the bottom of one cake with marmalade (if using), then about 1/3 of the frosting, pushing it out to about 1/2" (1cm) from the edge in an even layer. Top with the other cake.
3. Spread another 1/3 of the frosting over the top of the cake and decorate with a fork.
4. Spoon the remaining frosting into a piping bag with a star tip and pipe 12 swirls around the outside, then another in the middle.
5. Top each swirl with a walnut half, or scatter over the chopped nuts. Chill for at least 1 hour to help solidify the sandwich.

*If intending to sandwich with marmalade add 1tsp orange zest to the cake mix and 1tsp zest to the frosting to bring it all together.

Victoria Sponge

[No, I didn't burn it! This photo is just rather dark] This is probably the most traditional cake recipe, and it comes with centuries of history and opinion. This recipe and technique is what I consider the classic version (although it uses self-raising flour, which is a relatively new product) - it also works as a basis for microwaved puddings and cupcakes, among other things. If you can make this basic sponge then the sky's the limit... well... I wouldn't reccomend trying it with ostrich eggs.

Ingredients:
Eggs*
Caster Sugar
Butter, softened**
Self Raising Flour
1 tsp Vanilla Extract
Milk

*The sized of your cake depends on the number of eggs you use. 2 eggs will make 1x20cm layer of a sandwich cake or 8-9 cupcakes. In the video I'm using 6 because I'm using up some older eggs - I could have made 3 layers, but I only have 2 tins and leaving this kind of cake to stand before cooking can reduce the rise it gets, which isn't as much of a problem in cupcakes.
**If you're taking it direct from the fridge DO NOT try to soften it in the microwave. Chop the butter into cubes and cover with cold tap water, after 15-20 minutes it should be soft enough to beat with a hand or stand mixer, another 10 minutes should make it easier to work by hand.

Method:

1. Preheat Oven to 180C/Gas Mark 4.
2. Line 2x20-25cm cake tins.
3. Weigh your eggs IN THEIR SHELLS and measure that amount of butter, sugar and flour.
4. Beat together the butter, vanilla  and sugar until light and fluffy - do not skimp on this, you cannot overbeat at this stage.
5. Add the eggs 1 at a time, with a spoonful of flour if you're concerned about it separating.*
6. Sift in the flour, then fold until combined and no lumps of flour remain.
7. Add a little milk to help the mixture to a dropping coinsistency (about 2-3tbsp, stirring after each addition.)
8. Divide between the tins and level the surface then bake for 20-25 minutes.
9. Cool in the tins for 10-15 minutes before turning out.

*A curdled mix isn't the end of the world. It will affect the rise slightly. You can attempt to bring it back by brisquly beating the mixture for a few minutes but I don't think it makes much of a difference in the end.

Fillings and Decoration:
Traditionally a Victoria sponge is filled with jam and buttercream and topped with icing sugar - this is a stable filling which does not need refrigerating unless room temperature is excessive - but I prefer something more luxurious, and the order was for strawberries and cream so I was happy to go with that, although cream needs to be chilled, which can cause a butter-based cake to become hard so it's a balancing act.*

200ml Double Cream
2-3tbsp Icing Sugar
1tsp Vanilla Extract
3-4tbsp Strawberry Jam
About 15 small-ish Strawberries

1. Whip the cream, sugar and vanilla until stiff - don't leave the mixer running whilst you do something else unless you want to make butter. Icing sugar stabilizes the cream and it will set firmer than cream alone once chilled - I prefer to whip the cream then chill for half an hour or so to give the filling more stability during the process of construction.**
2. Spread the bottom of one cake with jam, keeping 1/2" (1cm) from the edge, then top with about 2/3 of the cream.***
3. Press the other cake on top. Spoon the remaining cream into a piping bag with a star tip and pipe 12 smallish swirls around the edge, then a bigger one in the middle.
4. Slice the strawberries 3-4 times from just below the stalk then press to gently fan out the fruit and arrange on top of the swirls.
5. Chill for at least 1 hour for the cream to solidify. Dust with icing sugar to serve.

*This cake was chilled overnight, then taken to school in the morning so I used a long piece of baking paper to create a supportive collar to keep things together throughout the day whilst the cake comes to room temperature. This is a handy thing to do when transporting stacked cakes - although if they're covered in fondant there is less of a need for scaffolding.
**I have very warm hands, which makes piping cream difficult, so a little extra chilling helps to keep things cool during the construction.
***Alternately you could pipe a border on top of the jam and scatter over some sliced strawberries, then spread a little more cream on the bottom of the other cake before sandwiching.

Almost Impossible Puzzles - Part 1

Video HERE

I have a fascination for puzzles - and I have dabbled a bit in the Shed over the last year or so, but this entry is really going to be the start of a series of endeavours to make my own puzzles and puzzle boxes... So, starting with an idea from a commercial puzzle - Usually branded as Impossipuzzles - whereby the puzzle image is a repeating small object (I have seen Smarties, baked beans, penguins etc) and the challenge is not necessarily in recreating the image, but in fitting the pieces together in the correct way. These puzzles must still abide by the standard puzzle rules; there are edges and the pieces all have a generally similar shape with simple interlocking parts (Although I have also seen one which is all edge, pretty much, in a series of concentric frames.)

In both of these designs I have tried to defy convention - to some degree - with a non-connected image and edge-less frames...I won't include the patterns unless you really want me to, these are more of a play on a theme that you can easily draw for yourself. The cutting and finishing was pretty similar for both, with changes in the methods of design...

You Will Need:
A piece of wood - I stuck a few pieces of pallet wood together (although not particularly well, which came back to bite me later) but something around 12"x8" (30x20cm) with at least 1/2" (15mm) thickness should be sufficient*
Pencil, paper, ruler and a fairly thick pen to draw the final design
Glue stick and/or Packing tape (I would suggest both to keep the pattern in place for the duration)
Craft Knife
Scroll Saw (Coping saw or jigsaw if you're really good)
Sandpaper
Acrylic Paints

*You can - and probably should - sand the surface to about 120 grit before you start, or sand each piece individually later.

Method:
For the Wall

1. Measure your wood and calculate how large your bricks can be. I aimed for 3x1.5cm, but as long as they are half as wide as they are tall it should look OK.
2. Draw out a brick pattern on your paper, then work out what shape your pieces will be, a combination of 2,3 and 4-brick pieces is a good idea, but try to avoid having too many of the same shape. Draw around these lines with a thicker pen leaving the outside frame intact.*
3. Glue and tape the pattern to your wood then cut out the pieces.**
4. Glue your entry hole, then put the pieces back into the frame and do any re-sizing that is required - depending on your cut and the size of your blade you may need to skim off a bit of everything to get a comfortable fit that drops out probably a bit too easily. (I avoided that and ended up with a wall that doesn't release easily after painting)
5. Draw in the mortar lines with pencil.
6. CAREFULLY using a craft knife carve the front of the bricks and along the mortar lines. Avoid taking off too much, about 2mm should be enough, then sand all the surfaces to 120 grit.
7. Paint around the edges and into the mortar lines with mortar-coloured acrylic... once that dries sand the edges to 180 grit and make sure the fit is OK - raised grain will make it a little tighter, as will whatever finish you use so bear this in mind.
8. If you want you can paint the back of the pieces in black - not the frame.
9. Put the pieces back into the frame then paint the brick fronts. I used a classic red blended with other colours to create the natural variation of brick - and so that every brick was slightly different, but not glaringly so.
10. Paint with finish - or use spray varnish. For the backing you can either glue on a piece of thin wood or cardboard, I went for thinner card printed with the lyrics to Pink Floyd's 'Another Brick in the Wall'.

For the Splash

1. Begin with a piece of paper the same size as your wood. Take a pencil and randomly swirl and scribble shapes onto the page. Try not to edit things yet, keep it free-flowing until the page is pretty much filled.
2. Now use those lines to create interlocking shapes - do not create a straight edge but anything goes as long as the pieces are no thinner than 1/4" (5-8mm)*** and each piece interlocks with at least 2 others.
3. Glue the pattern onto the wood then cut out the pieces.
4. Fit the pieces together and check the fit.
5. For added texture I used a craft knife to whittle the top of each piece, creating more of a paint drop shape - although I did not sand it smooth.
6. Put the pieces together and decide which colours they will be - going by the 'no colours touching' rule is probably best, but the choice is up to you.
7. Paint on a watered base coat of colour, once dry sand to 120 grit.
8. Paint the top surface of each piece with un-watered acrylic, then the bottoms with black.
9. Apply finish, then position an eye hook and try to lift and shake your puzzle.

*This way there is no standard opening strategy of finding all the edges. You will need to cut in somewhere, or drill a very fine hole for your blade.
**I would suggest being rather relaxed with your cutting here, less even pieces allow for better shape matching later.
***Although if you're using plywood you could go a little thinner.

These are relatively easy ideas that you can expand however you like, and good practice for both angled and curved scroll saw cuts.